Leaking rear window : fixes for those who don't want to play dealer roulette, wait 2 months, have their top scratched, seats ripped etc....

[droy]

Do it now. Mine started leaking about two years after the new window was put in under warranty and it took out a module and connector that are mounted under the back window.

2021 Mojave 14,360 mi. Just fo

Do it now. Mine started leaking about two years after the new window was put in under warranty and it took out a module and connector that are mounted under the back window.

2021 Mojave 14,360 mi. found out yesterday the leaking rear window took out DTCM module causing implausible signals from front & rear lockers I know, Mojaves have NO front lockers, Dealer will not take any action until leak is addressed. Naturally warranty is out, extended warranty doesn’t cover glass replacement / damage caused by leaks. Service guy says he will try to make module replacement covered by extended warranty (purchased at time of the vehicle purchase) ; however if module wires are corroded claim will be denied.
The absolute PISSER is since purchased that Mojave was stored under a large carport except for the 14,360 miles driven & I have NO recollection of EVER driving it in the rain.
Adding insult to injury they also wrote that the after market Auto Stop Eliminator is possibly causing communication issues causing concerns.
This may be the straw that causes me to drive over to GMC dealership to take a closer look at a Canyon.

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[Trail_Limo_Tim]

Excellent write-up.

I used rubber vacuum hose as opposed to silicone. If I were to do it again, I think the silicone hose maybe be a little easier to work with.

The "trick" to a perfect installation is getting the hose installed to a consistent depth. You don't want to push the hose too far in, but you need to push it in far enough to stop the leak and have it stay in place.

To accomplish this, I made an installation tool. The tool is a piece of 1" OD polyethylene (plastic) pipe cut to a length of about 1.75". Round & smooth the ends with a file & sandpaper. I then wrapped it with blue painter's tape to ensure it would not scratch anything. You'll likely need to replace the painter's tape a few times as it gets worn out.

Apply the alcohol lube solution and place the hose over the gap. Roll the tool over the hose while applying pressure to push the hose into the gap. I started at the top center of the window and worked my way to each side. Once you get the center started, keep applying lube and moving the tool over about 1/2" and keep working your way to the ends.

The corners are are little tricky because you can't keep the tool flat on the glass. You need to tilt the tool and use the rounded ends to insert the hose.

Tool:

Results:

Well, I’ve got the leak. 2021 Gladiator with an Oct 2020 build date. I knew something was up when I came back to my parked truck and the front windows were fogged over. Started searching for a leak and found the back window was the culprit. Got a small container of Damp Rid and placed it behind the rear seat. Windows stopped fogging up, but of course still gotta fix the leak. Been parking inside the garage at home since I discovered the problem.

Ordered the silicone tubing from Amazon… they lost my package. lol. Ordered it again and it was delivered today. I’ll be using this method tomorrow and see how it goes. Thanks for posting.

 

[droy]

2021 Mojave 14,360 mi. Just fo

2021 Mojave 14,360 mi. found out yesterday the leaking rear window took out DTCM module causing implausible signals from front & rear lockers I know, Mojaves have NO front lockers, Dealer will not take any action until leak is addressed. Naturally warranty is out, extended warranty doesn’t cover glass replacement / damage caused by leaks. Service guy says he will try to make module replacement covered by extended warranty (purchased at time of the vehicle purchase) ; however if module wires are corroded claim will be denied.
The absolute PISSER is since purchased that Mojave was stored under a large carport except for the 14,360 miles driven & I have NO recollection of EVER driving it in the rain.
Adding insult to injury they also wrote that the after market Auto Stop Eliminator is possibly causing communication issues causing concerns.
This may be the straw that causes me to drive over to GMC dealership to take a closer look at a Canyon.

Update on my fiasco; after spending $600+ to have the rear window replaced dealer now claims that the problem was a faulty axle sensor and some transfer case cable. Thankfully the 5 year 60(?) k mile covered that repair. No more blinking axle locker light (for now). I did have to remove the Auto Stop Eliminator before they would work on it & strangely the auto stop feature has not returned; Not crying about that though FOR SURE!

