I maybe was thinking of optimum . , heck I was burning up in 92 degree temps with no AC and sweating like a whore in church.
You and me both. I was mixing optima quality decline and odyssey parent corp purchase info. This is why I didn’t get into Business.
Op hey at least I got a few letters rightYou and me both. I was mixing optima quality decline and odyssey parent corp purchase info. This is why I didn’t get into Business.
Yep. When you call you get EnerSys, and then transfer to Odyssey. None of the extensions at Odyssey answer or return messages except for sales. It seems like there’s one woman doing everything there because she helped me with the warranty and we talked about how broken their ERP was. This isn’t necessarily indicative of anything. No one wants to pay people.
The problem with the Aux is that they tend to fail and start to kill off the main battery, and they’re dissimilar size. There’s a global shortage of these small AGM batteries and I think the quality is probably terrible. My dealership said failed Aux and main batteries account for their single largest warranty claim issue.
Was just about to buy one of these but they’re out of stock and all the dealers seem to have them drop shipped. Sigh….I went out to the garage and took this picture. As you can see, there is an Odyssey calibration. This particular charger/maintainer/desulfator is connected to the OE batteries in the Jeep Gladiator EcoDiesel, so it's currently set for the standard AGM.
Obviously, I'll switch to the Odyssey function when charging, maintaining, and desulfating the Odyssey battery in the 2015 EcoDiesel.
I have four BatteryMINDers. I keep one mostly hooked up to the Jeep since that gets driven maybe once per month. The second one is rotated between the 2015 and 2020 Ram EcoDiesel. The third one rotates between the John Deere tractor and John Deere lawn tractor. And the fourth one rotates between the dump trailer and travel trailer. These things pay for themselves. So far, I haven't had a battery go bad when using these. My oldest battery is 11 years old.
. Ordered.
I went through a nightmare with my camper and lithiums and Victron and had to get smart on charging profiles. I never really applied that same knowledge/logic to different brands of AGM but it makes sense. My Victron wasn’t even set to a Lithium profile from the factory. I have to go through 2 levels of dongles to get to where I could actually change anything on the charger/inverter. Their management ecosystem sucks. For truly deep settings you need Windows (XP, I think), but I was finally able to create a custom profile for my Renogy batteries. It makes sense, based on their float voltages, that the NOCO isn’t cutting it overnight. The alternator seems to bring the battery back upon start up. I still don’t think the NOCO killed the battery considering that it doesn’t sit undriven for long periods, but it just wasn’t doing much. Also the Odyssey died suddenly.This discussion is has been had many times in this forum and I am too lazy to find the post I made or retype it so I just had AI do it for me
NOCO chargers are fine for generic AGM charging, but they do not follow Odyssey’s charging spec correctly during float/maintenance.
Odyssey AGMs are not normal consumer AGMs. They use thin plate pure lead (TPPL) construction and require a higher charging profile than most chargers provide.
Odyssey’s published spec calls for:
Bulk/absorption: roughly 14.7V
Float/maintenance: about 13.6V minimum, ideally around 13.6–13.8V depending on temperature
Most NOCO Genius chargers drop into a very conservative long-term maintenance voltage, often around 13.2V or lower after the battery reaches full charge. That is intentional for broad compatibility and to reduce overcharge risk across many battery types. The problem is that Odyssey batteries do not like sitting at low float voltage for extended periods.
What happens:
Battery slowly sulfates
Resting voltage gradually declines
Capacity and cranking performance degrade over time
Users think the battery “failed early” when it was actually chronically under-floated
This is why Odyssey themselves historically recommended chargers like CTEK, EnerSys-approved industrial chargers, or other units capable of maintaining the correct float voltage continuously.
CTEK units — especially models with AGM mode — typically maintain a float stage much closer to Odyssey’s required voltage profile. They also use a more appropriate multi-stage algorithm for TPPL batteries.
The result is:
Better long-term state of charge
Less sulfation
Longer service life
Higher resting voltage retention
People confuse “charger says AGM” with “charger is correct for Odyssey TPPL AGM.” Those are not the same thing.
A standard AGM profile:
Works for Optima, Interstate AGM, Duralast AGM, etc.
An Odyssey TPPL profile:
Requires higher absorption and higher sustained float behavior
That distinction matters.
You can still use a NOCO to recharge an Odyssey battery after use. The issue is long-term maintenance/storage charging. If the battery lives on a maintainer for weeks or months, a CTEK is generally the better choice because it actually maintains the voltage Odyssey specifies instead of dropping into an ultra-low standby float.
This is the one I use:
https://www.ctek.com/us/battery-chargers-12v-24v/multi-us-7002
If you have an Odyssey, you put it in the "snowflake" mode which correctly maintains an Odyssey. There is no NOCO that does.
I agree with you, however, if the factory batteries are maintained, then they shouldn't fail prematurely. My 2023 Gladiator EcoDiesel has 7,000 miles on it. It rarely gets driven. And when it does get driven, it goes the distance. Otherwise, it sits for 3 - 6 weeks at a time.
There are three philosophies, and each have their pros and cons.
