Advice Needed….. Frame Paint color……….

[RK Racing]

Quick question……. “””Frame paint””” spray can color???? Rustoleum satin black is way too shiny and Rustoleum flat black is too flat…….Does anyone have any advice for which spray can color is a good match up for the frame? Thank you!

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[Alpine Warthog]

Uhhh, I find the the color dirt is pretty effective at color matching.....

I kid, I kid You're trying to match the factory? I'm not sure that's even a paint. I had my entire rig undercoated so It's entirely the same color of shiny ...

 

[Dougstdig]

I'd go satin. Once the dirt and road spray have there way with it will blend in. While you watch assorted install videos you'll notice how shiny or new looking the paint is on units that are new and how flat the finish looks on units that have had a bit of living. It's normal. So My vote is satin.

 

[Gvsukids]

Quick question……. “””Frame paint””” spray can color???? Rustoleum satin black is way too shiny and Rustoleum flat black is too flat…….Does anyone have any advice for which spray can color is a good match up for the frame? Thank you!

Why?

 

[RK Racing]

Why?

Because I have lots of raw frame exposed from removing all the factory welded on brackets to the frame….. doesn’t everyone go through this while installing simple lift kit?

 

[OVERLORD]

Spritzco High Density EV Repellent Barbecue Paint is the closest match I've found.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

VHT SP652 satin black epoxy spray paint. I used that stuff on all chassis parts among other parts. It's on the door locks of my Eagle and has held up to keys and weather, it's touched up the parts under my JT, I keep a couple of cans on hand at all times.

 

[Dougstdig]

Because I have lots of raw frame exposed from removing all the factory welded on brackets to the frame….. doesn’t everyone go through this while installing simple lift kit?

Haven't gotten around to lifting my JTRD yet, but on my previous jeeps and a friends...Nope. Everything has been pretty much bolt on.

I've see YT'ers pull out flap discs to clean up ugly factory welds. In my mind, I see material being removed in addition to sprag. Inevitably, how every minute, frame material is removed. This just gives me the hebe-gebies.

 

[staying_tuned]

If it’s down to metal anyhow I’d go Por15 and forget about it forever. Matches, bulletproof and you’ll have less areas to babysit for rust.

 

[chorky]

Because I have lots of raw frame exposed from removing all the factory welded on brackets to the frame….. doesn’t everyone go through this while installing simple lift kit?

Uh....what did you remove and what lift are you using. I dont know of anyone here that had to go through this unless they're using a super fancy and expensive coil over system.

If it’s down to metal anyhow I’d go Por15 and forget about it forever. Matches, bulletproof and you’ll have less areas to babysit for rust.

POR15 is super hard stuff, but it also cracks easy - problem with it is cracks lets water in, then the frame rusts under the paint but because the paint is so tough you will never know. Eastwood rust encapsulator paint has a similar effect. After using it on my OBS 7.3 I won't ever use that stuff again. Better to just use a standard chassis paint and a top coat of rust inhibitor like HD Metal Protect or something instead.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Uh....what did you remove and what lift are you using. I dont know of anyone here that had to go through this unless they're using a super fancy and expensive coil over system.



POR15 is super hard stuff, but it also cracks easy - problem with it is cracks lets water in, then the frame rusts under the paint but because the paint is so tough you will never know. Eastwood rust encapsulator paint has a similar effect. After using it on my OBS 7.3 I won't ever use that stuff again. Better to just use a standard chassis paint and a top coat of rust inhibitor like HD Metal Protect or something instead.

I don't use encapsulators - I use converters. tannin based products literally convert the rust to an inert substance but you need to top coat it.
Historical preservationists use it on wrought iron and other things out in the weather constantly. I've used many bottles and spray cans of it in my work, including auto body work. Remove as much loose rust as possible, sand where possible, treat, let sit 24 hours, paint. Rust won't return. it's not just surrounded by a capsule of crap, it's converted so it's not even rust any more.
I used it on my 82 back in about 2012 because coming from northern California, after sitting in the sun for 10 years, there was no paint left on horizontal surfaces but a lot of "patina" - surface rust. I sanded, treated, primed and painted. I do the same on things I paint for restoration.
If I see any rust on something like my JT or my cars, I treat the rust to convert it, and repaint. It's good until another chip exposes raw steel and then I do that area.

 

[chorky]

Yeah rust converters are the best option for existing rust. I was speaking more to the OP on pre-rust treatment to prevent it in the first place though. I used that encapsulator in the past for the first time not having any experience with it prior to see how well it would work since I didn't, at the time, really want to go through the process of converting rust. But I was very disappointed in the results. Preventing it in the first place is best.

 

[staying_tuned]

POR15 is super hard stuff, but it also cracks easy - problem with it is cracks lets water in, then the frame rusts under the paint but because the paint is so tough you will never know. Eastwood rust encapsulator paint has a similar effect. After using it on my OBS 7.3 I won't ever use that stuff again. Better to just use a standard chassis paint and a top coat of rust inhibitor like HD Metal Protect or something instead.

Have you tried Por15? Eastwood's encapsulator is gimmicky, not surprised you've swore it off. Any pics of actual Por15 cracking? I've never heard of this and I've been using it for nearly 20 years. It's a converter. I've heard plenty of complaints about encapsulator though.

 

[MPMB]

I've see YT'ers pull out flap discs to clean up ugly factory welds. In my mind, I see material being removed in addition to sprag. Inevitably, how every minute, frame material is removed. This just gives me the hebe-gebies.

Funny story... some OCD genius decides to build a dragster and to appease his OCD, justified through "better aerodynamics and weight savings" (maybe), he ground down all the welds so it looked like the entire frame was one piece of tubing.

First time on the track, pops a wheelie, and the frame shatters like an icicle on pavement.

 

[RK Racing]

Uh....what did you remove and what lift are you using. I dont know of anyone here that had to go through this unless they're using a super fancy and expensive coil over system.



POR15 is super hard stuff, but it also cracks easy - problem with it is cracks lets water in, then the frame rusts under the paint but because the paint is so tough you will never know. Eastwood rust encapsulator paint has a similar effect. After using it on my OBS 7.3 I won't ever use that stuff again. Better to just use a standard chassis paint and a top coat of rust inhibitor like HD Metal Protect or something instead.

Teraflex long arm…..

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