Waiting on a tow after leaving dealer after oil change

[WILDHOBO]

Loosen filter, unscrew cap and let it sit and drip down to the pan, reach under and drain the pan.
This way there's nothing in the filter housing to be messy, and it's down in the pan to drain out with the rest of the dirty oil. Oil at the filter housing area may be dirtier than other oil because of dirty oil shedding off the filter paper - I want it down and gone. So the filter comes loose first, and drains into the pan.

I have a feeling that some do the pan, close that up, then get up and swap the filter, not realizing that once they loosen and raise that filter, dirty oil goes down into the pan which is now closed.

So me - Loosen filter, unscrew it completely but let it sit and drain up there, then do the pan and check other stuff while that's draining, then close the pan, go from there.
I don't just "crack it loose", I unscrew it and just let it rest there on the top thread, fully disengaged, fully unscrewed, but resting in the housing to drain.

Agreed. I just do it slightly differently, in that I crack the filter after a decent amount of oil is drained out, which decreases my drippings at the filter. But I still do it while the drain is still open at the pan. I don’t close the pan until the very last step. After the new filter is in. Right before filling new oil.

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[ShadowsPapa]

Draining oil at the pan doesn't drain oil from the filter. Oil is held at the filter until it's loosened and that valve allowed to open. There's no connection between draining the pan and having less oil in the filter.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Draining oil at the pan doesn't drain oil from the filter. Oil is held at the filter until it's loosened and that valve allowed to open. There's no connection between draining the pan and having less oil in the filter.

That I understand. And thanks for the picture. It now makes perfect sense why we don’t need Baxter filters to keep oil in the filter housing. They’re already designed to, unless you loosen it. I still think I’m getting that old filter oil out if I’m leaving the pan open while refitting, and cleaning the filter housing. I’m meticulous, so the housing is open for at least 5-10 minutes while I pull the filter, put the new o ring on, wipe it clean, oil the o rings, wipe it clean again, and finally reinstall it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

so the housing is open for at least 5-10 minutes while I pull the filter, put the new o ring on, wipe it clean, oil the o rings, wipe it clean again, and finally reinstall it.

I wonder how many other people bother with cleaning out what settles into that area? Likely almost none.
Even on screw-on filters, i wipe down the area they screw onto - even on the Kawasaki engine on my lawn tractor, I clean up where the filter goes before the new one goes on.

 

[Hootbro]

Nope. Factory filter setup. It works great. I think the Baxter would be way messier, but I haven’t tried it, and I’m sure people that have might chime in to confirm or deny.

Currently have a Baxter and using the schrader valve with compressed air and 30 seconds to evacuate it, really not even a drop falls when removing the can oil filter. I have even on occasion used a electric tire inflator for the air source.

Below is the last filter I removed and cut open. The oil you see is what was remaining in it.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...pg2500-premium-guard-cut-open-10-8-25.400528/

 

[legacy_etu]

Loosen filter, unscrew cap and let it sit and drip down to the pan, reach under and drain the pan.
This way there's nothing in the filter housing to be messy, and it's down in the pan to drain out with the rest of the dirty oil. Oil at the filter housing area may be dirtier than other oil because of dirty oil shedding off the filter paper - I want it down and gone. So the filter comes loose first, and drains into the pan.

I have a feeling that some do the pan, close that up, then get up and swap the filter, not realizing that once they loosen and raise that filter, dirty oil goes down into the pan which is now closed.

So me - Loosen filter, unscrew it completely but let it sit and drain up there, then do the pan and check other stuff while that's draining, then close the pan, go from there.
I don't just "crack it loose", I unscrew it and just let it rest there on the top thread, fully disengaged, fully unscrewed, but resting in the housing to drain.

Great insight Bill regarding the draining of the oil filter. I never thought of this. Going to start doing it this way now too.

