Waiting on a tow after leaving dealer after oil change

[RHINO79]

I completely agree. Way easier the way it’s currently designed.

Easiest oil change I have ever done on a vehicle!

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[Stan H]

Easiest oil change I have ever done on a vehicle!

It is easy to change oil but ,I aint crazy about the oil pan. Wished the plug was closer to the bottom. I plan on changing mine to a PPE style which also gives 1/2 quart more capacity as well. And is finned for added cooling.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I also get that but it’s not obvious to many that you don’t need to crank the cap down so in my eyes it’s not robust because you need to design for ”the lowest common denominator” who might be servicing the truck. Combine that with the fact that it’s location is absolutely the worst for avoiding oil dripping on the alternator, over the top of the engine, and on the serpentine belt. I cover my alternator and the front of the engine and even then I still occasionally get oil down under the intake manifold. If they’d spend a few more dollars and move the cartridge to a remote location other than over top the engine I’d be much better with it, but no, everything these days is designed to remove as many parts/cost as possible.

I just have a wad of paper towel in my hand before the quick pull and flip. I have yet to lose anything more than one or two drips that way.

I don’t do the crack the filter trick most do, on purpose. I don’t want almost any oil in there before i back it out. So I remove the fill cap for my draining. When it’s drained at least 3 or 4 quarts, then I move on to the filter while the rest drains out of the engine below. I don’t even close the drain until the new filter is in. That way I can methodically swap the cartridge and o ring, and oil both, while the last of the oil drains out. It’s been a very clean way to do it for me.

 

[legacy_etu]

I just have a wad of paper towel in my hand before the quick pull and flip. I have yet to lose anything more than one or two drips that way.

I don’t do the crack the filter trick most do, on purpose. I don’t want almost any oil in there before i back it out. So I remove the fill cap for my draining. When it’s drained at least 3 or 4 quarts, then I move on to the filter while the rest drains out of the engine below. I don’t even close the drain until the new filter is in. That way I can methodically swap the cartridge and o ring, and oil both, while the last of the oil drains out. It’s been a very clean way to do it for me.

Yup, this is exactly the way I do it too. I only get a few drops now and then, nothing crazy.

 

[Stan H]

Yup, this is exactly the way I do it too. I only get a few drops now and then, nothing crazy.

You both using a Baxter?

 

[WILDHOBO]

It is easy to change oil but ,I aint crazy about the oil pan. Wished the plug was closer to the bottom. I plan on changing mine to a PPE style which also gives 1/2 quart more capacity as well. And is finned for added cooling.

I think the plug is on the back so it’s less likely to get hit. The PPE pan I think it’s even further from the bottom and is straight back facing. I wanted the PPE pan as well, but the extra quart and the fins made it too large for my engine skid to clear.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Yup, this is exactly the way I do it too. I only get a few drops now and then, nothing crazy.

If I get a drop it’s on me. Or my hands were shaky. Usually I don’t drip at all, except maybe on the paper towel.

 

[WILDHOBO]

You both using a Baxter?

Nope. Factory filter setup. It works great. I think the Baxter would be way messier, but I haven’t tried it, and I’m sure people that have might chime in to confirm or deny.

 

[MPMB]

If I get a drop it’s on me. Or my hands were shaky. Usually I don’t drip at all, except maybe on the paper towel.

Hell, I try and spill as much as humanly possible. Conditions the exterior of the block & prevents rust. Plus it blends in nicely with the sensor seals that leak on the valve covers.

My first oil change after the lift I could crawl underneath w/o jacking up the JT. It was great. Until the wind picked up right as the draining oil flow was thinner a pencil-width, blowing it sideways across the driveway and out of the drain pan. Made me think about switching to the suction method.

 

[legacy_etu]

You both using a Baxter?

Nope, stock filter setup.

 

[Lost1wing]

My TDI's have a similar design oil filter housing. Install the new o-rings, lubricant them and install hand tight. No need to torque it down. With the our filter caps I do pretty much the same thing. I don't torque it at all. All I do is seat it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I just have a wad of paper towel in my hand before the quick pull and flip. I have yet to lose anything more than one or two drips that way.

I don’t do the crack the filter trick most do, on purpose. I don’t want almost any oil in there before i back it out. So I remove the fill cap for my draining. When it’s drained at least 3 or 4 quarts, then I move on to the filter while the rest drains out of the engine below. I don’t even close the drain until the new filter is in. That way I can methodically swap the cartridge and o ring, and oil both, while the last of the oil drains out. It’s been a very clean way to do it for me.

Loosen filter, unscrew cap and let it sit and drip down to the pan, reach under and drain the pan.
This way there's nothing in the filter housing to be messy, and it's down in the pan to drain out with the rest of the dirty oil. Oil at the filter housing area may be dirtier than other oil because of dirty oil shedding off the filter paper - I want it down and gone. So the filter comes loose first, and drains into the pan.

I have a feeling that some do the pan, close that up, then get up and swap the filter, not realizing that once they loosen and raise that filter, dirty oil goes down into the pan which is now closed.

So me - Loosen filter, unscrew it completely but let it sit and drain up there, then do the pan and check other stuff while that's draining, then close the pan, go from there.
I don't just "crack it loose", I unscrew it and just let it rest there on the top thread, fully disengaged, fully unscrewed, but resting in the housing to drain.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

My TDI's have a similar design oil filter housing. Install the new o-rings, lubricant them and install hand tight. No need to torque it down. With the our filter caps I do pretty much the same thing. I don't torque it at all. All I do is seat it.

- with an o-ring, hand tight is good. The o-ring sealed the moment it was down into the housing.

 

[Supazuk]

I just have a wad of paper towel in my hand before the quick pull and flip. I have yet to lose anything more than one or two drips that way.

I don’t do the crack the filter trick most do, on purpose. I don’t want almost any oil in there before i back it out. So I remove the fill cap for my draining. When it’s drained at least 3 or 4 quarts, then I move on to the filter while the rest drains out of the engine below. I don’t even close the drain until the new filter is in. That way I can methodically swap the cartridge and o ring, and oil both, while the last of the oil drains out. It’s been a very clean way to do it for me.

yep I had a 05 super duty and have a 15 mini I really like cartage filters on top ...

 

[WILDHOBO]

Hell, I try and spill as much as humanly possible. Conditions the exterior of the block & prevents rust. Plus it blends in nicely with the sensor seals that leak on the valve covers.

My first oil change after the lift I could crawl underneath w/o jacking up the JT. It was great. Until the wind picked up right as the draining oil flow was thinner a pencil-width, blowing it sideways across the driveway and out of the drain pan. Made me think about switching to the suction method.

Fumoto valve. No more wind problems. Just a hose into an empty 5qt from the last change.

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