Auto stop, worst idea ever just got worse.

[SeaSharp]

I had the Genesis dual battery system installed on mine (the newer one) which removes that aux battery and I installed a Tazer. The Tazer remembers whatever you set a setting to like auto start / stop or traction control. After I installed the Tazer I pressed the auto stop/start button to turn that *feature* off and haven't pressed it again. It remains off with the Tazer.

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[Lost1wing]

To all reading this post and are wondering why some have problems and some don't, bad batteries could be a problem for some and driving habits could be another problem.

Is it really a bad battery?

Just think about a 2020 sitting in a lot just waiting to be sold. Months go by and the battery is dead. Do you think the dealer will just toss in a new battery? Do you think the dealer will take the time to fully charge the batteries and reset the IBS? How about those that were waiting for their HPFP or clutch recall to get resolved at the dealer? You may have had a completely dead battery at one point. The dealer didn't put a new set in for you. They charged it up and sent you on your way.

Of course there may be other issues going on. The batteries still need to be checked before anything else.

 

[bucolic]

And if you don't drive it almost daily, and/or if your drives are short, you're not keeping the batteries up full. If it sits over a few days, or if you only drive 10 miles in a trip, you need to consider a battery minder/battery tender type device to keep them full.

Just curious if you hook a battery tender up to the main battery, does it keep both batteries topped off?

 

[Mr._Bill]

Just curious if you hook a battery tender up to the main battery, does it keep both batteries topped off?

Yes, it does. Connect to the nuts on top, not directly to the battery posts.

 

[Lost1wing]

Just curious if you hook a battery tender up to the main battery, does it keep both batteries topped off?

Short answer is yes.

When you separate the grounds, you can charge them independently and each battery can achieve their full potential. If you have a damaged battery you will never know. But that would still be a better idea than jumping the Jeep off and going for a drive.

 

[Flyboy2109]

Hey, now we got through hate of ESS and stalk mounted hi/lo beams that I dislike, too; let's try try another saddle sore that wears on me. (oh, and I I never minded changing that floor switch, sure was easier than disassembly of a steering column) Now let's rag in the placement of the emergency flasher switch in the stick shift JT. I tag that with a middle knuckle often! And it isn't a case of sasquatch hands either, my 5' 2" wife does it also. Having the flashers come on is a distraction. Somebody will run off the road or run a red eventually figuring out why the flashers suddenly came on.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

(oh, and I I never minded changing that floor switch, sure was easier than disassembly of a steering column)

The dimmer switch is held onto the outside of the steering column activated by a rod in older vehicles. The ignition switch bolts to one side, the dimmer on the other side.
It's only in later years they made it more complex. If they went back to the system of the 1980s and 90s, it would be about as easy as a floor switch.
Try living in places where salt is used in the winter and not being able to get rusted bolts out of the floor to remove the switch and then fighting oxidized connectors to disconnect the floor dimmer. They just plain sucked in places like where I live. Don't know anyone around here who misses them

These were a ton easier than floor switches -

The dimmer switch was on the column until about 1927 then moved to the floor as the floor was pretty wide open. So it was only on the floor for about 50 years.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just curious if you hook a battery tender up to the main battery, does it keep both batteries topped off?

Yes, as Bill said. Best to do independently when possible but a tender on the main battery can do both.
Also as mentioned - be sure to connect above - to the top of the IBS and not to the battery negative post directly.

 

[OldSarge]

Thanks to everyone for the help, and it's definitely not due to lack of driving, It's very rare I don't drive into the city every day and that's 35 miles round trip at least. As for the people complaining about me trashing the system, I hate these fucking bullshit things even if they aren't technically "failing" I don't believe for a second they make a bit of difference to the environment and even if they have a slight effect they are so annoying I don't care, if that makes me a monster so be it.

My hero. ?