 

[Trail_Limo_Tim]

BEFORE

AFTER

Not picture perfect, but it looks pretty damn good! I’ll test it for leaks today with the water hose. Very tedious work and has a learning curve. Thanks to all who have come before me to figure this out.

 

[Lost1wing]

Update on my fiasco; after spending $600+ to have the rear window replaced dealer now claims that the problem was a faulty axle sensor and some transfer case cable. Thankfully the 5 year 60(?) k mile covered that repair. No more blinking axle locker light (for now). I did have to remove the Auto Stop Eliminator before they would work on it & strangely the auto stop feature has not returned; Not crying about that though FOR SURE!

Soon you may be starting a thread as to why your Jeep won't start. Could be normal, could be a problem. Don't keep your head in the sand. Figure out if it is normal. Go to your ESS page and see what it says. Undo what it says. No ready, Battery charging? Unavailable? You better take a look at it.

I'm glad you got your sensor problem fixed under warranty.

 

[Trail_Limo_Tim]

Passed the leak test with water hose. Hopefully it stays leak free.

 

[droy]

Soon you may be starting a thread as to why your Jeep won't start. Could be normal, could be a problem. Don't keep your head in the sand. Figure out if it is normal. Go to your ESS page and see what it says. Undo what it says. No ready, Battery charging? Unavailable? You better take a look at it.

I'm glad you got your sensor problem fixed under warranty.

ESS page??? Please elaborate! Does this mean that high$$ second battery is on its way out?

 

[droy]

ESS page??? Please elaborate! Does this mean that high$$ second battery is on its way out?
[/QUOTE
Never mind on the “please update” request; did a search;
appreciate the heads up Lost1wing !

 

[Lost1wing]

ESS page??? Please elaborate! Does this mean that high$$ second battery is on its way out?

It could be nothing. You would need to scroll through the menu with your steering wheel buttons. You will see an ESS page. There are many reasons for ESS not to activate. First off the engine has to be warm. The ESS page will tell you engine not warm. Your steering wheel could be turned. Your ESS will tell you that, as so on. Just undo whatever it says. You may get to a message that says " not ready" or "not ready battery charging". If you see battery charging for ever or for long periods of time, that would be a sign of a battery issue. It does not mean your batteries are bad. It could be your driving habits, improper disconnects, inadvertent discharges or electrical issues. Continuing to drive with a never ending battery charging message will eventually lead to more problems. Examples are, Aux switches unavailable, heated seats or heated steering wheel become inop, avengers light, other flashing lights, a no start and even a shutdown while driving. You will be prompted to safely pull over.

You may also see a message of cabin heating and cooling causing a not ready message. People use this to prevent ESS from activating. By selecting max ac or a temperature higher or lower of actual cabin temp will prevent ESS activation. Your owner manual has more information that you can look at.

 

[Squashead]

I really like this idea. I can't tell from the pics so can someone who has done it elaborate on the bottom of the window. Is there a reason to do it? If so, do you put something in the tube to align the two sides when they meet?

 

[ecidiego]

I really like this idea. I can't tell from the pics so can someone who has done it elaborate on the bottom of the window. Is there a reason to do it? If so, do you put something in the tube to align the two sides when they meet?

I didn't put anything on the bottom. Isn't needed.

 

[Squashead]

I didn't put anything on the bottom. Isn't needed.

Great, thanks. That's what I was hoping. As I was visualizing it, I was thinking the biggest pain would be ending up with the goldilocks amount if the two ends had to meet.

 

[Trail_Limo_Tim]

I really like this idea. I can't tell from the pics so can someone who has done it elaborate on the bottom of the window. Is there a reason to do it? If so, do you put something in the tube to align the two sides when they meet?

FWIW on mine I wasn’t able to get the tubing to fit into the lower gap along the bottom of my window. The gap was much smaller than the top and the farther down the sides I got, the more difficult it was to install as the gap became smaller. I used 7mm silicone hose from Amazon. I have seen at least one person who did bring the tubing all the way across the bottom to meet in the middle. Don’t know exactly what tubing they used. I think it’s in this thread somewhere.

 

[ecidiego]

Here's how mine ends. No leaks in 3 years.

 

[Squashead]

Here's how mine ends. No leaks in 3 years.

Perfect, that's what I'll do.

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