Proximity door locks retrofit on Wrangler/Gladiator, someone figured it out (DIY writeup)

[ShadowsPapa]

Considering temperature may be a factor for the bolt sheering on the 2021s...now I'm FOR SURE waiting until next Spring/Summer. LOL

I must admit...these parts are burning a hole in the box just wanting to be installed, but I was selfishly waiting for you other guinea pigs to post your results first.

I have been looking over at my Javelin each time I enter or leave my shop - man, it is SOOO tempting to spend 30-45 minutes getting all the stuff I have piled on the roof (dash and cluster parts, sill plates, etc.) off and into the trunk and reconnecting the battery and spending time getting it started (it's been sitting since about last April or May) and move it out so I can get my JT into the warm shop and let the infrared heater work on warming it up. My shop heater heats things, and the floor, not the air, so after an hour of being in my shop, if the heat has to run, you can touch the roof or hood and it will be warm.
I have another ceramic infrared I could aim at the door after the panel is off to really warm things up.
It's so tempting, but do I take all that time to move things around? So much other stuff to do......

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[Dave210]

Just a suggestion but what if you take a soldering iron and hold on the bolt to warm up the bolt only?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Just a suggestion but what if you take a soldering iron and hold on the bolt to warm up the bolt only?

I have a 260/200 watt gun and was wondering the same thing.

 

[gt3mike]

Just a suggestion but what if you take a soldering iron and hold on the bolt to warm up the bolt only?

I have a 260/200 watt gun and was wondering the same thing.

I'd be super nervous about accidentally melting the plastic clips that the bolts are securing.

 

[mmatthie]

Just a suggestion but what if you take a soldering iron and hold on the bolt to warm up the bolt only?

Yeah the Mopar instructions don't say anything about "you may have to burn off the thread lock" LOL...oh wait...there are no instructions

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'd be super nervous about accidentally melting the plastic clips that the bolts are securing.

Yeah, that's one of those things - I'll decide when I pull the panel off. Who knows, mine may come loose just fine. If not, I'll deal with it when I get there. I also fear broken bolts after all these years - spending 10 extra minutes has often saved me 30-60 minutes (or more) later. I'm generally NOT a patient person, but........... after getting beat up by broken bolts a few times, I finally learned.
I guess we'll see.

 

[drBassman]

Yeah the Mopar instructions don't say anything about "you may have to burn off the thread lock" LOL...oh wait...there are no instructions

I had read that others had snapped these bolts. When I installed mine, I cringed the entire time I was loosening those bolts. I purposely used an old-school, manual socket wrench and S-L-O-W-L-Y, but firmly loosened the bolts -- the front one 3-4 turns, then the back one 3-4 turns, alternating back and forth until each was FULLY removed.

I was fortunate and didn't have any issues. Your experience may vary.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I had read that others had snapped these bolts. When I installed mine, I cringed the entire time I was loosening those bolts. I purposely used an old-school, manual socket wrench and S-L-O-W-L-Y, but firmly loosened the bolts -- the front one 3-4 turns, then the back one 3-4 turns, alternating back and forth until each was FULLY removed.

I was fortunate and didn't have any issues. Your experience may vary.

That's always my methods when there's any sort of a locker used or the bolts are old with any oxide at all. A little bit out, a little back in again, like 2 steps forward, 1 step back, 3 steps forward, 2 steps back, until it's loose.
I cringed with the power tools being used to take those specific bolts loose - not me - hand tools only. I don't use such tools around plastic and nylon parts anyway.

 

[drBassman]

That's always my methods when there's any sort of a locker used or the bolts are old with any oxide at all. A little bit out, a little back in again, like 2 steps forward, 1 step back, 3 steps forward, 2 steps back, until it's loose.
I cringed with the power tools being used to take those specific bolts loose - not me - hand tools only. I don't use such tools around plastic and nylon parts anyway.

Given that, it is surprising that you snapped one of yours...

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Given that, it is surprising that you snapped one of yours...

