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Rock Krawler drag link hits flipped stabilizer.

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Pilsner

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I love the aluminum but I HATE jam nuts. Sadly switched from an aluminum TR & DL to a Synergy setup. Perfect. The hardened chrome Molly steel tie rod will be just fine. Adjust it once and forget about it.

You are not wrong. The jam nuts are hard to get tight enough to stay.
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You are not wrong. The jam nuts are hard to get tight enough to stay.
Never had issues once I used 2 18 inch adjustable wrenches honestly. More annoying to adjust everything but once I got it all tightened up I've been pretty secure.
 

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Up until a week ago, I was running a setup similar to yours except with the synergy trackbar bolt relocation... this setup took care of almost all contact with my Stabilizer... coming off of a ledge while turning still caused minor contact (just enough to take paint off of the stabilizer) ... you might want to consider what I just did ... drag link flip and trackbar relocation (switched to a synergy drag link and used the synergy relocation bracket) ... if you do this, know that the max backspacing for the flipped dl is 4.75 and that the lower mount points for the swaybar links is raised about 2.5 inches ... and finally this is only good if you are running at least 3 inch of bump stop .... with those caveats, my steering components finally have breathing room!

Jeep Gladiator Rock Krawler drag link hits flipped stabilizer. 17079498196045059276994887168677
 

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For the ones that are having trouble with the jam nuts backing off on the aluminum stuff check out the ninja washers from apex steering.
 

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Well damnit, no luck. The Synergy mount gives me exactly the same travel as the modified Clayton bracket. I have a bunch of leftover 3/16" plate left, so I think I'm going to take some measurements and relocate the mount a little higher or lower to miss the drag link. I was hoping it was a quick bolt on fix, but it looks like I should just have made a bracket when I first found the issue.

Jeep Gladiator Rock Krawler drag link hits flipped stabilizer. 20240214_181438
 
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Up until a week ago, I was running a setup similar to yours except with the synergy trackbar bolt relocation... this setup took care of almost all contact with my Stabilizer... coming off of a ledge while turning still caused minor contact (just enough to take paint off of the stabilizer) ... you might want to consider what I just did ... drag link flip and trackbar relocation (switched to a synergy drag link and used the synergy relocation bracket) ... if you do this, know that the max backspacing for the flipped dl is 4.75 and that the lower mount points for the swaybar links is raised about 2.5 inches ... and finally this is only good if you are running at least 3 inch of bump stop .... with those caveats, my steering components finally have breathing room!

17079498196045059276994887168677.jpg
I am trying to avoid that at this point as I've already spent a lot of time and money to fix my loose steering. The drag link rod end on my stock bar was toast. I made a couple prototype brackets and have settled on one that I think will work. I need to mount it all up and make sure it clears when flexing. I'll post up measurements when I'm done so other people can make one. I'm trying to keep it super simple so you don't need to weld or bend steel.
 
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Finally got it all to fit. I didn't want to bend or weld, but it just didn't fit without it. It has plenty of clearance even at full steering lock and as much flex as I could test at home. I would have preferred keeping the axle end of the mount more level with the tie rod, but there just isn't room. That's at full lock where the angle is most extreme though, so I think it will be ok. Drives great.

Jeep Gladiator Rock Krawler drag link hits flipped stabilizer. 20240218_135419


Jeep Gladiator Rock Krawler drag link hits flipped stabilizer. 20240218_140545
 

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Do you think this will this work with Fox ATS stabilizer?

It should fit with the stock drag link and tie rod. The aluminum drag link like I used doesn't have a bend in the bar, just an offset end, so it has reduced clearance where the stabilizer relocation bracket mounts.
 

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I have the Steer Smarts Yeti Tie Ride, Drag Link, Track Bar and Fox ATS Stabilizer. I also currently have the Steer Smarts Stabilizer relocation bracket (similar to this) but this ine look a lit more heavy duty, so I would consider switching to it ..
 
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Up until a week ago, I was running a setup similar to yours except with the synergy trackbar bolt relocation... this setup took care of almost all contact with my Stabilizer... coming off of a ledge while turning still caused minor contact (just enough to take paint off of the stabilizer) ... you might want to consider what I just did ... drag link flip and trackbar relocation (switched to a synergy drag link and used the synergy relocation bracket) ... if you do this, know that the max backspacing for the flipped dl is 4.75 and that the lower mount points for the swaybar links is raised about 2.5 inches ... and finally this is only good if you are running at least 3 inch of bump stop .... with those caveats, my steering components finally have breathing room!

17079498196045059276994887168677.jpg

Out of curiosity, where was the minor contact you still had with that setup?
 
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Pilsner

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I have the Steer Smarts Yeti Tie Ride, Drag Link, Track Bar and Fox ATS Stabilizer. I also currently have the Steer Smarts Stabilizer relocation bracket (similar to this) but this ine look a lit more heavy duty, so I would consider switching to it ..

Hard to say with other parts. Honestly, I believe double shear mounts for the stabilizer are way overkill anyway. I have not heard of the Synergy and Teraflex track bar mounting bolt extensions fail. There just isn't the same force on those as the drag link and tie rods themselves. I ended up using some 1/4" steel for the mounting plate I made and I am not worried about it. Will update after some hard wheeling, but it just won't see the same stress as the rest of the steering components as the stabilizer yields to force.
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