 

[Flyboy2109]

When i lived in Utah-Salt Lake City salt was part of life in the winter, That is why most of us undercoated and maintained that undercoating which saved the bolts through the floor-dimmer, seat belts, seat mounts. Remember Ziebart? You choose to deal with your environment or you choose to let your vehicle rust away. My JT sits in a carport in Hawaii. Everything corrodes in place. Therefore, easy access to change stuff-like a dimmer-would be nice instead of having it all on stalks. Easy access to Aux batt would be nice. What? Pulling the electric panel under the hood with potential damage or going in through the wheel well is great design for something a person will seem to be checking or replacing regularly? Maybe this battery should be under the rear bed with an access door like a '36 LaSalle had a golf club door? Good selling item to brag about if done right. Instead we end up bitchin' about it. I will guess that most of us bought our JT without even knowing there was an aux batt to deal with.

This is '88 Chrysler GTS versus AMC Pacer/Chevy Monza stuff: Chrysler made sure in design that the spark plugs, oil filter, ect., were easy access. The Monza had to have the engine mounts disconnected and the engine jacked to change plugs, The Pacer, good luck finding any maintenance items without pulling the engine. Manufacturers seem to have forgotten that easy access maintenance items and brilliant engineering sells vehicles, just like full sized spare wells in the '04 CTS-V are a selling point even if they only stock a mini donut there-I can chose to install a full size spare, MY choice. (and I did)

 

[Lost1wing]

Hey, now we got through hate of ESS and stalk mounted hi/lo beams that I dislike, too; let's try try another saddle sore that wears on me. (oh, and I I never minded changing that floor switch, sure was easier than disassembly of a steering column) Now let's rag in the placement of the emergency flasher switch in the stick shift JT. I tag that with a middle knuckle often! And it isn't a case of sasquatch hands either, my 5' 2" wife does it also. Having the flashers come on is a distraction. Somebody will run off the road or run a red eventually figuring out why the flashers suddenly came on.

How many 5' 2" wives are out there? Hahaha ? My wife claims 5'2" but really 5' 1½"

 

[ShadowsPapa]

When i lived in Utah-Salt Lake City salt was part of life in the winter, That is why most of us undercoated and maintained that undercoating which saved the bolts through the floor-dimmer, seat belts, seat mounts. Remember Ziebart? You choose to deal with your environment or you choose to let your vehicle rust away.

LOL - do I remember Ziebart? LOL

Yeah, that's one of my cars before repaint and restoration. (I'm still trying to find someone who can duplicate those decals or knows of how to get any new ones - that's the one thing I'm missing for the door areas)

The problem in our areas was people getting in with snow or wet on your shoes or boots and using the dimmer. Even kicking it off the shoe before getting in isn't a total help. Your foot is still wet.
The carpet got wet, salty, and held the wet against the switch. It's a problem I grew up with - getting my first car at age 14 in the early 70s. And being a mechanic in the 70s, I also dealt with all of the troubles of the floor mounted dimmer. It was a big thing. Everyone stocked dimmer switches.
It's not the underside one had to think about - that was just part of it. When you track in that snow and salt and sand, it corrodes stuff. Corrosion/oxidation had perfect environments with damp dirt or carpet or floor mats, with any type of chlorides used.
You can't totally avoid it. I lived it. I can't even count the numbers of dimmer switches replaced - however, on the column, I bet I can count on one hand.
Working in restorations for the last decades, I've seen more treated and untreated vehicles in great detail than most. And corrosion of the floor pans and anything connected to it is one of the bigger problems, even with protection on the bottom. I could post a lot of detailed pictures but that's not what this is really about...........

 

[ShadowsPapa]

How many 5' 2" wives are out there? Hahaha ? My wife claims 5'2" but really 5' 1½"

That's too funny as that's exactly the case with my first wife. She told people 5'2" but her brothers kept correcting her - her younger brother being over 6'.
We gave her a pass, though, because of her naturally curly hair made her look 5'2".

 

[Flyboy2109]

How many 5' 2" wives are out there? Hahaha ? My wife claims 5'2" but really 5' 1½"

Yes, actually! They always round up.

 

[Jabtano]

I agree it is the single most annoying thing on my rig.

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