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Key fob isn't big enough... I guess

j.o.y.ride

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It's not difficult to take apart. The seats are 4 hets nuts and the center console is 4 10mm. 12 bolts and the whole thing is open.
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Jonny A

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If I loose my FOB now you guys brought this to my attention......
 

Gvsukids

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I hate bumping old threads...but rather than start a new thread ranting about what seems to have happened to multiple folks I'll bump this int he hopes that it helps some one else.
Thanks for not cluttering the forum with another thread.

For about $1.25- $1.65, there is a way to.....

Anyway, just take a piece of foam pipe insulation, cut it the proper length and squeeze it into the space between the front seat (drivers side and passenger side) and the center console.
What thickness?
 

jimbom

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It's not difficult to take apart. The seats are 4 hets nuts and the center console is 4 10mm. 12 bolts and the whole thing is open.
If you meant "hex" nuts, mine are neither hex nor nuts. Mine are bastard male torx head bolts that require a torx socket that no Lowes or Home Depot in my city carries. I had to order the right socket on Amazon and fortunately got it the next day.

Jeep Gladiator Key fob isn't big enough... I guess IMG_6559
Jeep Gladiator Key fob isn't big enough... I guess IMG_6565
 

Alans17

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If you meant "hex" nuts, mine are neither hex nor nuts. Mine are bastard male torx head bolts that require a torx socket that no Lowes or Home Depot in my city carries. I had to order the right socket on Amazon and fortunately got it the next day.

IMG_6559.jpg
IMG_6565.JPG
That’s messed up. I have assume they do that for the people that park with their doors off? Why else would they make it so hard? But then why use standard torx to take off the top?
 

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j.o.y.ride

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That’s messed up. I have assume they do that for the people that park with their doors off? Why else would they make it so hard? But then why use standard torx to take off the top?
Mine have those too. I let Armorlite know that my bolts were different than their install directions. They called up Jeep and I guess the machine that has torx female screws kept breaking bits. You will even see some Jeeps with different male and female on the same truck.

I had all like you did, the torx driver worked well. So did a socket but torx is ideal to not round off.
 

jimbom

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Mine have those too. I let Armorlite know that my bolts were different than their install directions. They called up Jeep and I guess the machine that has torx female screws kept breaking bits. You will even see some Jeeps with different male and female on the same truck.

I had all like you did, the torx driver worked well. So did a socket but torx is ideal to not round off.
I discovered this when I went to install my Innovative/ARB under-seat compressor. Hoping to get the install done that day and I couldn't even get past STEP 1, removing the seats. Arrrrggggg.

Their instructions, geared for a Wrangler, called out a regular T50 torx so I contacted them to ask what size socket was needed for the Gladiator. They had a customer's Gladiator in their shop for an install and that one had fasteners that matched the Wranglers they were used to. I don't think they believed me until I sent a photo like I posted here.

Edit: I just looked at their website and now they do call out either the T50 or E12 socket.
 
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Gvsukids

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@Gvsukids
I used black, pipe insulation that has an outside diameter of 1.5 inches. I used an 11 inch long piece alongside side of both drivers seat and passenger seat.
What is the inside diameter?
 

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I hate bumping old threads...but rather than start a new thread ranting about what seems to have happened to multiple folks I'll bump this int he hopes that it helps some one else.

If I can sum up my experience of dropping my giant fob into the one area you just cant' get it out of into just a few words screw what ever twisted angry engineer developed this black hole into which the fob will perfectly fit into, but your hand never will.

This happened to me out in the woods and while trying to retrieve the fob my friend who had the smallest hands in our group set off the panic alarm. After 10-15 minutes somehow it emerged enough for her to shut it off and then is went back into the abyss. After trying sticks and magnetic tools, parking on a hill and trying to rock the jeep to dislodge the key, I ended up driving 40 minutes to the closest place that had e-torx so I could remove my seat and get the damn fob. All in all about three hours of anger and rage, which after 10 minutes of removing my passenger seat passed. I have filled that void so hopefully it doesn't happen again, but man oh man...what a flawed design.
One more reason to opt for proximity door lock, key nvr leaves my pocket
 

IPB13

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It's not difficult to take apart. The seats are 4 hets nuts and the center console is 4 10mm. 12 bolts and the whole thing is open.
Oh I agree once I got the E-Torx sockets, which are not easy to find, it was easy...but what a hassle in a brand new vehicle!
One more reason to opt for proximity door lock, key nvr leaves my pocket
I have that and all the bells and whistles in my JTR, but hate the giant fob in my pocket, not to mention it always pops open. I'm going to order the aftermarket fob case so its smaller and that will stay in a pocket.
 

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kooltoys

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Oh I agree once I got the E-Torx sockets, which are not easy to find, it was easy...but what a hassle in a brand new vehicle!

I have that and all the bells and whistles in my JTR, but hate the giant fob in my pocket, not to mention it always pops open. I'm going to order the aftermarket fob case so its smaller and that will stay in a pocket.
My work van key stays on my hip with a d-ring,, I would do the same if I could take the physical key off the FOB.. should probably look into doing just that
 

IPB13

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Higher_Ground

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Having had this happen the first time with a french fry, I gave up after a few minutes and decided to be more careful eating in the vehicle.

Next time it happened with you guessed it... the key fob. Lucky for me it was open, and I could still grasp it enough to carefully wedge both hands between the seat and console and slowly pull it up, hoping it wasn't going to disappear forever.

I keep a washcloth/rag to wipe off condensation and dust in my door pocket. I went ahead and rolled it up and shoved in in the spot between the seat and console. Working perfectly so far and frees up space in the door net.
 

Gvsukids

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I have that and all the bells and whistles in my JTR, but hate the giant fob in my pocket, not to mention it always pops open. I'm going to order the aftermarket fob case so its smaller and that will stay in a pocket.
Just take the spring out. It's never opened up in me after doing that easy mod.
 

jimbom

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For those looking for a Star Socket Set, Female Torx Socket Set, this set is very decent quality and priced right. Case they come in is decent too..

When working on newer vehicles (especially, Euro's) a set like this is a must.

MAXPOWER 1/4-Inch Drive Star Socket Set, Female Torx Socket Set, 7 Pieces, Cr-V, E4-E11 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GFD2YD...abc_VW6790YV1SM2DFRDHGR4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But you need an E12 to remove the seats! This set only goes up to E11. And 1/4 inch drive is a bit whimpy. To get the back seat out I needed the long handle of my 1/2 inch drive (w/ a 3/8 adapter) to loosen some of those bolts.

I opted for a full set of male and female torx:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082WMZH9L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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