Installed the oem brake controller

[Mkcagle]

Does anyone know what the Dealers are charging to install?

I was quoted $150 yesterday.

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[Mkcagle]

By golly, you got it.
Still not impressed with this thing, though. It doesn't light at night, and it's not ready for primetime, either - don't even think about touching that button if the truck is running!
The bloody thing is NOT isolated from the brake lights and will light up your dash like a Christmas tree and disable 4 things - stability control/traction control, ESS, collision prevention, etc.
The only way to recover is shut down and restart.

I'm so not impressed and so upset with this thing, how cheap it's made, how cheap and not smooth the dial feels, the fact if you touch that button it triggers cluster faults, and more - I'm just this close to ripping it out, putting the Redarc back and trashing this thing.
It was a very expensive mistake.

Redarcs solution to the feedback issue

 

[JLMOPARMAN]

Mine did not light when I turned the lights on.
I'm EXTREMELY disappointed and not sure I'm going to even keep it.

You need to hit the decaf.... it shows right on the instructions that it only lights up with a trailer connected.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You need to hit the decaf.... it shows right on the instructions that it only lights up with a trailer connected.

You missed my main points - you obviously only read and responded to the part you wanted to see - and ignored what many of us are facing with an untested controller.

As far as the lighting up part -several folks said it would have a backlight so I was expecting that. So not a big deal - minor compared to the fact it's screwing up Jeep electronics.
In the grand scheme - I didn't really give a rip about the backlight because no other controller does - Redarc only shows the colored LED, no backlight at all trailer or not. I mentioned it because some said they were hoping for lights. On the other hand, no trailer, you don't need to find it anyway.
(it would also help if the instructions were sized like normal text, not like legal disclaimers on drug commercials)

So that's what you concentrated on - and not this part??? You missed the reason I said I was disappointed, aside from it being cheaply made with extremely light cheap plastic parts half the quality of controllers half the price.

Here's the bigger problem -

 

[krweatherl]

They exist wayyyyyy more complex than I imagined . 67 steps..... correction only 21 steps if you have the 7 pin in the back already and installed pic added. Install was a nightmare multiple issues ,ill explain soon

1. There is a control box that gets mounted under the dash, in the instructions its pictured with the wiring ports towards the mounting studs on the backing plate. Mine was mounted opposite out of the box . I flipped mine to match pics in instructions as it made it easier to plug in wires and I am concerned that it functions by momentum as you stop and increase based on that. I did test with a volt meter after install and on level 10 if I push trailer brake button I get 12v , if brakes are pushed sitting in garage I get about 5 , I assume that's because of no forward momentum. Hopefully flipping mine to match instructions was correct . If anyone could please unbox and take a picture to show how yours is I would appreciate it.

2. This was the worst and took hours to realize and overcome. Instructions have you install the number knob on face of dash first with number 1 facing up , then clip on the dial box to the back side, makes since. Mine would not clip together at all never felt completely correct. Finally after trying forever I took everything back out of the jeep and tried installing it to itself outside of the dash. I then realized the box had to be rotate all the way counter clock wise to be in position 1, which mine was. I then realized the knob had different sized groves and could only slip over the splined center shaft of the box only one way. When mine would slip on correctly number 4 was at the top and it would then only rotate a few clicks as it would hit a stop. After further inspection I realized the splined center shaft was clipped together and could be clocked. I had to take apart the center splined shaft and rotate it 90 degrees to have it in the proper position for number 1 to be at the top when the box was in position one. This was nerve racking as its small cheap plastic and very easily breakable. After doing this I went back to the jeep and everything went right together smoothly.

Hopefully this was a fluke and only mine was made wrong , but if this was made by a machine then its clocked wrong and there is about to be a lot of upset people.

I am so glad I read this. Mine had the exact same clocking problem that you detailed in step 2, if it weren’t for reading this I doubt if I would have figured it out. Just installed mine today, received it about two weeks ago so either it’s old stock or they don’t know they have an assembly line issue. Anyway thanks to your post I only lost 10-15 minutes reclocking the shaft.

