Alu-Cab Canopy Camper Roll Call

[DR.]

How are folks mounting their shower cube? Alu-cab makes a bracket that brings the shower cube parallel with the main part of the camper but I think I've seen some photos of the cube mounted directly to the camper with no bracket. This could potentially be less wind turbulence but would cause the cube wall to rest more against the vehicle. Photos would be great if possible.

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[cug]

Hey folks, me again with a request for help …

If you have a GP-Factor table on the inside of your camper door (the big table), could get me a side close-up photo of the rubber bumpers the table closes against?

I’m trying to determine whether the bumpers we have are too long …

 

[mquetel]

Hey folks, me again with a request for help …

If you have a GP-Factor table on the inside of your camper door (the big table), could get me a side close-up photo of the rubber bumpers the table closes against?

I’m trying to determine whether the bumpers we have are too long …

 

[cug]

Awesome, thank you.

It looks like the rubber is flush with the stainless and the stainless is perfectly flush with the mounting plate. No rubber squeezed between stainless and mounting plate.

We have the mounting brackets loose and need to rivet them to our own backing plate, but the bumpers are sticking out of the back of the stainless bracket by maybe 2mm or so. If I just rivet that on, that’ll create issues. I could trim them a bit, but they are the ones GP-Factor uses, so I’m wondering where the problem is. I don’t think the mounting plate is drilled out behind them.

Do the bumpers come out or are they tight in there?

Working on this right now.

 

[mquetel]

Awesome, thank you.

It looks like the rubber is flush with the stainless and the stainless is perfectly flush with the mounting plate. No rubber squeezed between stainless and mounting plate.

We have the mounting brackets loose and need to rivet them to our own backing plate, but the bumpers are sticking out of the back of the stainless bracket by maybe 2mm or so. If I just rivet that on, that’ll create issues. I could trim them a bit, but they are the ones GP-Factor uses, so I’m wondering where the problem is. I don’t think the mounting plate is drilled out behind them.

Do the bumpers come out or are they tight in there?

Working on this right now.

I installed the table myself and did not need to mount the table portion to the backing plate… it came out of the box already riveted. Doesn’t seem right to me.

 

[mquetel]

I installed the table myself and did not need to mount the table portion to the backing plate… it came out of the box already riveted. Doesn’t seem right to me.

Also, my backing plate was powder coated black. Have to assume there was a hole drilled in the plate for the bumper… which is fixed in place and not moveable.

 

[cug]

I installed the table myself and did not need to mount the table portion to the backing plate… it came out of the box already riveted. Doesn’t seem right to me.

It’s perfectly right since we bought the parts from GP-Factor and it’s our own backing plate. We wanted the table to sit lower, since it’ll be our main cooking station and the truck is relatively high.

So, I’m trying to recover from my own stubborn decision to build my own mount. GP-Factor didn’t mention a drilled out hole behind:

So those bumpers usually sit flush due to the backer being on the table assembly. I would take them off and trip them down a bit then rivet them on

 

[cug]

Also, my backing plate was powder coated black. Have to assume there was a hole drilled in the plate for the bumper… which is fixed in place and not moveable.

You were correct with your assumption (I thought the same, but just couldn't read this from GP-Factors response to my question about it). Here's a shot from a Grenadier install:

It clearly shows the cutout for the bumper. Okay. On to riveting this beast to the mounting plate.

 

[mquetel]

It’s perfectly right since we bought the parts from GP-Factor and it’s our own backing plate. We wanted the table to sit lower, since it’ll be our main cooking station and the truck is relatively high.

So, I’m trying to recover from my own stubborn decision to build my own mount. GP-Factor didn’t mention a drilled out hole behind:

You were correct with your assumption (I thought the same, but just couldn't read this from GP-Factors response to my question about it). Here's a shot from a Grenadier install:

It clearly shows the cutout for the bumper. Okay. On to riveting this beast to the mounting plate.

Glad you found confirmation. How much lower will your table be vs the stock mount?

 

[cug]

Glad you found confirmation. How much lower will your table be vs the stock mount?

I don't know where the original is mounted, but I believe the mounting panel leaves the lower area of the door open, the one that goes across the whole door and is maybe three to four inches high. When you look at the mounting brackets of the table, the lower four rivets land at the upper end of that area. Our mounting plate attaches to the lowest extrusion channel.

My estimate is that the table sits about four inches lower than original.

 

[mquetel]

I don't know where the original is mounted, but I believe the mounting panel leaves the lower area of the door open, the one that goes across the whole door and is maybe three to four inches high. When you look at the mounting brackets of the table, the lower four rivets land at the upper end of that area. Our mounting plate attaches to the lowest extrusion channel.

My estimate is that the table sits about four inches lower than original.

You have a newer style door. Mine, ordered in late spring of 2022 does not have any t-slot. But it looks like your estimate is realistic.

 

[cug]

But it looks like your estimate is realistic.

Given what I see in your picture, our's is about 3.5 inches lower. The lower edge of the mounting bracket is 48mm (just under two inches) from the bottom of the door, while your's seem to sit at 5.5 inches.

 

[1983SheepDog]

Alu-Cab Diesel Heater Install: Just completed this install and now I have nice hot forced air heat! FYI, these heaters cost less than $150. My JT is diesel so any fuel I carry has two uses.
Cheers!

@dvaders, sorry for digging this post back up but I recently bought a JT with an ACCC and I'd like to build out a diesel setup the same way as you. Can you tell me if the piece that mounts the air vent is 3D printed? If so, can you share the STL? Love how clean the whole install is. Thanks!

 

[dvaders]

@1983SheepDog - hey SD, I don’t have the laptop with the stl at the moment but if you remind me after the 15th I may be able to find it.

 

[1983SheepDog]

@1983SheepDog - hey SD, I don’t have the laptop with the stl at the moment but if you remind me after the 15th I may be able to find it.

Will do. I'll PM you after the 15th!

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