OIL, 0-20 or otherwise (couldn't find the other oil threads)

[ShadowsPapa]

HI All, New Info.. there is a 3rd notice - not public yet per this youtube video.. look and see.

And this is exactly what I've been saying - the 0w40 oil is a MASK, a bandaid, kicking the can down the road, a "nothing to see here, just do this instead" thing.
If the 0w20 oil was the problem, then explain WHY is GM stating this -
PUT 0w20 oil in the engine!

So GM is admitting there is NO PROBLEM with 0w20 oil - otherwise they sure wouldn't tell people to put it in the replacement engines.
The 40 weight is akin to putting sawdust in the old gear box to quiet it down instead of actually fixing it

This supports what I've been trying to say - the oil is not the issue - idiots working at GM are the issue.

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[jav_eee]

You are one reason that you can't make a "blanket statement" on oils - TEXAS heat.
Likely going up one "notch" in the oil is putting is pretty close to where many others are much of the time.
I've seen some charts that compare viscosities of oil over temperatures and there's a lot of overlap in some areas. I don't see one "notch" change a big deal in extreme heat.

Here I would never go up on the lower number (0w) as I want that oil to move and move fast when it's 20 degrees out.

Cranking it to 10w50 then. “A lot of overlap” doesn’t give me that warm and fuzzy feeling I crave.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Cranking it to 10w50 then. “A lot of overlap” doesn’t give me that warm and fuzzy feeling I crave.

I'm sure there's plenty of "warm" feeling in TX - it's the "fuzzy" I worry about down there.......

 

[Stan H]

We Always ran 0/30 in 15 rubicon runs like new in fact better than new with 200k 0/20 is to thin its about the sound to a common sense approach. Way to thin here in Texas. Tomato Tomoto 21 gladi likes it. Good luck all

I like your line of thought but it doesn't really have a whole lot to do with it I have ran the livin' dog$#!+ outta mine got it so hot & hard that it was pinging and the oil pressure dropped to 27psi. 27psi at idle is plenty I feel that is only a 3 pound change from cold. How is 3 pounds gonna change anything . It is the additive package of the oil that leaves behind a thin film . I have used 0W-20 for 123,500 miles and it runs like the first day I got it .yeah I have had to replace some sensors . I change the filter 2 times per oil change and typically run 5-6000 miles between changes. I don't know maybe my motor is just unusually tough ?

 

[Stan H]

I’ve been running 5w30 for the past 2 changes. I also have the RPM fan controller (I’m sure this will add another 10 pages to this thread) but highest I see is 203° oil (takes a while to get there) and 206° coolant.

I’ll go back to 0w20 for the summer months and see what the temps look like then…

Hmm

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I like your line of thought but it doesn't really have a whole lot to do with it I have ran the livin' dog$#!+ outta mine got it so hot & hard that it was pinging and the oil pressure dropped to 27psi. 27psi at idle is plenty I feel that is only a 3 pound change from cold. How is 3 pounds gonna change anything . It is the additive package of the oil that leaves behind a thin film . I have used 0W-20 for 123,500 miles and it runs like the first day I got it .yeah I have had to replace some sensors . I change the filter 2 times per oil change and typically run 5-6000 miles between changes. I don't know maybe my motor is just unusually tough ?

General rule of thumb used to be 10 psi for every 10,000 RPM. And sending units and oil pressure switches were set to trigger at anywhere from 8 to 10 psi.
I see 27 a lot in the lower RPMs and don't sweat it a bit because it's not pressure that lubricates. As long as there is VOLUME, oil getting to where it belongs, things are ok.
And as far as lubrication, anyone who has had valve covers off a running engine, at idle RPM, knows that 10-20 psi is enough to shoot oil over to the car in the next stall.
The lash adjusters on the Pentastar work similar to lifters on an old-school V8 - in our case, they shoot oil through a passage in the follower to the cam lobes on that head.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

So, has anyone sent in 0/20 or 0/40 to the lab to see what the viscosity difference is once the oil has run its course and thinned out?

There’s a few of us who’ve lab tested our used oil with Blackstone but Blackstone doesn’t care about the numbers from a fresh bottle to compare with the old used oil. I can guarantee the viscosity is not the same old as it is new.

If 0/20 is approved and “recommended”, that viscosity will start out at 8.3-.7 ish and after its run the 5000 or so miles, will be somewhere in the 7.3-.7 range. So in essence, viscosity drops a full point (ish).

So when a viscosity of 8.5 is recommended in a 0/20, it ain’t that when the oil has run 5000 miles or so, it’s thinner. I’ve never seen the viscosity numbers of a 0/16 oil but maybe if 0/20 actually becomes a 0/16 after it thins out may not be a stretch to say.

In my own personal case and usage, I’ve recognized that 0/20 is recommended which comes with the viscosity of 8.5(ish) but then understand it thins out to 7 something so my oil change consists of 3 - 0/20 and 2 - 5-30 bottles and when I do my oil changes at 5000 kms (3100 miles) the viscosity has thinned down, used, what 0/20 is new.

I would bet 0/40 viscosity actually thins to 0/30 …just saying.

