Track Bar Fractured

[WILDHOBO]

Mine might actually be an old Teraflex, I honestly don’t remember. It’s definitely not RC though. Oceanside is like 70 minutes away

Teraflex makes strong track bars.

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[WILDHOBO]

Yes and Double yes preach it brother Hobo

I miss paper football.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Here come all the “I’ve been running stock steering for 3 years with 40’s, and haven’t had an issue” comments. Doesn’t make it safe though.

If it works, doesn't fail on the Rubicon, John Bull, in the desert at 100mph, etc I'd say 3 years had proven it plenty safe but you do you. The only tie rod issues I've seen are people who can't pick a line trying to push boulders with it. Just because you bought a new tie rod doesn't prove you needed a new tie rod.

 

[Zachanadandy]

The problem is that most people will kill joint ends over time, and just loosen their steering. We won’t find many broken track bars in the failure list. Since bad rod ends don’t photograph well, there won’t be many threads.

Track bars don't have rod ends? Just a bushed joint as they don't need to move at angles. The drag link rod ends wear out quickly when you add longer shocks and flex out the suspension regularly. The tie rod on the other hand moves in a much more limited range of motion which is why those ends hold up well for a long time even on big tires. Upgrading perfectly functional parts does nothing to prove those parts weren't plenty useable. You could put on new tires every trip and claim that tires only last one wheeling trip but the training is just as flawed.

 

[WILDHOBO]

If it works, doesn't fail on the Rubicon, John Bull, in the desert at 100mph, etc I'd say 3 years had proven it plenty safe but you do you. The only tie rod issues I've seen are people who can't pick a line trying to push boulders with it. Just because you bought a new tie rod doesn't prove you needed a new tie rod.

I’m not talking about catastrophic failures like the op had. Im talking about joints loosening up from the forces from large tires and lifts, making steering less safe on the highway. Obviously there are those that get away with it and don’t have failures. But I will overbuild everything to prevent it.

 

[Stan H]

I’m not talking about catastrophic failures like the op had. Im talking about joints loosening up from the forces from large tires and lifts, making steering less safe on the highway. Obviously there are those that get away with it and don’t have failures. But I will overbuild everything to prevent it.

Yes and all those small amount of play/slack etc.. not on every Rig but on most adds up to an eventual wobble. Sometimes it isnt felt and can be confused with roadway vibrations until it becomes large enough to really show its self. When that happens and one component is found to ha e failed IMHO its best to go through the thing and build it up..If one peice fails then everything is being stressed . It is only logical to beef it all up. Why use what was designed for 32&33" tires when your wearing 35,37,40" tires. There us no explanation for that.
Build it up to match the game. Ya want to ply then pay. I for one ain't going to not be proactive in the parts thT steer me around unt uh no sir.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Yes and all those small amount of play/slack etc.. not on every Rig but on most adds up to an eventual wobble. Sometimes it isnt felt and can be confused with roadway vibrations until it becomes large enough to really show its self. When that happens and one component is found to ha e failed IMHO its best to go through the thing and build it up..If one peice fails then everything is being stressed . It is only logical to beef it all up. Why use what was designed for 32&33" tires when your wearing 35,37,40" tires. There us no explanation for that.
Build it up to match the game. Ya want to ply then pay. I for one ain't going to not be proactive in the parts thT steer me around unt uh no sir.

The JLs that are available with 35s... have the same parts. Justification bias is strong. Claiming you needed x,y,and z because you bought them only makes you feel better. If a part is worn, replace it. The idea that you need to go through the entire suspension and replace everything is just not true. But what do I know, my rigs just get driven to the mall. The 1st video still had the 2" spacer lift and 37s. The second had 3.5" metalcloak springs but still runs the stock front upper and lower arms, rear lowers, and stock tie rod.


