Jumperless aux battery/PCR bypass

[CrazyCooter]

And to an IT person that can mean Auto stop/start NOT

So I guess "Avengers logo" is easier to spell than ESS error or service ESS ? LOL

I could never figure out why people in one of my other hobbies keeps saying "I can't get my dizzy clamp loose" or call a engine part a "dizzy". Must be an internet thing.
Just call it a bloody distributor! What's up with this "dizzy" bit - can't spell a complex word?
The only 'dizzy' in that car is the driver.

First thing that popped in my head when I read "Avenger" logo was the Auto Start/Stop error logo, so it worked!

I think all the code speak mumbo jumbo has something to do with wanting to sound important knowing what they are talking about or fit in on the forums.

I get it all the time here at the shop when people start rattling of funky acronyms they get from the internet forums and I have to ask what it is they are actually saying. I'm not a geeked out internet yota guy, so I have no idea what you are talking about!

I do this for real every day and just know how to diagnose and repair them which is what's important right? I got nothing to prove at this stage of my life or career!

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[jebiruph]

After removing the negative cable, and pulling the fuse, no errors. Recently I've begun to get the Avengers logo. Changed main battery and was good for a day, but now the Avenger logo pops up after a few minutes of driving.

If it's popping up while you're driving, you might be having an engine related problem that's disabling auto stop/start.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If it's popping up while you're driving, you might be having an engine related problem that's disabling auto stop/start.

Exactly. That's why I keep saying the ESS system is a great monitor of other things going on. It relies on other systems being just right. If there's a failure of those other components, it will disable ESS with a warning.
It's not necessarily the ESS - gotta keep repeating that. An ESS problem isn't always an ESS problem. Can be a number of things.

 

[Killroy Was Here]

And to an IT person that can mean Auto stop/start NOT

So I guess "Avengers logo" is easier to spell than ESS error or service ESS ? LOL

I could never figure out why people in one of my other hobbies keeps saying "I can't get my dizzy clamp loose" or call a engine part a "dizzy". Must be an internet thing.
Just call it a bloody distributor! What's up with this "dizzy" bit - can't spell a complex word?
The only 'dizzy' in that car is the driver.

They call ignition distributors "dizzies" in Australia, & New Zealand.

 

[Great Offender]

when I read "Avenger" logo

When I read Avenger logo I thought about it for a minute and then honestly laughed by myself. In code they call that LOL I couldn't help it ...

 

[Rocksalt]

removed F42 fuse , disconnected aux neg cable ladt year. Avenger light always on. No issues.
And... ESS system should more accurately be called ASS.. as it is the Auto Start System

 

[chorky]

Exactly. That's why I keep saying the ESS system is a great monitor of other things going on. It relies on other systems being just right. If there's a failure of those other components, it will disable ESS with a warning.
It's not necessarily the ESS - gotta keep repeating that. An ESS problem isn't always an ESS problem. Can be a number of things.

Ok I'll bite - what other systems could the ESS light potentially point to that doesn't throw its own code? Aside from bad batteries....

 

[ShadowsPapa]

They call ignition distributors "dizzies" in Australia, & New Zealand.

Yeah, but they also drive on the wrong side of the road, drive utes, don't speak English, and so on. (tongue-in-cheek, of course)

These were educated (cough-cough) Americans.

 

[jebiruph]

Ok I'll bite - what other systems could the ESS light potentially point to that doesn't throw its own code? Aside from bad batteries....

For me it was engine misfires. ESS is disabled before the threshold is reached to turn on the check engine light.

 

[Gvsukids]

I'm probably the only one out of 10,000 - but I have no idea what an "Avengers logo" is.
I mean, my Jeep has all the Jeep stuff, but no cartoon or movie characters I'm aware of other than the duck mode switch.

Ok, it's the @! again.

Exactly. That's why I keep saying the ESS system is a great monitor of other things going on. It relies on other systems being just right. If there's a failure of those other components, it will disable ESS with a warning.
It's not necessarily the ESS - gotta keep repeating that. An ESS problem isn't always an ESS problem. Can be a number of things.

