Advice on Camber Spec.

[TheGreenBackGorilla]

2021 JT Rubicon DIESEL. I did a 1.5" Terraflex in the front, and 3/4" daystar puck in the rear. Kept factory everything else. And have recently gone from 33's to 35's. Much smoother ride and love it. My question is, I asked for an alignment at the tire shop, they say did not need one. The only thing was my front driver, and front passenger camber is -1.3 and -1.3. Exactly the same on both sides. He said it was out of spec, everything else was in spec all around. He said in order to adjust the camber, I would need to replace or swap out "bushings." he did not seem that knowledgeable, when I asked him what a bushing was, he said he recommended to take it to an off-road shop. I want to ensure, proper tread wear, and keep it as dependable/reliable as possible. Any recommendations on what to do?

I'm in a toss up to do a 2" full suspension lift or buy the needed parts. Or if it's not even an issue just leave it, someone let me know. I have 65K Miles, and know my shocks are probably due for replacement or service.

Build Sheet
JT Rubicon Diesel
Original Rubicon Fox Shocks, and OEM Suspension for Diesel
1.5" Terraflex Spacer in front
3/4" Daystar Spacer in rear

35" BF Goodrich KO2 T/A w/ only 50 Miles on them.
17x9 Pro Comp USA Prodigy Wheels w/ Backspace 4.75', Offset -6MM

My hope is someone can recommend good shocks to match the puck lift, as well as coil springs that match the puck lift, and bushings to buy to correct the camber.... IDK how this shit works. I'm handy and can figure out how to install things, but don't know the science behind it.

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[Rusty PW]

Camber is basically non adjustable. To adjust it. You either have to find ball joints that adjust (good luck with that) or bend the front axle.

Caster is adjustable IF you installed new control arms that are adjustable.

 

[kevman65]

Upper ball joint on each side goes through a camber "sleeve".

I do not know if someone makes different "sleeves" or not.

I do know said "sleeves" can be damaged.

https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem...vciZ5PTIwMjAmdD1ydWJpY29uJmU9My02bC12Ni1nYXM=

 

[DylanM]

I'm not seeing any mention in the service manual of different bushings or sleeves being available to dial in the camber, the only thing specifically pointed out is that camber is not adjustable and that worn parts must be replaced to correct an incorrect camber issue.

Before jumping directly to ball joint replacement though, I would first check the front hub bearings for wear/slop.

 

[TheGreenBackGorilla]

I'm not seeing any mention in the service manual of different bushings or sleeves being available to dial in the camber, the only thing specifically pointed out is that camber is not adjustable and that worn parts must be replaced to correct an incorrect camber issue.

Before jumping directly to ball joint replacement though, I would first check the front hub bearings for wear/slop.

How do you even know if ball joints are worn?

 

[kevman65]

Odds are, with the plastic innards, they need replaced.

 

[kevman65]

Bigger tires and wheel offset/back spacing are the normal culprits when it comes to ball joints.

 

[TheGreenBackGorilla]

Bigger tires and wheel offset/back spacing are the normal culprits when it comes to ball joints.

Any recommendation on ball joint replacement? Something high quality?

 

[DylanM]

How do you even know if ball joints are worn?

Jack the front wheels up off the ground, slide a lever under the tire, then work the lever up and down while looking for play in the ball joints. If the joints are really worn, you can sometimes see movement in them when you grab the top of a front wheel and try to rock it in/out.

To check for worn hub bearings, jack the front wheels up off the ground and grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock, then push/pull to try to rock the tire. If you feel play but you're unsure what's loose, have a helper watch the axle side of the wheel while you push/pull to locate the problem area.

 

[kevman65]

Any recommendation on ball joint replacement? Something high quality?

There are several choices out there.

Personally I went Synergy, just because I'm putting their knuckles in too.

 

[Vtur]

For both sides to be off equally, either the axle C were welded on incorrectly from Dana or the upper ball joint camber bushing sleeves are wrong. The sleeves should have a degree marking on them. I remember it being 0.25 degree from factory.

 

[Greg_L]

It's really odd that both are out of spec dead ass equally. But there is about a .5 degree fudge factor in just how a less-than-ideally-trained human uses the alignment machine so don't take it as flawless gospel.

Me personally, after having done about ten quadrillion alignments in my lifetime, I'd not worry about it.
For one, it's equal, which is good.
Two, it's not that far off and certainly not tire-eating-bad.
And three, a little negative camber will probably actually help a lifted big tire Jeep handle a little better on pavement.

Check your ball joints for wear, replace them if necessary. But if they're solid, just drive it and don't worry about it.

 

[TheGreenBackGorilla]

It's really odd that both are out of spec dead ass equally. But there is about a .5 degree fudge factor in just how a less-than-ideally-trained human uses the alignment machine so don't take it as flawless gospel.

Me personally, after having done about ten quadrillion alignments in my lifetime, I'd not worry about it.
For one, it's equal, which is good.
Two, it's not that far off and certainly not tire-eating-bad.
And three, a little negative camber will probably actually help a lifted big tire Jeep handle a little better on pavement.

Check your ball joints for wear, replace them if necessary. But if they're solid, just drive it and don't worry about it.

My ball joints are not clicking or even showing signs of wear suprising I jacked it up used a crow bar to test and tried pivoting them up and down no knock. I’m gonna replace anyway with hd since I’m replacing the shocks. Thank you for the sound advice, I’m not worried anymore.

 

[Greg_L]

My ball joints are not clicking or even showing signs of wear suprising I jacked it up used a crow bar to test and tried pivoting them up and down no knock. I’m gonna replace anyway with hd since I’m replacing the shocks. Thank you for the sound advice, I’m not worried anymore.

Looking at your readout again, it's actually remarkable how even everything is. The thrust angle of .01? For something that's not even adjustable? Absurd. That readout is about as square and perfect as it can get....with the exception of the strangely equal camber out of spec, but with everything else being so perfect I'm starting to think that was operator error.

 

[TheGreenBackGorilla]

Looking at your readout again, it's actually remarkable how even everything is. The thrust angle of .01? For something that's not even adjustable? Absurd. That readout is about as square and perfect as it can get....with the exception of the strangely equal camber out of spec, but with everything else being so perfect I'm starting to think that was operator error.

I take it to the dealership every year and ask for them to retorque all my suspension to spec. I ran 33’s for 65k miles. Off roaded and etc. I drive pretty aggressively like 80 on the highway all day long lmao. I’ve mature more and the past year and half have started doing 70 everywhere. I do have a steering stabilizer “Fox” but that’s been on since 2021. Idk lucky?

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