Pitman arm nut seized!

[DanJT]

I did a search but came up empty, or I was tired as heck and missed it. But... The nut to the shaft vector Is a little more stubborn then I am. I have PB blasted that thing yo kingdom come to no avail. I have heated it but still managed to snap a industrial extension that was my sons when he worked at Ford in Franklin. (gonna kill my butt). So... What is the magic words to remove 1 single nut? And no abba cadabra does not work!

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[fourfa]

I had this problem putting on an aftermarket tie rod. For getting the nut off the shaft, more torque. I got a cheap 3/4” drive set and had to use the 3/4” breaker bar, a cheater extension, and a lot of force. I’d also use a heat gun on the nut to soften whatever industrial loctite is on there. (I would not use a flame torch that close to fluid lines.). It’s a bear but getting the nut off is only the beginning.

Once the nut is off, you’re likely to also find the pitman arm splines glued to the sector shaft. If you have to remove the whole arm (I did - I was never able to remove the tie rod end from the outer end of the pitman arm) you will need a pitman arm puller. You probably won’t be able to ring it out by hammering on it (and might harm the steering box if you did). I used a Lisle 41970 which fit nicely.

Be warned - when you build up enough force with the puller to break the glue, it will release with serious violence. I smashed my thumb so hard it instantly went numb and I didn’t get full feeling back for over a year. Make sure there’s no body part between the shaft and wherever the arm wants to go when it releases

With the pitman arm and stock tie rod out of the truck, I was finally able to hammer the rod end out with a 10 lb sledge in a huge shop vise. Fucking beast of a job

 

[rharr]

42mm 6pt socket, 3/4" drive end and 4' breaker bar.

And focused heat at the nut in a downward direction to nut. Don't want to melt the shaft seal.

I would recommend a map gas blow torch. You are just trying to get the nut hot enough to melt/soft the loctite.

* edited, had wrong socket size

 

[DanJT]

I have been PB blasting it, Again I am using one of my sone 30" breaker bar and heavy duty extensions. I can turn it at times but holy poop yourself Batman, when it broke loose the first time I was convinced I broke something. but now it will turn a mm and pop when it does. I guess I'll drop back up and punt and start again tomorrow. At least it will soak overnight in the PB blaster
I'm too old for this crap! (Almost)

 

[Sweetums]

I did a search but came up empty, or I was tired as heck and missed it. But... The nut to the shaft vector Is a little more stubborn then I am. I have PB blasted that thing yo kingdom come to no avail. I have heated it but still managed to snap a industrial extension that was my sons when he worked at Ford in Franklin. (gonna kill my butt). So... What is the magic words to remove 1 single nut? And no abba cadabra does not work!

In ascending order of violence:

1: Hit it with your purse.

2: Penetrating oil and do the trick where you try to tighten it a tiny bit to get the oil to work in, then back it off, then tighten, keep doing this until it starts to move a little more.

3: Heat. Get it smoking hot and then immediately get on it with the socket and breaker bar. Again try to go a bit in both directions just to get it loose.

4: Worst case scenario is to buy a new pitman arm (they aren't expensive) and cut the old one until it's almost through. Finish it with a hammer and chisel to break the last bit so you don't damage the spline.

5: Hit it with your purse again.

I was advised to not use an impact on there as it transmits the force into the gearbox and can damage things. You will likely need a pitman arm puller to get it off the splines.

 

[DanJT]

In ascending order of violence:

1: Hit it with your purse.

2: Penetrating oil and do the trick where you try to tighten it a tiny bit to get the oil to work in, then back it off, then tighten, keep doing this until it starts to move a little more.

3: Heat. Get it smoking hot and then immediately get on it with the socket and breaker bar. Again try to go a bit in both directions just to get it loose.

4: Worst case scenario is to buy a new pitman arm (they aren't expensive) and cut the old one until it's almost through. Finish it with a hammer and chisel to break the last bit so you don't damage the spline.

5: Hit it with your purse again.

I was advised to not use an impact on there as it transmits the force into the gearbox and can damage things. You will likely need a pitman arm puller to get it off the splines.

I have attempted 2-4 but unfortunately I did not bring my purse to the shop!

 

[rharr]

PB won't do crap, you need to use heat.

 

[DanJT]

I have been using heat, That is the only reason I have the nut 1/4 of the way off. I'm going the route Sweetums mentioned and going to work it back and forth.. We'll see.

 

[Sweetums]

My secret sauce for penetrating oil is 50% ATF and 50% Acetone. I swear that stuff can get between anything that isn't welded (and about 20% of things that are).

 

[DanJT]

Hey I have both... Guess what I'm doing tomorrow?

 

[Hootbro]

Yeah, I had to use a MAPP gas torch and 3/4" drive 4 foot breaker bar to get one loose. When it final does break bond, it will make a real loud crack and you will think the bottom end of your lower colon has fallen out for a couple of seconds before you recover.

 

[G0merP]

Oops, busted mine off with a Milwaukee mid torque impact. Came right off. Maybe I shouldn’t have done it that way but it worked and I haven’t seen any symptoms of damage yet…

 

[Rusty PW]

I've used one of these before to heat nuts up.

https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Induction-Heater-Removal-Removing/dp/B0D1CGL6G5/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2VIKKMEC8MWU1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.gWFvLZ4WXaTFl9aaUz1sztDf3EClg7KeT_iiiQWUXCdbiTb8Htw2C47Z0FGG6_I_3a5LZ4hJVxp6FWj1xabNFFL6rixHXq_AGW2wgDZa6WRpcYOZq61Jf1fwQwPn_jYVWJ_mqPV4zi6NofpS0FQt67gNh49JkKDKwjhnENy1bwN-0-C_ZkaKIxehqRzI9wEl29SCqo3x6nC3ywPkLhhR0xkJCd93Z6sge2K9LUJtJO9aAzlPiulMRho2NcYF7oGt-DXpgNbQqnQ6EVKhPgIfPd_4LY6b09xfT_yEEeYmq0M.8BnYdhj-ZlUMcT7K10SjqEOqICGcNyvX0EN70-Wv3tI&dib_tag=se&keywords=induction+heater&qid=1747096195&sprefix=induc,aps,111&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

[ShadowsPapa]

42mm 6pt socket, 3/4" drive end and 4' breaker bar.

And focused heat at the nut in a downward direction to nut. Don't want to melt the shaft seal.

I would recommend a map gas blow torch. You are just trying to get the nut hot enough to melt/soft the loctite.

* edited, had wrong socket size

Just like Russ says - an inductive heater - no flame, heats only what the coil is around. Works wonders.

 

[rharr]

Just like Russ says - an inductive heater - no flame, heats only what the coil is around. Works wonders.

If you want to buy me one, I'll send you my shipping address. I have better things to spend 300 bucks on that I will use more. We don't have rust in AZ.

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