And now that the light has gone away, it's also true what you said in a previous post that it will clear itself after a few restarts. Too bad it can't give you a readout on why it's acting up.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

For me it was engine misfires. ESS is disabled before the threshold is reached to turn on the check engine light.

Misfires you may not feel, and that don't set the light in the case of mine with only 80 miles on it.
Then after some restarts, it was fine.
It's impossible to say exactly what's causing it at any given time without some - here's that word again - TROUBLESHOOTING - diagnosing, using tools to figure it out.

It seems to me that people seem to think that modern vehicles are more simple in that when there's an error light, there's 1 or 2 reasons and that if Joe has a light (or a misfire) that Sam can do the same thing to fix his.
Heck, that's never been true of cars and trucks.

So when there's an error - get out your diagnostic tools and systematically figure it out with troubleshooting/diagnostic techniques.
And that may even include putting your phone in the phone mount and running JSCAN or AlfaOBD to catch things in the act.

I often laugh when I see "I have a misfire, how did you fix yours?" as if it's really that easy.
I have an ESS not ready (or ESS error light) - how did you fix yours?

There are over a dozen and a half things that system monitors before saying "all good, I'll go ahead and function".
Some, like misfires, aren't in that list because it's a given that engine "running issues" will prevent ESS.
The list I talk of is catalytic converter temperatures out of range, starter temperature, ABS event present, Battery health state of function greater than 40 ah, and other factors.
(That last one can be off because the IBS wasn't reset with new batteries, or things have gotten out of synch by BLIND charging - charging below the IBS and not THROUGH the IBS)

Things not in that list but that can still cause ESS and error light issues include ground points on the back of the engine, one mentioned is a bolt in the rear of the head with a capacitor. There's a TSB for some of that.

 

[mikeviv18]

Yep.

Any issues or lights on the dash?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Any issues or lights on the dash?

No.

 

[GingerBeard995]

Hi everyone. I just wanted to potentially get some feedback from owners that have done this Jumperless AUX battery / PCR bypass.

Some time has gone by now and this means of bypassing the AUX battery has grown quite a bit in popularity. So much so that it is one of the most common pieces of advice that many Wrangler JL and Gladiator JT owners give to new Jeep owners to avoid any unnecessary headaches down the road. I've read through all 9 pages of this thread. The general consensus appears to be that if the bypass is done correctly then there shouldn't be any warning lights, "avengers" lights / ESS warnings. And if there is, it also doesn't necessarily mean there are any issues with the bypass but rather a number of other possibilities.

So I guess simply put. To those of you who have bypassed the AUX battery with decent or even newer main batteries, has everything been operating normal? I would think yes but if so, how long has everyone been driving their Gladiators since doing the bypass?

Reason for asking is that I just recently purchased a 2021 Gladiator and did the jumperless bypass myself. No issues as of yet. Though I've only driven it a handful of times around the block since then. And that's only because of some issues with transferring registration when purchased the truck from another state. That's a long story though and probably more suited for it's own thread. BUT the truck will be on the road soon for regular day to day use here in the Northeastern U.S.

My wife has a 2019 Wrangler that we've owned for a little over 3 years now. It has the 2.0 engine and the battery is still going strong (unsure if it's the original). If others have been using the bypass for awhile without issue and my truck goes without issue as well, I'll definitely be doing the bypass to my wife's Wrangler. Probably sooner rather than later.

But would love to hear some feedback from owners after doing the bypass themselves!

Thanks everyone!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Some time has gone by now and this means of bypassing the AUX battery has grown quite a bit in popularity. So much so that it is one of the most common pieces of advice that many Wrangler JL and Gladiator JT owners give to new Jeep owners to avoid any unnecessary headaches down the road.

"perceived" headaches down the road. Like so many things, it has a life of its own.

As far as impact on anything - there won't really be any. Why would there be?
My recommendation is to swap out the crank battery with the largest you can fit in there, the highest capacity/CCA, if you intend on allowing ESS to work after the bypass.
Even if you didn't, i still would recommend after about 3 years to do a battery swap. Some go a lot farther on the original batteries, but Jeep doesn't have a great history with their batteries.
Even in the 4xe with ONLY the main 12v battery, people complain that they don't last long at all (and there's no aux battery with those, proving that as often as not, the main battery goes first)

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