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OIL, 0-20 or otherwise (couldn't find the other oil threads)

ShadowsPapa

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It's odd that your paint doesn't seem very high quality. I feel the opposite about my 2024 High Velocity paint. I have yet to find any imperfections in it.
It's really noticeable with the ceramic on it in the right light. It's not glassy smooth like my 2022 was. The finish on my other JTs was flawless - even, zero orange peel, no imperfections.
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Reddog

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I can't lay under a vehicle any more and look up at the underside without getting really sick - so I'm really limited since I lost the functionality of my left inner ear/balance.
Ticks me off as I've got so much to do, including on my cars where almost everything requires being UNDER them.

Quality? The paint on my 25 is absolutely horrible compared to my 22. It's like it was sprayed in a local shop.
When I was wiping down the door sill area to put some clear paint film protection on the sill area, the rubbing alcohol dissolved the paint on the sill.
i assume it failed inspection after assembly and they did some touchup?
Paint should not come off on a paper towel with cheap rubbing alcohol.
Stelantis is in trouble. Their quality sucks. Part of the issue stems from the fed government standards that are increasingly impossible to meet while trying to keep the vehicles affordable. They went all in like the other manufacturers on electric and now they’re screwed. Shortage of rare earth materials, and no one wants to buy them in quanities that make the models sustainable. I go over landing. I don’t want an electric jeep. There are no plugin stations 180 miles off road. Stelantis doesn’t care about the Jeep brand and history, only sales. They better decide on a plan to fix the quality issues or there arent going to be any customers buying $60K and up Jeeps.
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SouthFLMojave

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Started watching a YouTube video by Lake Speed Jr. on this exact GM problem. Even he mentions that going slightly higher on the viscosity from what the manufacturer recommends is not a problem. He also brings up that some of these vehicles will ask for different viscosity of oils elsewhere in the world.
 

NC_Overland

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True. Biggest hit I took on MPG's on my base Sport is when I took off the plastic under bumper air dam and converted over to a Rubicon metal skid plate. That dropped my MPG and easy 1.5 MPG. Then when I went to 33's that was another 1 MPG lost. I am afraid to guess when I am done putting on my EVO 1/4 pounder bumper and winch is going to do to the MPG's.

Nothing I have done with regard to motor or gear oil viscosity increase has made a measurable blip that I noticed.
Any distribution in air flow makes a huge difference in hwy mpg. The these things being shaped like a brick comment is kinda not true. The engineers clearly did an amazing job with small tweaks to make the drag considerably lower than it could be while still maintaining its iconic shape. I’ve noticed a several mpg drop with roof panels out/top off or items in the bed over the bed rails. I’ve always got great mpg considering the changes that I made. I still got the EPA numbers after adding 285/70/18 E load vs the all season 255/70/18s and a Rubicon LE take off suspension that acted as a leveling kit and raised the front 1.5”. I just added front and rear bumpers (with a metal front skid) a winch, lights, and a much heavier tonneau cover. I haven’t taken a road trip yet, but I know I lost a few mpg since I added like 300 lbs of weight and disrupted the front air flow with the winch, lights, and different front skid.
 

NC_Overland

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I can't lay under a vehicle any more and look up at the underside without getting really sick - so I'm really limited since I lost the functionality of my left inner ear/balance.
Ticks me off as I've got so much to do, including on my cars where almost everything requires being UNDER them.

Quality? The paint on my 25 is absolutely horrible compared to my 22. It's like it was sprayed in a local shop.
When I was wiping down the door sill area to put some clear paint film protection on the sill area, the rubbing alcohol dissolved the paint on the sill.
i assume it failed inspection after assembly and they did some touchup?
Paint should not come off on a paper towel with cheap rubbing alcohol.

PXL_20250419_205804006.jpg
Whoa. That’s single stage. I worked in the car biz for years and it’s alarming how many vehicles get damaged in transit and it’s never disclosed to the customer or often even the dealership. I’m sorry that you’re dealing with this. I hope it’s isolated to a small area and easily addressed.
 

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NC_Overland

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It's really noticeable with the ceramic on it in the right light. It's not glassy smooth like my 2022 was. The finish on my other JTs was flawless - even, zero orange peel, no imperfections.
That’s great. Snazberry is a nice color and looks great polished up. If I didn’t have such a strong distaste for Bama (UGA grad) I’d like it a lot better. lol My 2020 Sting Gray has nice paint, but there’s definitely orange peel. I took down to 1000 grit on the hood when sanding out some scratches and a lot of light scuffs and scratches. It’s a lot of abuse the last several years by using it as a work truck and taking it through car washes. It’s mainly gone, but the sides, fenders flares and tailgate definitely have some. It is what it is.
 
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DiehardTory

DiehardTory

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Here is an interesting utube from the OIL Geek:
 

ShadowsPapa

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Here is an interesting utube from the OIL Geek:
Interesting that the 3.6 doesn't have lower end problems.
So why are people actually thinking about viscosity on the 3.6 when we don't have a problem on the lower end?
At about 6:40 or so he's pretty much saying what I've been thinking - bandaid because something went wrong with the production of the 21-24 engines. 25 doesn't have the same issue.

