Jeep Gladiator Rubicon Towing Failure - Sensor Seal Rupture - Disappointed

[Pliny]

Some of ya'll mentioned aerodynamics, so for reference here are pictures of the trailer, the warning light, and the sensor location. For anyone referencing this in the future, I gently pulled the tiny white retainer clip on the sensor cover down and the cap came off easy enough, and it was full of oil.

Here is what my failed rear axle locker position sensor looked like.

You can see that it is half full of gear oil which is what shorts out the components on the tiny circuit board inside it. This is that actual sensor that is inside the differential housing itself. There is a little wiring harness that connects to this sensor that runs up to the back side of that connector bulkehead at the top of the differential housing. That connector bulkhead is also known to fail and leak oil, leading to the wires getting shorted leading to the failure you had. If you're going to fix it yourself, I believe this is the part that you'd be after, but of course confirm it with Benny at forum sponsor allmoparparts.com.

https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-connector-68400411aa

I believe you can replace that bulkhead part without removing the differential cover.

p.s. I approve of your choice of trim, color, and seats This is from one of our trips to Colorado last year.

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[WILDHOBO]

Here is what my failed rear axle locker position sensor looked like.

You can see that it is half full of gear oil which is what shorts out the components on the tiny circuit board inside it. This is that actual sensor that is inside the differential housing itself. There is a little wiring harness that connects to this sensor that runs up to the back side of that connector bulkehead at the top of the differential housing. That connector bulkhead is also known to fail and leak oil, leading to the wires getting shorted leading to the failure you had. If you're going to fix it yourself, I believe this is the part that you'd be after, but of course confirm it with Benny at forum sponsor allmoparparts.com.
Mine was so full the oil was coming out of the connector outside the housing.
https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-connector-68400411aa

I believe you can replace that bulkhead part without removing the differential cover.

p.s. I approve of your choice of trim, color, and seats This is from one of our trips to Colorado last year.

 

[Tank43]

Congrats on the win. Yeah, that trailer looks about as aerodynamic as a brick wall. :P

Ha. Right? But let's face it, Jeeps are not exactly the poster children of aerodynamics.

 

[Tank43]

Here is what my failed rear axle locker position sensor looked like.

You can see that it is half full of gear oil which is what shorts out the components on the tiny circuit board inside it. This is that actual sensor that is inside the differential housing itself. There is a little wiring harness that connects to this sensor that runs up to the back side of that connector bulkehead at the top of the differential housing. That connector bulkhead is also known to fail and leak oil, leading to the wires getting shorted leading to the failure you had. If you're going to fix it yourself, I believe this is the part that you'd be after, but of course confirm it with Benny at forum sponsor allmoparparts.com.

https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-connector-68400411aa

I believe you can replace that bulkhead part without removing the differential cover.

p.s. I approve of your choice of trim, color, and seats This is from one of our trips to Colorado last year.

Thanks for posting that closeup of the sensor and the info. Yes, love that color. We're hoping to make it out to Colorado this Summer.

 

[Tank43]

That sensor went out on me around 28k miles. Dealer replaced it under warranty but I also now have a Z Locker cable under the seat just in case. As for towing, keeping your speed down a little is key especially with anything catching a lot of wind. I actually like the way my JT tows compared to the Fords I’ve owned. Knowing I’m using a small underpowered tow vehicle reminds me to keep the speed down. Driving just 5mph slower keeps the heat down and allows the Gladiator to get better fuel economy than my last F150. It still sucks getting 10 to 11 mpg in the JT but it’s better than the ford getting around 9.

All good to know. Thank you. I appreciate all the advice and input.

 

[Tank43]

That’s a big trailer, whole lot of frontal and it looks like a flat front , only weighs 3200 pounds loaded sounds pretty light for that , had to tow it as is cause it is not yours but a weight distributing hitch would help the experience a lot!
My sensor went bad at 94 miles back in 2020 and used the Z bypass and never looked back everything works fine all the lights light up as they should and locker works, at 59,000 now. Some people here put multiple sensors in ,back in the beginning, the fix was to swap out the whole rear axle. I would go the bypass way and enjoy life!
Lastly crank the tongue jack up all the way on any trailer ,anywhere catching that jack foot on a curb or dip in road would really, really suck.
Awesome the team won and that you supported that!…..Jack

Thanks for the info. The sway and steering were fine, just seemed the engine was working harder than it should. Good to know that is normal for those speeds and towing.

I know, I know. I had trouble getting the tongue jack to go up any higher and had to get on the road.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Thanks for the info. The sway and steering were fine, just seemed the engine was working harder than it should. Good to know that is normal for those speeds and towing.

I know, I know. I had trouble getting the tongue jack to go up any higher and had to get on the road.

