Alignment Issue

[beefcake]

I just got back from an alignment shop and I am very confused. They didn't really help the confusion.

I've got a Sport S with Max Tow and last week I installed the Mopar 2" lift with a 3/4 spacer in the front. I also added a Fox steering stabilizer. I couldn't get the tires mounted right away so I was driving it on the stockers. It pulled a little to the right, but not bad at all and I didn't pay much attention to it as I was doing that before the lift. So, I figured the alignment would take care of it and/or the new tires.

So, I take it in today to get the tires mounted and an alignment done. I gave them the recommended specs and the below image is what the alignment came back as. They are saying they can't do anything about the caster or camber, but perhaps a different shop in Pensacola could.

Any advice?? I'm kind of at a loss for what to do from here. I do love the look and the ride other than the slight pull!

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[Wbee]

So where to start:

the only thing you can change on a stock JT or JL is the toe. Everything else is fixed. So let’s tackle it based on what I think is priority.

first, your caster needs corrected. The only way to do this is with adjustable lower or upper control arms. The addition of an extra 3/4 inch up front only amplified the issues. My sweet spot is between 5 and 6 degrees for 35” tires. This is where I would start. I purchased an inexpensive set of rough country Adjustable lower control arms thinking I would swap them out at some point but honestly they have worked really well.

Now that you lifted you JT the front axel shifted to the driver side and you rear shifted to the passenger side. Probably not much judging from your thrust angle, but your axels are out of alignment. You fix it by adding adjustable track bar. I would do this after the adjustable control arms when you have the money. Fix the rear trackbar last.

I hate to be a negative poster, so I apologize in advance. The Mopar kit is inadequate and I know by experience. I had to add adjustable lower control arms a new trackbar up front. I put in a bracket to correct the rear trackbar. This was on my JL and it now drives better than New. Too bad the Mopar kit didn’t come with all of this to begin with but I’m sure they were trying to hit a price point. I decided not to use the Mopar kit on my JT for the above mentioned issues.

I’d be glad to answer any questions if you need help. I’m not an expert but I have plenty of experience.

 

[beefcake]

I figured I would need the adjustable track bar, but I wanted to wait and see how it was after the lift. Subsequently I have already ordered that and it will be here tomorrow. Easy fix there.

I had a feeling the control arms had something to do with it. Can you tell by the numbers whether it is the upper or lower causing the problem? For example, if its the lowers would going back to the stock correct this or is it the opposite direction (longer). Just unsure how to read it exactly.

How about the camber? I'm guessing that the camber is most of what is causing the pull to the right...? Thoughts?

 

[kevman65]

Going to make a suggestion, because people seem to miss this when doing a lift.

Raise your Jeep and put it on stands, loosen (not remove) all control arm nuts/bolts, lower Jeep back down to full weight on suspension, and tighten all control arm nuts and bolts.
Repeat on rear.

The bushings in the OEM control arms are solid and have no rotational movement. When one does a lift, they are putting stress on these bushings and the arms are locked into the incorrect position.

This may or may not help, but it won't hurt and will take the stress off the bushings.

 

[beefcake]

Going to make a suggestion, because people seem to miss this when doing a lift.

Raise your Jeep and put it on stands, loosen (not remove) all control arm nuts/bolts, lower Jeep back down to full weight on suspension, and tighten all control arm nuts and bolts.
Repeat on rear.

The bushings in the OEM control arms are solid and have no rotational movement. When one does a lift, they are putting stress on these bushings and the arms are locked into the incorrect position.

This may or may not help, but it won't hurt and will take the stress off the bushings.

Ya know, I've been thinking about this because while I replaced the lowers, I did not loosen the uppers. Additionally, per directions I torqued them down while lifted rather than under the weight of the vehicle. Of course, I'm not sure how I'll be able to torque it in the driveway without it being on the jack stands, but I can figure it out.

I do wonder how much of a difference that might make due to the bushings as you mentioned. It is a great idea in my opinion!

 

[kevman65]

Ya know, I've been thinking about this because while I replaced the lowers, I did not loosen the uppers. Additionally, per directions I torqued them down while lifted rather than under the weight of the vehicle. Of course, I'm not sure how I'll be able to torque it in the driveway without it being on the jack stands, but I can figure it out.

I do wonder how much of a difference that might make due to the bushings as you mentioned. It is a great idea in my opinion!

I can't remember which one, because I have read so many, but the instructions for installation on one of the aftermarket lift kits includes doing this. It only makes sense when realizing that the OEM control arms aren't designed to move where most aftermarket control arms are designed to move in a vertical motion.

But it does look like you need an adjustable track arm, do yourself a favor and get one that can be adjusted without removing an end from bracket.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Others who installed the Mopar 2" lift kit have complained about theirs pulling to the right as well. Just for reference, I installed the Readylift SST 2.5" lift kit on my, running 315 70 17 BFG KO2s and no adjustable track bar yet. Mine doesn't pull a bit. The shop that installed mine done the alignment as well. I don't have the spec sheet but it drives straight as a arrow.