Me? I'm not a bit worried- we just don't see lower end issues on these.
Would I argue against going to say a 5w30? No, it shouldn't bother anything - the worst case would be responsiveness of the VVT/VVL areas and that would show up - no one is reporting that..
(and the PUG has moved to a torque phaser or timing control, not an oil controlled method so it shouldn't impact VVT anyway)

Then at 7:43 he lays out their REAL problem and why they went to the "thicker oil" - they fucked up the crankshaft finish! DUH!
So the problem is not the lower viscosity oil, the problem is that their shitty crankshaft finish is leading to a need for higher viscosity to maintain the "oil wedge" between the parts, and, it's going to lead to extra CRUD in the oil galleries. Where does the crap go that wears off a ROUGH CRANKSHAFT? Into the oil galleries.
The cause of the crud is the crappy rough finish.
The need for the oil viscosity change - due to the crappy crank finish.

So there you have it - but people are STILL going to argue that this should be applied to our engines and so on.

laughable at how this is being used to say "we need to do this, too!" Not unless Stellantis fucks up our crankshaft finishes.
Crud in the oil galleries? Caused by GM's crappy finish.

Cause and effect, folks, cause and effect.

The only reason thicker oil is needed in this case is the rougher finish - this guy even says as much.
 

Maximus Gladius

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Whoa. That’s single stage. I worked in the car biz for years and it’s alarming how many vehicles get damaged in transit and it’s never disclosed to the customer or often even the dealership. I’m sorry that you’re dealing with this. I hope it’s isolated to a small area and easily addressed.
Like this?

Jeep Gladiator OIL, 0-20 or otherwise (couldn't find the other oil threads) IMG_4905
 

Hootbro

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Here is an interesting utube from the OIL Geek:
Good video. Like he mentions, if you are going to play with going up in viscosity, need to test with an oil analysis.
 

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FloridaAussie

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I had been pondering going higher viscosity than what's stamped on the oil filler cap for about 9 years now. I have 4 late model cars, including my '21 Gladiator. I have moved over from 0W20 in three of them in April; they are all 5W30 now. The last one will be done in a week when I get home.

I have noticed my 2024 WRX runs slightly hotter now, at around 217ÂşF, which is about 10Âş warmer. I have not noticed any change in MPG on any of the vehicles running thicker oil. Not that 5W30 is a much thicker oil anyway, but makes me wonder really how much you can eke out of an engine with thinner oil. What, a gallon over 7,000 miles? $2.80?

I posed the question on Reddit a few weeks back about upping the viscosity and got a bunch of wanker "don't you have a manual?" retard comments. When it was named Reddit, I think 'retard.com' must have been taken already.
 

ShadowsPapa

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I had been pondering going higher viscosity than what's stamped on the oil filler cap for about 9 years now. I have 4 late model cars, including my '21 Gladiator. I have moved over from 0W20 in three of them in April; they are all 5W30 now. The last one will be done in a week when I get home.

I have noticed my 2024 WRX runs slightly hotter now, at around 217ÂşF, which is about 10Âş warmer. I have not noticed any change in MPG on any of the vehicles running thicker oil. Not that 5W30 is a much thicker oil anyway, but makes me wonder really how much you can eke out of an engine with thinner oil. What, a gallon over 7,000 miles? $2.80?

I posed the question on Reddit a few weeks back about upping the viscosity and got a bunch of wanker "don't you have a manual?" retard comments. When it was named Reddit, I think 'retard.com' must have been taken already.
I can point to tests which show that your oil and engine can run hotter with thicker oil but no one here cares about the reason or science behind the higher oil temps with higher viscosities.
And again, why are people.conparing an engine with a massive manufacturing flaw to ours with a solid lower end?
People are totally missing the points
 

FloridaAussie

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I can point to tests which show that your oil and engine can run hotter with thicker oil but no one here cares about the reason or science behind the higher oil temps with higher viscosities.
And again, why are people.conparing an engine with a massive manufacturing flaw to ours with a solid lower end?
People are totally missing the points
I don't have a problem with an engine running 10Âş hotter, which my personal observation shows. You say people are missing the points; can you shed some light on them for me? Maybe I am also missing the points, and would like to not miss the points.
 

WK2JT

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I recently started playing around with oil weights after they had to replace my intake cam and I’m out of warranty. I have about 9k miles on this new cam with 4 or 5 oil changes and I’m still seeing elevated levels of iron, but not crazy high like right after the cam change. I used 10w40 during the last interval and that has made zero difference on the wear particles I’m seeing so the 0w20 appears to provide plenty of protection, as least in the short term. What the heavier weight has done is change the cSt viscosity of course. The 0w20 would drop quickly where the 10w40 has stayed more stable even with longer change intervals. Granted, 9k is a very small sampling size. I’m hoping the elevated iron is just residual particles still flushing out and not another cam eating itself.

I’ve also played around with the oil weight in my Subaru 3.6. According to the internet they loosened the tolerances of the flat 6 in an attempt to gain MPG. Whether that is true or not, that engine loves the taste of oil and goes through a quart every 1k miles. Subaru considers that perfectly normal. Currently running 15w50 and it appears to consume it “less” but still consuming.
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