This isn't a v8 or an old school I6 or even v6. It's high strung by design. Peak torque is over 4k rpms and peak hp is over 6k. For a rig this heavy towing a trailer you're going to need all the power it can make. Don't be afraid to wind it out. It's the only way that it makes any power.

 

[WILDHOBO]

This isn't a v8 or an old school I6 or even v6. It's high strung by design. Peak torque is over 4k rpms and peak hp is over 6k. For a rig this heavy towing a trailer you're going to need all the power it can make. Don't be afraid to wind it out. It's the only way that it makes any power.

Any engine designed for high rpms is happiest there as well. You won’t break it by letting it run. If anything it will last longer if it spends some time in those ranges.

 

[NC_Overland]

That sensor went out on me around 28k miles. Dealer replaced it under warranty but I also now have a Z Locker cable under the seat just in case. As for towing, keeping your speed down a little is key especially with anything catching a lot of wind. I actually like the way my JT tows compared to the Fords I’ve owned. Knowing I’m using a small underpowered tow vehicle reminds me to keep the speed down. Driving just 5mph slower keeps the heat down and allows the Gladiator to get better fuel economy than my last F150. It still sucks getting 10 to 11 mpg in the JT but it’s better than the ford getting around 9.

You have a diesel? They have a lower tow rating because they overheat when towing. The 3.6ls cooling system does much better. Mine runs hotter in traffic than towing 6k lbs at 65-70, which I’ve done fairly regularly for several years. The coolant, transmission and oil temps never go over 205. In 90 degree temps in Atlanta rush hour traffic, it will hit higher with or without a trailer.

 

[Idlethunder]

You have a diesel? They have a lower tow rating because they overheat when towing. The 3.6ls cooling system does much better. Mine runs hotter in traffic than towing 6k lbs at 65-70, which I’ve done fairly regularly for several years. The coolant, transmission and oil temps never go over 205. In 90 degree temps in Atlanta rush hour traffic, it will hit higher with or without a trailer.

Until a couple weeks ago I was in a 3.6 Rubicon. When towing anything other than a flatbed I’d regularly see all three over 220 driving 65 to 70 and in the heat of summer at times over 240. Having a Tazer helped by turning the fan up to 100%, especially in traffic. Slowing down to 60 on the open highway knocked temps down around 10 degrees across the board.

I always felt like mine ran hot even when not pulling anything. During the summer when empty I’d regularly see 230 on the 20 miles drive to town. My JTR wasn’t setup for towing though. Heavy bumpers with winch, bigger than stock tires and tools in the back definitely didn’t help.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Until a couple weeks ago I was in a 3.6 Rubicon. When towing anything other than a flatbed I’d regularly see all three over 220 driving 65 to 70 and in the heat of summer at times over 240. Having a Tazer helped by turning the fan up to 100%, especially in traffic. Slowing down to 60 on the open highway knocked temps down around 10 degrees across the board.

I always felt like mine ran hot even when not pulling anything. During the summer when empty I’d regularly see 230 on the 20 miles drive to town. My JTR wasn’t setup for towing though. Heavy bumpers with winch, bigger than stock tires and tools in the back definitely didn’t help.

Only when I pull the cargo trailer, I shift manually. My rule is 215 on the tranny. That’s the only screen I look at. If it’s getting close to that, I’m going fast enough.

 

[cb4017]

This is what I'm towing with my JTM. 3.250 pounds gross weight. I keep my highway speeds under 65 mph. Even at that it struggles.

My previous truck was a 23 Colorado ZR2 with the TurboMax engine. I like my Mojave but admit I miss the power and torque of that engine.

 

[WILDHOBO]

This is what I'm towing with my JTM. 3.250 pounds gross weight. I keep my highway speeds under 65 mph. Even at that it struggles.

My previous truck was a 23 Colorado ZR2 with the TurboMax engine. I like my Mojave but admit I miss the power and torque of that engine.

I find that the windage is the biggest problem for me. I can tow a heavy but low open cargo trailer loaded down, much more easily than my 2000lb empty enclosed cargo trailer (7x14).

 

[IamPro2A]

I find that the windage is the biggest problem for me. I can tow a heavy but low open cargo trailer loaded down, much more easily than my 2000lb empty enclosed cargo trailer (7x14).

My open trailer is about 2100lb without a payload. I regularly tow it with another 2000lb of loaded up utv back and forth across the Kanc. The White Mountains don't have as high an overall elevation as say the Rockies, but they do come close in prominence. The Kancamagus Scenic Highway is 35+ miles with an average grade of 4-5%, and several sections at 8-9%. Never have I had an issue with the JTs, but like others, I'll keep the trans temp up and adjust my speed and gear accordingly.

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