Actually thinking about it, I do do it this way (usually anyway). Drain plug from underneath, go up top and remove filter while it's still draining, then go back under and seal up, go back up top and refill and install new filter. I jus can't say I do it intentionally because I was thinking about "dirty oil" being trapped in the cartridge housing.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I wonder how many other people bother with cleaning out what settles into that area? Likely almost none.
Even on screw-on filters, i wipe down the area they screw onto - even on the Kawasaki engine on my lawn tractor, I clean up where the filter goes before the new one goes on.

I definitely do, but I’m sure I’m in the minority. But I’m nuts, so oh well.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Currently have a Baxter and using the schrader valve with compressed air and 30 seconds to evacuate it, really not even a drop falls when removing the can oil filter. I have even on occasion used a electric tire inflator for the air source.

Below is the last filter I removed and cut open. The oil you see is what was remaining in it.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...pg2500-premium-guard-cut-open-10-8-25.400528/

I’m sure their compressed air valve evacuates it very well. I still question why they are necessary. Since the factory housing keeps the filter full.

 

[Hootbro]

I still question why they are necessary. Since the factory housing keeps the filter full.

That is a different question that has been debated ad nauseam.

 

[WILDHOBO]

That is a different question that has been debated ad nauseam.

It definitely has. I’m known for someone that will spend money to protect the life of my engine. But I have yet to see a diagram from Baxter showing that the mopar housing drains dry when the engine shuts off. I want to see evidence of the supposed dry starts in this generation of the PUG. If I’m convinced, I’ll fork out the $300 Baxter money.

 

[Hootbro]

It definitely has. I’m known for someone that will spend money to protect the life of my engine. But I have yet to see a diagram from Baxter showing that the mopar housing drains dry when the engine shuts off. I want to see evidence of the supposed dry starts in this generation of the PUG. If I’m convinced, I’ll fork out the $300 Baxter money.

Yeah, I am not the answer guy for some of these things. I use unlicensed fluids, incorrect fluid grades and service intervals off OEM recommendations, but I knowingly assume these risks and understand them. It is why I put my disclaimer in my signature.

That being said, I am also the above average idiot that does data collection and analysis on what I do and understand where my vehicle is at. I have no problem if the data leads negative to abandon and adjust from there.

When people ask questions and I have data to provide, I provide it and leave others to do what they want with it. I understand what I do but I am not in the business to make others understand it or make claim it is always a best practice.

 

[Supazuk]

I wonder how many other people bother with cleaning out what settles into that area? Likely almost none.
Even on screw-on filters, i wipe down the area they screw onto - even on the Kawasaki engine on my lawn tractor, I clean up where the filter goes before the new one goes on.

I do but i also clean off the filter housing before i open it too hit it with some air then wipe. I live on a dirt road

 

[JMBIII]

My 2¢:
What Hootbro and ShadowsPapa said in their last posts. I do the same. The filter location on every one of the BMWs (1990-2015) I've owned was on the top. Two of the BMWs had way over 240,000 miles on them without any oil problems. With me changing the oil and filters with a similar maintenance approach to Hootbro. Will be following the same practices on my Gladiator.
Your mileage may vary!

Edit: valve cover gaskets will leak - eventually.

 

[Stan H]

That I understand. And thanks for the picture. It now makes perfect sense why we don’t need Baxter filters to keep oil in the filter housing. They’re already designed to, unless you loosen it. I still think I’m getting that old filter oil out if I’m leaving the pan open while refitting, and cleaning the filter housing. I’m meticulous, so the housing is open for at least 5-10 minutes while I pull the filter, put the new o ring on, wipe it clean, oil the o rings, wipe it clean again, and finally reinstall it.

When I do my oil I always drive home and then park it . Leave it sit for several hours. Supposedly after 35min. The oil that is up in the oil cooler will drain back on its own.

 

[WILDHOBO]

When I do my oil I always drive home and then park it . Leave it sit for several hours. Supposedly after 35min. The oil that is up in the oil cooler will drain back on its own.

I hadn’t heard that. I change right after driving it so it’s not as hell. Cold oil drains too slowly for me. Doesn’t mean it’s not accurate. I haven’t researched it either.

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