Show me your high mileage 3.6 with oil recommendations !

[ShadowsPapa]

They do test it, thankfully. The specs to meet all these different “licenses” is known to the oil companies… they can test to meet and exceed the standards. But smaller companies like AMSOIL aren’t going to pay $50k-$100K *each* to send their oil to API, GM, Chrysler, Ford, VW, etc so that those guys can test it again just to give their own thumbs up… followed by paying a licensing fee and annual renewal. Then have to do it all over again because they *improved* their oil with the tiniest of tweaks to the formula.

So it is tested, and proven, to meet or exceed the specs - it’s just literally not financially responsible from a business standpoint for a boutique shop to pay that large of a percentage of their revenue. Exxon, Mobil, Pennzoil, etc can afford to pay for the separate, additional tests and licensing fees with pocket change.

Tested on their say so..........

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[DavenFla]

First oil change coming on my new to me Gladiator @50k miles. What brand do you swear by? Im eyeing Amsoil SS 0w 20. I’m under extended powertrain warranty to 2028 So I don’t want to mess around. I want to see real world recs backed by the mileage proof.
yes I have been diagnosed With Oil Derangement Syndrome

You'll get many recommendations. First off... take an oil sample and send it off for analysis. Then match the oil to daily usage. Here's my recommendations. All synthetic oil and I prefer Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. I use Shaffer's oil when towing. long distance with long durations 5W-40.

*Stop and go, not many miles annually, cold to temperate, but use vehicle every day... 0W-20 Change every year at least. Don't go past 5K 0W oil is OK but shears when stressed.

*Commute with highway and local 50/50... 5W-30. If living in cold weather 0W-20 is OK during the cold weather. So 0W-20 in winter,5W30 when warmer. Change oil anytime you get 25% or lower oil life. If you stick with 0W-20 all season change oil more frequently. 5K is fine, but oil sampling will tell you based on science.

*Dirty-dry conditions, combined with towing every day or more than 75%, 5W-40. I've seen oil temps over 240* F on my 3.6 so the 5W-40 oil package functions like 5w-20 to 30 oil at high temperatures. This is based on testing the oil and viscosity at temperature.

So far the oil life monitor ( I did it once down to 3% ) is accurate according to testing.

*Be careful of the advise of the oil Karen's, use sampling, driving conditions always, and in all ways.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Wow, not good info.

I went over 7,000 with 0w20 and the labs came back I could have gone farther.

0W oil is OK but shears when stressed.

WTF? 0W has nothing to do with that. Even a 5w30 can actually end up WORSE than a solid 0w20.
A quality 0w20 can actually hold up better and hold the viscosity than a 5w30 that isn't quite as well formulated,.
A quality 0w20 may actually work better and hold the viscosity better than a heavier oil.
I guess people sleep or daze while watching videos or totally miss the points in them.

The number before the W is the cold weather number. The number AFTER than has zip to do with your climate or weather.

Like so many oil threads - there's a lot of misinformation................ and sadly, people will listen and repeat it.

As far as someone mentioning "5w30 is quieter at startup" - nothing to do with wear or engine longevity. That's a feel-good measure, not that things will last longer. It's lash adjuster bleed-down, and will vary a whole lot anyway. NONE of our 3.6s have ever made excessive noise at startup. They start quiet and run quiet. If noise at startup was an issue - there'd be a ton of engines falling apart.
I run pretty radical ramp cams in my engines - they are "noisy cams"- but they don't wear any more or less.

 

[DanW]

I just noticed that Mobil 1 EP 0w20 in its latest API SQ formula is now rated for 25,000 mile oil change intervals. That´s impressive. I won´t go far like that, but it is still impressive and gives some peace of mind.

If oil prices ever went crazy or there was a shortage like after the BP oil spill, it´s nice to know the oil likely could go that far, especially in a normally aspirated port injected engine.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w20

 

[DanW]

Wow, not good info.

I went over 7,000 with 0w20 and the labs came back I could have gone farther.

WTF? 0W has nothing to do with that. Even a 5w30 can actually end up WORSE than a solid 0w20.
A quality 0w20 can actually hold up better and hold the viscosity than a 5w30 that isn't quite as well formulated,.
A quality 0w20 may actually work better and hold the viscosity better than a heavier oil.
I guess people sleep or daze while watching videos or totally miss the points in them.

The number before the W is the cold weather number. The number AFTER than has zip to do with your climate or weather.

Like so many oil threads - there's a lot of misinformation................ and sadly, people will listen and repeat it.

As far as someone mentioning "5w30 is quieter at startup" - nothing to do with wear or engine longevity. That's a feel-good measure, not that things will last longer. It's lash adjuster bleed-down, and will vary a whole lot anyway. NONE of our 3.6s have ever made excessive noise at startup. They start quiet and run quiet. If noise at startup was an issue - there'd be a ton of engines falling apart.
I run pretty radical ramp cams in my engines - they are "noisy cams"- but they don't wear any more or less.

Yep. I have never seen a UOA on a 0w20 out of the 3.6 that ever showed a significant change in viscosity, even past 7,000 miles, like you. My longest in my JL 3.6 was about 8,000 miles plus change and it showed the oil in good shape with plenty of TBN and well within the 20 weight viscosity range.

 

[Badunit]

0W20 shears down to something thinner than 0W20. 5W30 shears down to something thinner than 5W30. It has a ways to shear before getting to 0 or 20. If 0W20 is already at the bare minimum, 5W30 provides a margin of error. If 0W20 is not the bare miminum, 5W30 provides an additional margin of error.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

0W20 shears down to something thinner than 0W20. 5W30 shears down to something thinner than 5W30. It has a ways to shear before getting to 0 or 20. If 0W20 is already at the bare minimum, 5W30 provides a margin of error.