 

[Althescal]

I just finished installing one in mine. It definitely wasn’t easy, but having the information that was posted here and a video on YouTube that I found definitely helped some. I guess I got lucky as there was no clocking problem. The instructions were not too helpful imho. My biggest snags were in trying to remove the 12V socket without damaging it too much. It was way tighter than I expected it would be. The other hurdle was having to be a contortionist to work in such a cramped space.

 

[EAST_TX_GLADIATOR]

Before I call Redarc to order one of their units, which one were you guys already using. Sorry for all your headaches with the Mopar unit, but I don't think I want any part of it.
Thanks....

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Before I call Redarc to order one of their units, which one were you guys already using. Sorry for all your headaches with the Mopar unit, but I don't think I want any part of it.
Thanks....

If you have a 2021 you won't have any problem with the MOPAR version.
If you have a 2020 built before January 8, 2020, you will have problems even with the Redarc or Curt.
It's not a controller issue, it's a truck issue.
(and their instructions were goofy stating that a wiring harness was needed - ignore that bit)

Since you have a later truck, a 2021, you won't have problems with ANY brake controller, even the MOPAR unit will fit and work perfectly.

In short, the issue is now a non-issue.

The REDARC unit I purchased, and have since removed to put the MOPAR controller in, was a fine unit. The only thing I noted was that the Cat5 network cable they supply was a snug fit back of the controller knob. I could have used one of the Cat5 cables I had but didn't so I had a resolution and simply didn't use it. But that was a tiny "annoyance" to my OCD side and not any sort of an "issue".

THIS is what I ordered - but you could easily use the one a level below this one as this is actually over-kill in most cases -
https://redarcelectronics.com/products/tow-pro-elite-electric-brake-controller

I also used this to make it look more like a factory install where the 12v outlet was - and I filled the lettering in with white -
https://redarcelectronics.com/products/switch-insert-to-suit-gmc-isuzu

 

[IamPro2A]

I'm still floored that not only doesn't the brake controller come with the Max Tow package, it's not even an option to order it with the truck. I'm even more floored that in 2021 the oem brake controller doesn't integrate into the vehicle display/menu system.

Is there any reason at at all to go with the Mopar controller over easier to install aftermarket options?

 

[Mr._Bill]

I'm still floored that not only doesn't the brake controller come with the Max Tow package, it's not even an option to order it with the truck. I'm even more floored that in 2021 the oem brake controller doesn't integrate into the vehicle display/menu system.

Is there any reason at at all to go with the Mopar controller over easier to install aftermarket options?

For that 'Factory Option' look. I wasn't willing to give up the 12v outlet, and bought the Curt Spectrum controller.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm still floored that not only doesn't the brake controller come with the Max Tow package, it's not even an option to order it with the truck. I'm even more floored that in 2021 the oem brake controller doesn't integrate into the vehicle display/menu system.

Is there any reason at at all to go with the Mopar controller over easier to install aftermarket options?

I guess I could never figure out why it should integrate. The most you'd get would be the setting you were at - and can see that at a glance, or if the thing is working - again, you can see that at a glance.
So I guess I am left wondering - what's the gain by having it display in the cluster since it's right there to see? Am I missing something? What's gained? Functionality?

Not coming installed automatically and not as an option with max tow - I can see why. There are other controllers (such as the REDARC) that have other options for off-road, etc. that may be more desirable. To get it - not as a choice but automatically as part of any tow package, I can see it makes sense not to simply include it.
It's comparable to the $150 Redarc, where the $200 Redarc is a more capable controller with two modes. The MOPAR controller is a single mode controller. Max tow people may just want a more capable controller.

As far as the not coming as a factory installed option, I get that - why not? Chevy does and has for a decade at least.
It should at least be an option - factory installed - for, say, $250.

I will suggest this - it SHOULD trigger the truck's and trailer's brake lights when in manual mode. It's stupid that you can push that button, apply trailer brakes but the trailer lights will not come on unless you press the truck's brake pedal. THAT is stupid, especially since California requires trailer brake lights to glow EITHER WAY, push the button for trailer brakes only, or during normal use. But with ANY after-market controller AND the MOPAR controller (likely a repackaged 3rd party) the trailer brake lights do NOT come on when you press the button to apply trailer brakes.