 

[Wbee]

Kevman makes a great point that may make a difference.

you can go with either adjustable upper or lower the end effect To caster is the same. Adjustable lowers are easier to install and adjust in my opinion.

I hate to suggest people run out and blow a bunch of money on aftermarket parts so Kevman makes a great point. There also nothing worse than a new vehicle the won’t drive right.

 

[beefcake]

Others who installed the Mopar 2" lift kit have complained about theirs pulling to the right as well. Just for reference, I installed the Readylift SST 2.5" lift kit on my, running 315 70 17 BFG KO2s and no adjustable track bar yet. Mine doesn't pull a bit. The shop that installed mine done the alignment as well. I don't have the spec sheet but it drives straight as a arrow.

I had read that actually. I don't believe it is a result of the lift though as it was doing this before the lift. Glad to hear your lift is working great! Always nice to hear about other satisfied jeepers!

When deciding on my lift I had to weigh all the pros and cons. I read through so many threads my eyes were crossed. The biggest thing I was looking for was to maintain the factory ride or better. Mopar was the only one who seemingly guaranteed that based on reviews. I know ride quality is subjective so I had to make the best decision I could given the information I had. I figured there would be things I would need to add in order to dial in so that was calculated into my decision. In the end, I'm still happy with my decision. I just need to tweak it a bit.

Kevman makes a great point that may make a difference.

you can go with either adjustable upper or lower the end effect To caster is the same. Adjustable lowers are easier to install and adjust in my opinion.

I hate to suggest people run out and blow a bunch of money on aftermarket parts so Kevman makes a great point. There also nothing worse than a new vehicle the won’t drive right.

I agree. I'm going to go ahead do that when I get my adjustable track bar in tomorrow. I'll just leave it on the ground, loosen, and re-torque everything. Shouldn't be too bad. I may need a longer extension though....lol.

 

[Renegade]

I figured I would need the adjustable track bar, but I wanted to wait and see how it was after the lift. Subsequently I have already ordered that and it will be here tomorrow. Easy fix there.

I had a feeling the control arms had something to do with it. Can you tell by the numbers whether it is the upper or lower causing the problem? For example, if its the lowers would going back to the stock correct this or is it the opposite direction (longer). Just unsure how to read it exactly.

How about the camber? I'm guessing that the camber is most of what is causing the pull to the right...? Thoughts?

You can do either longer lower arms, or shorter upper arms to increase your caster angle. Going back to stock would make it worse. That said, have you driven it on a road which “crowns” to the left, to see if it then pulls to the left?

 

[beefcake]

You can do either longer lower arms, or shorter upper arms to increase your caster angle. Going back to stock would make it worse. That said, have you driven it on a road which “crowns” to the left, to see if it then pulls to the left?

Got it. Thanks, that helps me better understand the numbers.

Not yet. So far I’ve only driven the 5 miles home from the shop. I’ll be driving 50 miles round trip for work tomorrow on various types of roads so I’ll be able to get a much better feel for it then.

 

[beefcake]

You can do either longer lower arms, or shorter upper arms to increase your caster angle. Going back to stock would make it worse. That said, have you driven it on a road which “crowns” to the left, to see if it then pulls to the left?

After the long drive today I can say that the left crowning road either straightened it out or pulled slightly left depending on how steep the crown was.

When I got home today I installed the adjustable track bar to center the axle. I also loosened and re-torqued the front UCA and LCA. I can't say I noticed a difference in the pull after doing that. I still need to do the rear, but I'm doubtful that would solve the issue.

At some point after the holiday I'll bring it in to get the alignment checked again to see if the loosening and re-torquing did anything to the caster. Then go from there.

I'm still wondering how to adjust my camber as I feel like that is the bigger issue in terms of the pull. Anyone have anything on this?

 

[Wbee]

Just don’t let an alignment shop talk you into adjustable ball joints to fix the camber. I would Address the caster issue first. The more caster you have the easier it is for the wheels to return to center and the jeep track straight. Low caster can make the steering feel twitchy and react to the slightest change in the road surface in extreme cases. Also, as the caster changes the camber will also change to some degree so you should probably address the caster first. Good luck!

 

[Renegade]

After the long drive today I can say that the left crowning road either straightened it out or pulled slightly left depending on how steep the crown was.

When I got home today I installed the adjustable track bar to center the axle. I also loosened and re-torqued the front UCA and LCA. I can't say I noticed a difference in the pull after doing that. I still need to do the rear, but I'm doubtful that would solve the issue.

At some point after the holiday I'll bring it in to get the alignment checked again to see if the loosening and re-torquing did anything to the caster. Then go from there.

I'm still wondering how to adjust my camber as I feel like that is the bigger issue in terms of the pull. Anyone have anything on this?

Centering the axle and re-torquing the bolts will not change your caster or camber. Jeeps have certain driving characteristics. Following the crown of the road is kind of one of them. Camber is not adjustable unless you change the ball joints, which typically isn’t necessary.

 

[beefcake]

It’s Prob your stabilizer. They can push to the right You need a pass through kind. I learned the same way after three alignment shops lol

I’ve heard that before but I guess I didn’t really even think about it this time.aside from buying a stabilizer with the flow thru design, is there a fix to this?

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