That's funny - go check out Lake's video on this very thing. A 5w 30 can actually sheer down FASTER to a lower viscosity than a 0w20 depending on the chemistry. He's tested and GRAPHED it. A 5w30 does NOT guarantee it will hold viscosity better than a quality 0w20 - that's oil science he's proven.

 

[Hootbro]

Oil grades have a range that they remain in grade. A lot of XW-30 grade oils are formulated on the lower side of that range. XW-20 by design though are formulated to be more shear stable and stay in grade longer.

The bigger the spread between a multivocality grade oil and the two grade numbers, the more prone to shearing they will be.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I just noticed that Mobil 1 EP 0w20 in its latest API SQ formula is now rated for 25,000 mile oil change intervals. That´s impressive. I won´t go far like that, but it is still impressive and gives some peace of mind.

If oil prices ever went crazy or there was a shortage like after the BP oil spill, it´s nice to know the oil likely could go that far, especially in a normally aspirated port injected engine.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0w20

Sheer stable

 

[Badunit]

That's funny - go check out Lake's video on this very thing. A 5w 30 can actually sheer down FASTER to a lower viscosity than a 0w20 depending on the chemistry. He's tested and GRAPHED it. A 5w30 does NOT guarantee it will hold viscosity better than a quality 0w20 - that's oil science he's proven.

The important word in all that is "CAN". Comparing a poorly formulated 5W30 to a well formulated 0W20 to say 0W20 CAN perform better than 5W30 is disingenuous.

I don't care what oil anyone else uses. 0W20, 5W30, 90 weight gear oil, whatever. Anyone can use whatever they want. And I can't say what is or is not "misinformation" in all these stupid oil threads, just that some things are stated as facts that are not proven facts. I have seen no cold hard facts on either side of the debate that prove either side is right or wrong about the best oil for this particular engine.

EDIT: This thread long ago exceeded its usefulness and is just repetitive. I've said my piece, repeatedly in fact. I have nothing more to add unless some new facts (actual facts) come to light.

 

[DanW]

0W20 shears down to something thinner than 0W20. 5W30 shears down to something thinner than 5W30. It has a ways to shear before getting to 0 or 20. If 0W20 is already at the bare minimum, 5W30 provides a margin of error. If 0W20 is not the bare miminum, 5W30 provides an additional margin of error.

I have not seen a 0w20 do that in my Jeeps in the more than 10 used oil analyses I have done on them. Not one time did a 0w20 sheer out of grade. I ran mostly Mobil 1 EP 0w20, but also a couple runs of Shell Rotella Gas Truck and one with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Most UOA´s were on oil with 7000 to 8000 miles on it. I may have done one at around 3k on the oil when the JL engine was new. That had a lot of shit in it, but the oil was spot-on in the 0w20 range. I´ve done one or two at 5,000 miles.

 

[Stan H]

I have not seen a jeep engineer show proof of such claims of running an engine for thousands of hours. But I just watched Nissan run the 3.8l at redline for 100 hours straight glowing red and didn't fail. I did just do my first oil change at 3600 miles and used pensoil platnium 5w30 and honestly noticed it was slightly less rattly up top. But I think next change I'll just go for the Amsoil 0W-20 Signature Series and just change it ever 4~5k miles and call it good. When I bought my jeep I knew the cams are the week point of the engine and already had my 2020 trailhawk cams @43k miles changed under warrenty. At least the Jeeps can make it off the dealer lot without exploding.. cough GM and Toyota..... I think location and how its driven drives how to maintain your vehicle. If you drive in the city more maybe change it more often because of all the Idling and short trips Contaminating faster with Condensation and gas mixing into the oil than a highway driven truck.

I change mine usually at 10-15% oil life which for me places me at 5500 miles . At 50% I drop in a fresh filter . And then when she hits 10% I change both.
I use wix oil filters. Always have .

 

[DavenFla]

I change mine usually at 10-15% oil life which for me places me at 5500 miles . At 50% I drop in a fresh filter . And then when she hits 10% I change both.
I use wix oil filters. Always have .

The oil life indicator (for my driving habits) proves to be accurate. I did test it "once" by going to 3% of oil life and had the oil tested.
Viscosity index, total TBN, additive depletion, reduction in detergents and dispersants can only be measured by an oil test. Yes there are audible and visual 'clues', but testing is the best way. No need to test every time you change the oil.

In much the same way as there is a maximum towing threshold and to maintain a buffer, it's best not to change your oil at the "0" oil life indication.

 

[DavenFla]

0W20 shears down to something thinner than 0W20. 5W30 shears down to something thinner than 5W30. It has a ways to shear before getting to 0 or 20. If 0W20 is already at the bare minimum, 5W30 provides a margin of error. If 0W20 is not the bare miminum, 5W30 provides an additional margin of error.

That's why oil companies use viscosity modifiers among other ingredients Viscosity modifiers are primarily used to manage temperature-related viscosity changes in lubricants and other fluids, ensuring consistent performance across a wide temperature range. .

 

[DavenFla]

Note: While Mobil 1 was previously used in some Chrysler factories, it is no longer officially listed under current MS-6395 certifications after Chrysler’s re-alignment with specific formulations. There is a list of approved oil. Ensure the oil meets MS-6395 specification and is full synthetic.

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