Track Bar Fractured

[bleda2002]

That’s what I thought, but once I replaced the damaged one (rough country) all was good no more death wobble. I think I injured this track bar when I hit a huge hole. And it finally fractured.

I was bleeding horribly but they just replaced the soaked bandaid and all good.

The steering stabilizer is the bandaid, the old one was the soaked ineffective band aid, the new one is working currently. Eventually it too will stop working because the actual cause of the death wobble hasn't been fixed, and so it's wearing out the new stabilizers.

Also, next time just get a single through shaft stabilizer, the double stabilizers are entirely unnecessary

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[InvertedLogic]

I'm on my laptop now. I can see the crack in the paint.

But what I don’t understand. There is no rust on the break. Normally you would have some rust in the break area if it started 5 yrs ago.

There's rust where the crack started

 

[Daveckelley]

That dual steering stabilizer is doing more harm than good. Its masking other issues you need to address. Other than the obvious.

Also, it looks like you have a MOPAR 2" lift.

Doing more harm than good? No more death wobble I think it’s doing more good, and no harm. I’ve read every article I could find about DW. I found the bushing off the Rough Country. I removed that and replaced with top of the line Fox stabilizers. I’ve been Death wobble free for over 30 thousand miles. This fractured arm is a result of the initial injury. We’ll find out in a few days when I install the new Synergy and take it from there.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

No more death wobble I think it’s doing more good, and no harm.

If cutting the nerve so you don't feel the pain of the cancer is doing more good - go for it.

It's ok to ignore suspension/steering engineers if it feels good

 

[Daveckelley]

If cutting the nerve so you don't feel the pain of the cancer is doing more good - go for it.

It's ok to ignore suspension/steering engineers if it feels good

We’re not talking about the central nervous system, you’re analogy is pretty weak.
But I’ll use your anatomy and physiology choice.
I found the cancer, I cut it out, gave chemo and radiotherapy and have been cancer free for years.
I now have a single metastatic site, I’m in the middle of treating it. Post treatment will take a follow up CT scan.

 

[WILDHOBO]

That’s what I thought, but once I replaced the damaged one (rough country) all was good no more death wobble. I think I injured this track bar when I hit a huge hole. And it finally fractured.

Stock steering and track bars aren’t strong. They’re meant for unlifted jeeps. The first thing that should be done when lifting a jeep is upgrade the steering and track bar components. Hitting a hole at 25mph breaks things. I’d say count yourself lucky it broke all the way while you were moving slowly.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

From an engineer -

pitman arm to the right hand knuckle with tie rod ends at both ends for the draglink; and a single rod from the left hand knuckle to the drag link with ball joints at both ends.

These parts are sized in compression strength and torsional strength for the original maximum size tires and no larger. In stock form, flexing out of plane for these pieces is minimized.

Once you change to a larger overall diameter tire, you do two things - both bad. You increase the rotating mass, increasing the gyroscopic effect of the tire on handling; and you change the theoretical length of the arm resisting the toe change from ground induced inputs.

This is the cause of the steering induced effects. Other issues arise from the changes in the geometry when a panhard...................................
........................
In stock form, these effects are minimized. Lift it and you will have a problem, the only change is when and under what conditions. Idiots that simply bolt on a 4" lift kit will be selected by Darwin...the only question is when. In general, people designing these lift kits do not know what they are doing.

That's from an engineer - so blame HIM, not me!

Like the wild hobo said - start lifting and putting on bigger tires - it's really not smart at all to keep the same tie rod, drag link and track bar.
And tossing on a fancy sideways shock is not a fix no matter how much you want to believe it is.
It's been said by hundreds of people, engineers and others.
It's an inconvenient truth, I know.
Your issues are still there, and will manifest in some way.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Stock steering and track bars aren’t strong. They’re meant for unlifted jeeps. The first thing that should be done when lifting a jeep is upgrade the steering and track bar components. Hitting a hole at 25mph breaks things. I’d say count yourself lucky it broke all the way while you were moving slowly.