No wobble, no shimmy, and when the tie rod needs replaced it will get upgraded just like every other part along the way.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The JLs that are available with 35s... have the same parts. Justification bias is strong. Claiming you needed x,y,and z because you bought them only makes you feel better. If a part is worn, replace it. The idea that you need to go through the entire suspension and replace everything is just not true. But what do I know, my rigs just get driven to the mall. The 1st video still had the 2" spacer lift and 37s. The second had 3.5" metalcloak springs but still runs the stock front upper and lower arms, rear lowers, and stock tie rod.


No wobble, no shimmy, and when the tie rod needs replaced it will get upgraded just like every other part along the way.

No one on here, or anyone, should consider you a mall crawler. I know I don’t. I agree that I don’t NEED 2.5 ton steering to do the things I do, or the things you do. But I prefer overbuilt. And I know that’s a preference. Most of my wheeling buddies have all three front steering links from the factory, and they do all the same things. Ok, maybe not “Dan lines”. But I like to push things.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The JLs that are available with 35s... have the same parts. Justification bias is strong. Claiming you needed x,y,and z because you bought them only makes you feel better. If a part is worn, replace it. The idea that you need to go through the entire suspension and replace everything is just not true. But what do I know, my rigs just get driven to the mall. The 1st video still had the 2" spacer lift and 37s. The second had 3.5" metalcloak springs but still runs the stock front upper and lower arms, rear lowers, and stock tie rod.


No wobble, no shimmy, and when the tie rod needs replaced it will get upgraded just like every other part along the way.

My choices are for one specific reason. When someone spotting me waves their arms and says “STOP! You’re on your steering! You’re on your diff! You’re on your control arm!” Whatever. I can just say thanks for letting me know, change the line and continue. But I’m not worried about breakage. Whatever the part, it’s just getting beauty marks.

 

[Gizmo]

Some time experience guides you through your upgrades . I prefer to do mine slightly ahead of time making an educated upgrade that works with future mods. Why wait when you know whats coming . If ya don't know its usually in black and white on most forums. Just knowing who to listen too is the hard part " in the beginning ".

 

[bleda2002]

Some time experience guides you through your upgrades . I prefer to do mine slightly ahead of time making an educated upgrade that works with future mods. Why wait when you know whats coming . If ya don't know its usually in black and white on most forums. Just knowing who to listen too is the hard part " in the beginning ".

I lucked out upgrading my tie rod before hand, the very next wheeling trip there was a 6 foot deep gouge that was usually filled with water and happened to be dry so I decided to give it a try. Didn't realize that at the middle it pinched down so tight. My wife has a good picture of the aluminum tie rod flexing as the tires crushed in before climbing up. Once I got out of the hole it all straightened back out and alignment was still spot on.

 

[InvertedLogic]

The stock tie rod is fine on my mojave that's been on 37s for all of its 38k miles. The stock tie rod is fine on the wife's JLUR on 39s with 44k miles. The drag links are both upgraded and flipped but the tie rods are stronger than they get credit for.

I just replaced the tierod, draglink, and BJs of my 2020 JTR at 58k on 35s, otherwise unmodified. ALL of the ball and socket joints were absolutely clapped. 99% of these miles are street miles.

 

[Zachanadandy]

I just replaced the tierod, draglink, and BJs of my 2020 JTR at 58k on 35s, otherwise unmodified. ALL of the ball and socket joints were absolutely clapped. 99% of these miles are street miles.

Parts wear. Larger tires make them wear faster. That doesn't mean you need to replace them before they wear.

 

[InvertedLogic]

Parts wear. Larger tires make them wear faster. That doesn't mean you need to replace them before they wear.

The JLs that are available with 35s... have the same parts

They're really not larger, they're stock JL size remember? My point is that the equipment is barely adequate for light modifications and certified mall crawling (me).

 

[Zachanadandy]

They're really not larger, they're stock JL size remember? My point is that the equipment is barely adequate for light modifications and certified mall crawling (me).

You got 60k miles out of wearable parts? How's that barely adequate?

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