Do I need any suspension components for Teraflex 1 inch leveling kit?

[Elgin]

Do I need a front track bar or LCA etc...
1 inch leveling spacer should be fine for the long run, right?

Thank you!

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[BennieD]

You don’t need anything. You are good up to 2 inch lift

 

[Outback_Joe]

Like BennieD said your all good up to 2".

Just did a 1.5 Teraflex level kit and its all good. Seems to drive just a bit better.

 

[Elgin]

Like BennieD said your all good up to 2".

Just did a 1.5 Teraflex level kit and its all good. Seems to drive just a bit better.

Thank you. Is it ok for a long run? Because I saw Clayton offers 1.5 inch lift kit and including new LCA and track bar etc. I wonder is it something I should consider about? Also I read on forum people who went with AEV 2inch spacer lift normally also added geo bracket or new LCA.

 

[Elgin]

You don’t need anything. You are good up to 2 inch lift

No need a new track bar for 2 inch? Thank you!

 

[Outback_Joe]

Thank you. Is it ok for a long run? Because I saw Clayton offers 1.5 inch lift kit and including new LCA and track bar etc. I wonder is it something I should consider about? Also I read on forum people who went with AEV 2inch spacer lift normally also added geo bracket or new LCA.

I have about 2K on the leveling kit and I don't see any abnormal tire wear. I do some long range trips because of where I live. A trip to a good grocery store is 100 miles one way on some not so great roads. So, so far so good. You can always add a new lower track bar later. I am running 35" K2 tires.

 

[Elgin]

I have about 2K on the leveling kit and I don't see any abnormal tire wear. I do some long range trips because of where I live. A trip to a good grocery store is 100 miles one way on some not so great roads. So, so far so good. You can always add a new lower track bar later. I am running 35" K2 tires.

I think we have the same set up. I have a JTR and I run Toyo AT3 315/70/17. Did you lift the trunk or just 1.5 leveling kit in the front? Does it level the trunk? I think you have a metal bumper as well, did it drag the front height a bit?

 

[MudderNuker]

If you are ok with your axle shifting to the passenger side by about an inch or more then you don't need anything. I did a 1.5 TF and my axle shifted to the passenger side and it was very noticeable. But I am a nit picker. I took care of that with an adjustable track bar. To minimize impact from the small lift, I added TF shock extension brackets and longer sway bar links in addition to the TB. Your geometry is changed and that is a fact. I added a metal bumper and winch and the front dropped a bit. I might add an additional 1/2 inch spacer to compensate. If I do that, I have JKS Geo brackets to return the control arms to within factory specs. If you lift, the axle will respond accordingly. The axle will shift to the side and backwards. Granted the shifts are minimal but will happen. You may be able to get away with just the lift pucks but who ever owns that JT in the future will deal with steering issues and DW due to not being done right.

 

[Outback_Joe]

I think we have the same set up. I have a JTR and I run Toyo AT3 315/70/17. Did you lift the trunk or just 1.5 leveling kit in the front? Does it level the trunk? I think you have a metal bumper as well, did it drag the front height a bit?

Yes it sounds like we have about the same truck setup. I have a good quality metal bumper with a 12K Smitty Built winch so the leveling kit got the front end back up to about the stock height. It was really rubbing the tires on a locked right turn until the leveling kit was installed. As far as the front axle shifting to one side, I can't see or measure it. If it was shifted, I would be correcting it. The only thing that changed is that the truck looks and measures level. Hope this helps.

 

[SnazzGlad]

Adjustable track bar a pretty easy install? I did my shocks, JTR springs, TF front spacer and Daystar rear. My axle is a tad bit off buts it’s barely noticeable and drives fine.

 

[MudderNuker]

This is how much my axle shifted to the passenger side. Look at the upper photo and you will notice that none of the tire contact area is visible just the side thread. On the lower photo you can see about an inch of the contact area and the side thread. I took this pictures best I could and tried to get the same angle for both sides. The driver's side tire is completely tucked in under the fender.

 

[Elgin]

This is how much my axle shifted to the passenger side. Look at the upper photo and you will notice that none of the tire contact area is visible just the side thread. On the lower photo you can see about an inch of the contact area and the side thread. I took this pictures best I could and tried to get the same angle for both sides. The driver's side tire is completely tucked in under the fender.

This is helpful. I know that Clayton offers Ride Right lift kit that includes adjustable LCAs. Also they offer overland kit that offers 8 full control arms. I wonder If I am doing a full 1.5 inch lift in the future, do I really need the full 8 control arms?

 

[Elgin]

Yes it sounds like we have about the same truck setup. I have a good quality metal bumper with a 12K Smitty Built winch so the leveling kit got the front end back up to about the stock height. It was really rubbing the tires on a locked right turn until the leveling kit was installed. As far as the front axle shifting to one side, I can't see or measure it. If it was shifted, I would be correcting it. The only thing that changed is that the truck looks and measures level. Hope this helps.

Thank you! Another question, I know that Clayton offers Ride Right lift kit that includes adjustable LCAs. Also they offer overland kit that offers 8 full control arms. I wonder If I am doing a full 1.5 inch lift in the future, do I really need the full 8 control arms?

 

[Elgin]

If you are ok with your axle shifting to the passenger side by about an inch or more then you don't need anything. I did a 1.5 TF and my axle shifted to the passenger side and it was very noticeable. But I am a nit picker. I took care of that with an adjustable track bar. To minimize impact from the small lift, I added TF shock extension brackets and longer sway bar links in addition to the TB. Your geometry is changed and that is a fact. I added a metal bumper and winch and the front dropped a bit. I might add an additional 1/2 inch spacer to compensate. If I do that, I have JKS Geo brackets to return the control arms to within factory specs. If you lift, the axle will respond accordingly. The axle will shift to the side and backwards. Granted the shifts are minimal but will happen. You may be able to get away with just the lift pucks but who ever owns that JT in the future will deal with steering issues and DW due to not being done right.

I can relate and I think we are the same type of person. I am planning to go with Clayton 1.5 inch lift kit step by step. I know that Clayton offers Ride Right lift kit that includes adjustable LCAs. Also they offer overland kit that offers 8 full control arms. I wonder If I am doing a full 1.5 inch lift in the future, do I really need the full 8 control arms? Do you have any thoughts?

 

[MudderNuker]

This is helpful. I know that Clayton offers Ride Right lift kit that includes adjustable LCAs. Also they offer overland kit that offers 8 full control arms. I wonder If I am doing a full 1.5 inch lift in the future, do I really need the full 8 control arms?

Honestly, for a 1.5 front and back lift you might be good with just the track bars. Perhaps the MOPAR 2" lower front LCAs.

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