The stock tie rod is fine on my mojave that's been on 37s for all of its 38k miles. The stock tie rod is fine on the wife's JLUR on 39s with 44k miles. The drag links are both upgraded and flipped but the tie rods are stronger than they get credit for.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

We’re not talking about the central nervous system, you’re analogy is pretty weak.
But I’ll use your anatomy and physiology choice.
I found the cancer, I cut it out, gave chemo and radiotherapy and have been cancer free for years.
I now have a single metastatic site, I’m in the middle of treating it. Post treatment will take a follow up CT scan.

Take that stabilizer rig off - and see if you have any shimmy or DW.
If you do, then you have a crappy setup - it's really that simple. You should be able to run without it.
If you can't, you have a really rotten lift with crappy parts, a tire problem, tire balance problem, worn or BENT parts, and I'd not be shocked to find you have worn or bent parts since one broke.

The truth is really hard to hear, I know... But if you can't run without it, you have a problem.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The stock tie rod is fine on my mojave that's been on 37s for all of its 38k miles. The stock tie rod is fine on the wife's JLUR on 39s with 44k miles. The drag links are both upgraded and flipped but the tie rods are stronger than they get credit for.

Then my response could be something like - you've done something right.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Take that stabilizer rig off - and see if you have any shimmy or DW.
If you do, then you have a crappy setup - it's really that simple. You should be able to run without it.
If you can't, you have a really rotten lift with crappy parts, a tire problem, tire balance problem, worn or BENT parts, and I'd not be shocked to find you have worn or bent parts since one broke.

The truth is really hard to hear, I know... But if you can't run without it, you have a problem.

I don't think most brand new Jeeps would make it with no stabilizer. Yes in theory you can run without one if everything is perfect... but they put one on from the factory for a reason.

 

[WILDHOBO]

From an engineer -

pitman arm to the right hand knuckle with tie rod ends at both ends for the draglink; and a single rod from the left hand knuckle to the drag link with ball joints at both ends.

These parts are sized in compression strength and torsional strength for the original maximum size tires and no larger. In stock form, flexing out of plane for these pieces is minimized.

Once you change to a larger overall diameter tire, you do two things - both bad. You increase the rotating mass, increasing the gyroscopic effect of the tire on handling; and you change the theoretical length of the arm resisting the toe change from ground induced inputs.

This is the cause of the steering induced effects. Other issues arise from the changes in the geometry when a panhard...................................
........................
In stock form, these effects are minimized. Lift it and you will have a problem, the only change is when and under what conditions. Idiots that simply bolt on a 4" lift kit will be selected by Darwin...the only question is when. In general, people designing these lift kits do not know what they are doing.

That's from an engineer - so blame HIM, not me!

Like the wild hobo said - start lifting and putting on bigger tires - it's really not smart at all to keep the same tie rod, drag link and track bar.
And tossing on a fancy sideways shock is not a fix no matter how much you want to believe it is.
It's been said by hundreds of people, engineers and others.
It's an inconvenient truth, I know.
Your issues are still there, and will manifest in some way.

Here come all the “I’ve been running stock steering for 3 years with 40’s, and haven’t had an issue” comments. Doesn’t make it safe though.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The stock tie rod is fine on my mojave that's been on 37s for all of its 38k miles. The stock tie rod is fine on the wife's JLUR on 39s with 44k miles. The drag links are both upgraded and flipped but the tie rods are stronger than they get credit for.

I disagree. I upgraded my steering as soon as it got larger tires.

 

[Stan H]

Here come all the “I’ve been running stock steering for 3 years with 40’s, and haven’t had an issue” comments. Doesn’t make it safe though.

I will throw an "I aint had stock steering in 3 yrs" in the mix and really mess the data up.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I don't think most brand new Jeeps would make it with no stabilizer. Yes in theory you can run without one if everything is perfect... but they put one on from the factory for a reason.

Agreed. Because those parts suck. They’re band aiding crappy parts from the factory.

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