So, I may have just explained WHY the MOPAR controller does not come factory installed! It would violate California law. They can't include it with max tow - against CA law, and can't include it as an option - also against CA law.

 

[Mr._Bill]

I guess I could never figure out why it should integrate. The most you'd get would be the setting you were at - and can see that at a glance, or if the thing is working - again, you can see that at a glance.
So I guess I am left wondering - what's the gain by having it display in the cluster since it's right there to see? Am I missing something? What's gained? Functionality?

Not coming installed automatically and not as an option with max tow - I can see why. There are other controllers (such as the REDARC) that have other options for off-road, etc. that may be more desirable. To get it - not as a choice but automatically as part of any tow package, I can see it makes sense not to simply include it.
It's comparable to the $150 Redarc, where the $200 Redarc is a more capable controller with two modes. The MOPAR controller is a single mode controller. Max tow people may just want a more capable controller.

As far as the not coming as a factory installed option, I get that - why not? Chevy does and has for a decade at least.
It should at least be an option - factory installed - for, say, $250.

I will suggest this - it SHOULD trigger the truck's and trailer's brake lights when in manual mode. It's stupid that you can push that button, apply trailer brakes but the trailer lights will not come on unless you press the truck's brake pedal. THAT is stupid, especially since California requires trailer brake lights to glow EITHER WAY, push the button for trailer brakes only, or during normal use. But with ANY after-market controller AND the MOPAR controller (likely a repackaged 3rd party) the trailer brake lights do NOT come on when you press the button to apply trailer brakes.

So, I may have just explained WHY the MOPAR controller does not come factory installed! It would violate California law. They can't include it with max tow - against CA law, and can't include it as an option - also against CA law.

Wasn't the TSB for the ABS supposed to fix that problem? You would also need to swap the controller harness for one without a diode in it, for things to work correctly.

 

[EAST_TX_GLADIATOR]

If you have a 2021 you won't have any problem with the MOPAR version.
If you have a 2020 built before January 8, 2020, you will have problems even with the Redarc or Curt.
It's not a controller issue, it's a truck issue.
(and their instructions were goofy stating that a wiring harness was needed - ignore that bit)

Since you have a later truck, a 2021, you won't have problems with ANY brake controller, even the MOPAR unit will fit and work perfectly.

In short, the issue is now a non-issue.

The REDARC unit I purchased, and have since removed to put the MOPAR controller in, was a fine unit. The only thing I noted was that the Cat5 network cable they supply was a snug fit back of the controller knob. I could have used one of the Cat5 cables I had but didn't so I had a resolution and simply didn't use it. But that was a tiny "annoyance" to my OCD side and not any sort of an "issue".

THIS is what I ordered - but you could easily use the one a level below this one as this is actually over-kill in most cases -
https://redarcelectronics.com/products/tow-pro-elite-electric-brake-controller

I also used this to make it look more like a factory install where the 12v outlet was - and I filled the lettering in with white -
https://redarcelectronics.com/products/switch-insert-to-suit-gmc-isuzu

Awesome! Appreciate the actual links. Finally read through all 35 pages of the other thread where folks were actually doing all the troubleshooting FOR FCA! Though newer JT don't have the issues, still planning on going the Redarc route instead. This is a great place and you guys ROCK.when it comes to sharing info. Thanks again.

 

[KVJ]

Is there any reason at at all to go with the Mopar controller over easier to install aftermarket options?

The best reason not to go with the OEM controller is because using an aftermarket you can say it's a "MOD". Everybody makes changes to just about every piece on their trucks, but when it comes to the brake controller they want an OME.
So as @ShadowsPapa said:

Am I missing something?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Still trying to figure out where the "easier to install" part comes in on the after-market controllers. I've done both and there's about the same work involved with any of them in the end.
Main difference I see is that the MOPAR version doesn't allow a small drilled hole to mount the knob, but if you were using the 12v outlet position, then installation is a wash for either type.

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