Death wobble on New 2022 Gladiator Sport S

[JTGuy]

Having all the bolts tight is important. Especially the ones that hold the stabalizer on.

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[Murdoc319]

Update on mine.. I'm convinced the dealer did not actually check the torque on anything. There are either no socket marks on some of the nuts or the security / paint markings are still all lined up, like on the ball joints. I assume by 'checking everything', they did some visual / feel tests. I checked the frame side track bar bolt for 110ft lbs of torque and it took a little bit of torque. This bolt has not been touched from the factory, to my knowledge.

I pulled the track bar and found wear on the nut side of the frame bushing inner sleeve and head side of the axle bushing inner sleeve. The bolt holes seem enlarged on the matching side of the brackets. One of these bolts (axle side) was removed ~ 2k miles and replaced / re-torqued to 110 ft lbs, the other was never removed. the Mopar 2" LCAs had been installed, there are ~1" pucks on the front coils. Either the bolts were loose from the factory or the slight misalignment of the axle from the leveling kit loosened them up. You could argue the axle side bolt wasn't re-torqued right when it was removed but I don't have reason to believe that, I always check torque twice and there is wear on both bolts, arguably more on the frame side.

Even with just a leveling kit, I decided to throw on a synergy trackbar, good quality but installe was a PITA - the brackets were super tight. I'm assuming the wear on the OEM bar either caused the DW issue I was having or was damaged by it.

My next question is do I get those holes repaired? I had a JKS track bar on my JK and had decently wallowed holes after ~8 years. Never had DW and eventually put weld washers in. I don't want to trash the track bar by having wallowed out holes but if they're not super egged out, does it even matter given the clamping force should be securing the joint?

PS I tightened both bolts to 52ft lbs + 115 degrees and then rechecked them on the 110ft lbs setting and the torque wrench went off immediately. 110ft lbs is likely less than 52ft lbs + 115 degrees and definitely suggests that frame bolt was loose if it took torque at 110ft lbs setting. I would be putting probably 125ft lbs on it if I had a regular torque wrench vs the 110ft lbs that comes on the mopar lift instructions. That was the torque on the JK and I thought they were the same bolt specs, not sure why the lighter torque setting is issued on the mopar lift instructions, wonder if that's an error and leading to some of the issues people are seeing.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Update on mine.. I'm convinced the dealer did not actually check the torque on anything. There are either no socket marks on some of the nuts or the security / paint markings are still all lined up, like on the ball joints. I assume by 'checking everything', they did some visual / feel tests. I checked the frame side track bar bolt for 110ft lbs of torque and it took a little bit of torque. This bolt has not been touched from the factory, to my knowledge.

I pulled the track bar and found wear on the nut side of the frame bushing inner sleeve and head side of the axle bushing inner sleeve. The bolt holes seem enlarged on the matching side of the brackets. One of these bolts (axle side) was removed ~ 2k miles and replaced / re-torqued to 110 ft lbs, the other was never removed. the Mopar 2" LCAs had been installed, there are ~1" pucks on the front coils. Either the bolts were loose from the factory or the slight misalignment of the axle from the leveling kit loosened them up. You could argue the frame side bolt wasn't re-torqued right when it was removed but I don't have reason to believe that, I always check torque twice and there is wear on both bolts, arguably more on the frame side.

Even with just a leveling kit, I decided to throw on a synergy trackbar, good quality but installe was a PITA - the brackets were super tight. I'm assuming the wear on the OEM bar either caused the DW issue I was having or was damaged by it.

My next question is do I get those holes repaired? I had a JKS track bar on my JK and had decently wallowed holes after ~8 years. Never had DW and eventually put weld washers in. I don't want to trash the track bar by having wallowed out holes but if they're not super egged out, does it even matter given the clamping force should be securing the joint?

PS I tightened both bolts to 52ft lbs + 115 degrees and then rechecked them on the 110ft lbs setting and the torque wrench went off immediately. 110ft lbs is likely less than 52ft lbs + 115 degrees and definitely suggests that frame bolt was loose if it took torque at 110ft lbs setting. I would be putting probably 125ft lbs on it if I had a regular torque wrench vs the 110ft lbs that comes on the mopar lift instructions. That was the torque on the JK and I thought they were the same bolt specs, not sure why the lighter torque setting is issued on the mopar lift instructions, wonder if that's an error and leading to some of the issues people are seeing.

It’s a common misconception that the bolt holes need to be perfect. They don’t. These connections rely on clamping force. It does not have to be a pressed or tight fit.

 

[j._y.sr]

Update on mine, dealer had it for a week, said they went through everything and found play in the steering box, replaced it.
I’m grateful they went through all the steering components and an alignment and did not stop at the steering stabilizer.
A little concerned they didn’t replace the stabilizer and that the root cause may still be out there
I’ve heard some stock ball joints may have a defect that is not detectable by the standard prybar method, debating changing these out proactively with an all metal version

good for you on that
I have a 20 JT sport - stock, been having issues starting about 8k miles, dealer replaced the stabilizer, then at 10k replaced it again saying that it was defective, replaced it one more time at about 13k, each time it did stop the wobble for a bit, I asked about an updated gear box and the service writer said nope we have to start with the SS first, I said you did 3 times, went no where, took it in for my last "free service" at about 16k and told them the wobble is still there, service writer said its now out of the 3 yr warranty so anything they do now will be out of pocket, basically got the big finger up the back side, got 19k on it now, only drive about 5 miles to work so I take side streets, sucks too cause the Grandkids really like riding in it but dont think its safe to take them anywhere in it

 

[Murdoc319]

good for you on that
I have a 20 JT sport - stock, been having issues starting about 8k miles, dealer replaced the stabilizer, then at 10k replaced it again saying that it was defective, replaced it one more time at about 13k, each time it did stop the wobble for a bit, I asked about an updated gear box and the service writer said nope we have to start with the SS first, I said you did 3 times, went no where, took it in for my last "free service" at about 16k and told them the wobble is still there, service writer said its now out of the 3 yr warranty so anything they do now will be out of pocket, basically got the big finger up the back side, got 19k on it now, only drive about 5 miles to work so I take side streets, sucks too cause the Grandkids really like riding in it but dont think its safe to take them anywhere in it

Sorry to hear that! It’s frustrating when they take it back, hold it, and then stonewall you when you ask questions- hard to feel like you’re getting any service.

 

[j._y.sr]

update on mine, got the fox stabilizer that some had posted on here, installed and seems to be good, but I still pucker when I hit the spots that have consistently caused the wobble, I see some call the SS a band aid but it seems to be keeping the blood in for now, been looking at adjustable lower arms for caster adjustment but all I see have heims joints instead of rubber ends, do they not make adjustable arms with rubber ends? just curious in case I go that route

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