 

[ecidiego]

shrieking violets

That was a new one for me... had to have GPT help:

lol

 

[IanNubbit]

So I have some varied opinion on this now. I have always been a "engineers know what your engine needs guy" but it appears, they failed me lol. 72k miles, I currently have a groove in at least one lob on all 4 cams (3.6). I change my oil every 3k miles (500 first, then at 3k, like 3 where 5k after running long, life you know, but 3k ever since). Noise started about 65k, I purposely waited until I could hear all 4 have gone (pros of having max-care warranty).

This basically sealed the deal that 0w20 is for efficiency. I'll start playing with viscosities from here, probably starting with 5w30 as I fell that will be best and doing some oil analysis along the way. I always preached that OEM specs with short intervals will be just fine, clearly that was not the case at all and the first hand experience is really what I needed to fully get that.

 

[WK2JT]

So I have some varied opinion on this now. I have always been a "engineers know what your engine needs guy" but it appears, they failed me lol. 72k miles, I currently have a groove in at least one lob on all 4 cams (3.6). I change my oil every 3k miles (500 first, then at 3k, like 3 where 5k after running long, life you know, but 3k ever since). Noise started about 65k, I purposely waited until I could hear all 4 have gone (pros of having max-care warranty).

This basically sealed the deal that 0w20 is for efficiency. I'll start playing with viscosities from here, probably starting with 5w30 as I fell that will be best and doing some oil analysis along the way. I always preached that OEM specs with short intervals will be just fine, clearly that was not the case at all and the first hand experience is really what I needed to fully get that.

Unfortunately, engineers are not immune to political (internal politics, needed to clarify so I don’t get banned) pressure and also lose those battles most of the time.

 

[Hootbro]

That was a new one for me... had to have GPT help:

lol

Yeah, some of my idioms are dated. Heavily influenced by my Grandparents on my mothers side growing up.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So I have some varied opinion on this now. I have always been a "engineers know what your engine needs guy" but it appears, they failed me lol. 72k miles, I currently have a groove in at least one lob on all 4 cams (3.6). I change my oil every 3k miles (500 first, then at 3k, like 3 where 5k after running long, life you know, but 3k ever since). Noise started about 65k, I purposely waited until I could hear all 4 have gone (pros of having max-care warranty).

This basically sealed the deal that 0w20 is for efficiency. I'll start playing with viscosities from here, probably starting with 5w30 as I fell that will be best and doing some oil analysis along the way. I always preached that OEM specs with short intervals will be just fine, clearly that was not the case at all and the first hand experience is really what I needed to fully get that.

We are dead-certain it's viscosity and not some other issue.......


So far, it's all "I think" or "I believe" or "mine failed so obviously the oil is all wrong".

(on all sides of it)

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So, has anyone sent in 0/20 or 0/40 to the lab to see what the viscosity difference is once the oil has run its course and thinned out?

There’s a few of us who’ve lab tested our used oil with Blackstone but Blackstone doesn’t care about the numbers from a fresh bottle to compare with the old used oil. I can guarantee the viscosity is not the same old as it is new.

If 0/20 is approved and “recommended”, that viscosity will start out at 8.3-.7 ish and after its run the 5000 or so miles, will be somewhere in the 7.3-.7 range. So in essence, viscosity drops a full point (ish).

So when a viscosity of 8.5 is recommended in a 0/20, it ain’t that when the oil has run 5000 miles or so, it’s thinner. I’ve never seen the viscosity numbers of a 0/16 oil but maybe if 0/20 actually becomes a 0/16 after it thins out may not be a stretch to say.

In my own personal case and usage, I’ve recognized that 0/20 is recommended which comes with the viscosity of 8.5(ish) but then understand it thins out to 7 something so my oil change consists of 3 - 0/20 and 2 - 5-30 bottles and when I do my oil changes at 5000 kms (3100 miles) the viscosity has thinned down, used, what 0/20 is new.

I would bet 0/40 viscosity actually thins to 0/30 …just saying.

I would bet some of that will vary with the oil itself. Generically saying 0w20 leaves a lot of room for variance in the additives.
The winter number - 0W - is more dependent on the base oil, the other number will depend on the formulation.
I have to suspect some will hold up better than others.
A good quality oil will hold that better than some others.

 

[jav_eee]

I'm sure there's plenty of "warm" feeling in TX - it's the "fuzzy" I worry about down there.......

Thought about it for a while and that warm and fuzzy feeling crept in so I said “what the hell”. I disabled the fan controller just for fun. Idled it for about 15 or 20 minutes and got coolant up to 220° and oil up to 215° and then the mosquitoes started being annoying. It also stayed at those temps for a while and coolant would bounce back and forth between 215 and 220. Didn’t hear the fan kick on but the nose was facing north and there was a cool breeze. It’s 80° right now.

I’ll leave it like that for a while and see what happens. I switched to 5w30 after the fan controller and don’t remember what temps I’d get before that.

 

[Stan H]

I'm sure there's plenty of "warm" feeling in TX - it's the "fuzzy" I worry about down there.......

How did you get a picture of one of my X's

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