I haven't. I haven't broken any bolt in a long time except one in a starter I was sent to restore (the bolt was one of the "through bolts" in a Ford 4 1/2" starter and was rotted 1/3 of the way through - I let it break on purpose so I could mill out the remains, and on a wiper motor that was so rusty, I ended up tossing it in the garbage.
Naw, I'm thinking about mine while it sits in the cold garage - do I spend time getting my Javelin to move out of the shop so I can get my truck in and do this task, or wait for warmer weather?

I am watching with interest and curiosity, though, to see how many do get broken to assess my risk factor.
I have also wondered about replacing those black round sticky covers with something more substantial like PLUGS for those handle access holes. On my cars, they are either rubber bumpers that fill those holes, or in the case of some, a plastic plug that pushes into the hole. Do I like the round tape cover enough, or want something else? I guess it depends on how well it comes off - then goes back on and stays that way LOL I've got a heck of an assortment of body plugs and clips and such. .

I look over at this car in my shop - geesh, I would love to do the task in a heated area with GREAT light and where all of my tools are. Or, as my wife says - if I'd finish the customer car restoration in the other bay - that would leave me an open bay....... women just have to be right all the time, dang it.

 

[AllMoparParts.com]

[
any idea when the last remaining orders should be filled. I ordered mine Nov 24. Just curious, I know it will
Be awhile. Thank you

Hi Corey,
I know they are still shipping some of what we received but PM me your order # so I can look more precisely.

- Benny

 

[Mowat]

I have been looking over at my Javelin each time I enter or leave my shop - man, it is SOOO tempting to spend 30-45 minutes getting all the stuff I have piled on the roof (dash and cluster parts, sill plates, etc.) off and into the trunk and reconnecting the battery and spending time getting it started (it's been sitting since about last April or May) and move it out so I can get my JT into the warm shop and let the infrared heater work on warming it up. My shop heater heats things, and the floor, not the air, so after an hour of being in my shop, if the heat has to run, you can touch the roof or hood and it will be warm.
I have another ceramic infrared I could aim at the door after the panel is off to really warm things up.
It's so tempting, but do I take all that time to move things around? So much other stuff to do......

hehe to all that are worried about the cold.. Um just take the doors off and take them inside. Do it in the living room.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

hehe to all that are worried about the cold.. Um just take the doors off and take them inside. Do it in the living room.

*Uh - did you MISS the whole discussion on this? It was mentioned and discussed in several posts a week or so ago.
And removing the doors is actually as much work as doing the job outside. Nothing saved! It's like "pull the engine so you can take it inside and change the spark plugs"
There's as much work taking doors off as there is doing the work - and then you've just added more time to the process.
What about the time spent removing hinge bolts, straps, hefting heavy doors?

By the time you take 'em off and carry them in, protect your new oak wood flooring (and move furniture around (it's a SMALL house, 1,100 square feet) carry them out of the garage through the snow, up the steps, through the doors, and maneuver through the house..
I bet I could have one half done by the time I got a door off and maneuvered into the house and tools in place.
But I'm repeating myself - it's all been said before.
Old joke.

 

[Mowat]

*Uh - did you MISS the whole discussion on this? It was mentioned and discussed in several posts a week or so ago.
And removing the doors is actually as much work as doing the job outside. Nothing saved! It's like "pull the engine so you can take it inside and change the spark plugs"
There's as much work taking doors off as there is doing the work - and then you've just added more time to the process.
What about the time spent removing hinge bolts, straps, hefting heavy doors?

By the time you take 'em off and carry them in, protect your new oak wood flooring (and move furniture around (it's a SMALL house, 1,100 square feet) carry them out of the garage through the snow, up the steps, through the doors, and maneuver through the house..
I bet I could have one half done by the time I got a door off and maneuvered into the house and tools in place.
But I'm repeating myself - it's all been said before.
Old joke.

haha I truly did just only go back 2 pages.. i'm just jealous my garage doesn't have heat.

 

[Kevin_D]

Just a suggestion but what if you take a soldering iron and hold on the bolt to warm up the bolt only?

Second thing to try.
The heat gun is my first weapon of choice.

And yes, when I got on those bolts with the ¼"-drive ratchet, I started working them back & forth, to no avail. Whatever that green stuff is, it's really tough!

Kevin

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