6 Speed Manual Regrets?

[seven30]

After all the negative postings concerning manual/clutch I did have some anxiety purchasing the 6spd. Not sure how all that BS got started but is ANYONE having any clutch/tranny issues? At 5500 miles I think mine has settled into its long term feel and I like the light pedal. Plus its easily to control. Shifting is likewise very pleasant. I shift using my wrist and fingers so Im not sure what M/T meant when describing the shifter as long throw. I did mess up a shift recently when I wanted to drop from 6th to 3rd and hit 5th by accident but that's on me.

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[DanW]

After all the negative postings concerning manual/clutch I did have some anxiety purchasing the 6spd. Not sure how all that BS got started but is ANYONE having any clutch/tranny issues? At 5500 miles I think mine has settled into its long term feel and I like the light pedal. Plus its easily to control. Shifting is likewise very pleasant. I shift using my wrist and fingers so Im not sure what M/T meant when describing the shifter as long throw. I did mess up a shift recently when I wanted to drop from 6th to 3rd and hit 5th by accident but that's on me.

For all the concern, both here and on the JL forum, I've only seen one or two with actual serious problems, and I'd have to dig to find them. I know one guy who has had two replacements, which tells me his issue is somewhere else in the driveline, and it never was, nor did he report it to be, a clutch issue.

I just passed 47k miles of pure bliss with this thing. I'll be quick to report if an issue comes up, but I'm not expecting it. It drives exactly the same as when new. I've not met anyone in person who has one who has anything but praise for it.

It's a typical 21st century problem. Like battery anxiety with smart phones. Clutch anxiety. And it comes from reading these threads on internet forums, not ususually from the transmission itself. It also comes from 2 recalls, even though they address a very simple problem that showed up on literally a handfull of Jeeps.

You have to remember that every single engine, transmission, make, and model of vehicle has problems that you can find on forums. Every one of them. Because they are made by imperfect beings.

The good news is that if you do have a problem, the forums are a great help. But they can also be unnerving.

Just know this. The transmission is made by Aisin. They have a VERY good rep in the industry. Toyota at one time even owned 51% of them, and still might. If the clutch ever does cause a bother, there is an aftermarket option.

So toss the worries in the garbage and go for a drive. It'll put a smile on your face!

 

[DanW]

After all the negative postings concerning manual/clutch I did have some anxiety purchasing the 6spd. Not sure how all that BS got started but is ANYONE having any clutch/tranny issues? At 5500 miles I think mine has settled into its long term feel and I like the light pedal. Plus its easily to control. Shifting is likewise very pleasant. I shift using my wrist and fingers so Im not sure what M/T meant when describing the shifter as long throw. I did mess up a shift recently when I wanted to drop from 6th to 3rd and hit 5th by accident but that's on me.

Lol, I've had lots of fun with MT over some of thier silly commentary on both the JL and JT manual. They are good car dudes who saw a video I made lambasting them for repeatedly stalling a preproduction manual JL Rubicon in New Zealand. I told them they'd been so accustomed to paddle shifting Ferraris and dual clutch BMW autos that they'd forgotten to drive an honest to goodness REAL manual transmission, in spite of an extremely short first gear. I saw an interview once where one of them was asked about my video. The MT writer laughed and said, "He's probably right."

For the record, my wife, other than one incident where she was mistakenly in 3rd gear, has never stalled my JL, even with 35" tires. Never. Actually, when she tried to start in 3rd, she didn't stall it, either. She just smoked the shit out of it. (Uggg.) So anyone who thinks this tranny or clutch is fragile doesn't realize it has passed that terrible test. My brother in law did the same thing, too. So it has passed that horrible test twice. Nothing fragile about it. I was almost crying as I saw the smoke when bro-in-law did it. Fortunately, I didn't witness my wife doing it. My neighbor did and said it was like a US Navy WWII destroyer laying down a smoke screen. It turned my stomach hearing about it. My Jeep was brand new when both did this. The clutch is still perfectly fine.

 

[redriderjf87]

Thanks for the info, this thread has been helpful, as I will be the market later this year and am a manual die hard (learned on a 97 ranger 4 banger, been manual ever since).

I'm looking at ordering a Sport S, my main hangup was 3.73 vs 4.10 and how doable it is in normal 65-70 mph driving (don't plan on going big tires anytime soon). I was hoping for 4.10s but I don't think it was possible or feasible to spec the last time I looked. But I think either way, some of the feedback here has calmed my concern.

Only other question I saw come up was reverse being taller than necessary and having to watch the clutch use if you're backing up a hill or something. I don't really see myself in that situation very often though.

 

[Rex3rd]

Thanks for the info, this thread has been helpful, as I will be the market later this year and am a manual die hard (learned on a 97 ranger 4 banger, been manual ever since).

I'm looking at ordering a Sport S, my main hangup was 3.73 vs 4.10 and how doable it is in normal 65-70 mph driving (don't plan on going big tires anytime soon). I was hoping for 4.10s but I don't think it was possible or feasible to spec the last time I looked. But I think either way, some of the feedback here has calmed my concern.

Only other question I saw come up was reverse being taller than necessary and having to watch the clutch use if you're backing up a hill or something. I don't really see myself in that situation very often though.

I've went back and forth on the 3.73 or 4.10 gears as well and the only way you can get 4 .10 is to go rubicon or regear. Depending on which trim it's cheaper just going with the rubicon if your wanting just the basics. I have plenty of time to day dream of getting one but I still go back and forth on it.

 

[seven30]

Thanks for the info, this thread has been helpful, as I will be the market later this year and am a manual die hard (learned on a 97 ranger 4 banger, been manual ever since).

I'm looking at ordering a Sport S, my main hangup was 3.73 vs 4.10 and how doable it is in normal 65-70 mph driving (don't plan on going big tires anytime soon). I was hoping for 4.10s but I don't think it was possible or feasible to spec the last time I looked. But I think either way, some of the feedback here has calmed my concern.

Only other question I saw come up was reverse being taller than necessary and having to watch the clutch use if you're backing up a hill or something. I don't really see myself in that situation very often though.

I bought a Mojave to get the manual with 4.10 but it would cheaper to install 4.58/4.88 later on. I noticed reverse is higher but its not been an issue. I will mention that the clutch engagement zone was somewhat vague for the first couple of weeks gradually becoming better defined.

I also notice scant difference running in 5th vs 6th MPG wise so 6th is sort of the flat cruise gear.

 

[Fortus]

The OP probably made his\her decision already, but here it goes for those on the fence:

Test drive a manual and if you like it, buy it. I had my mind set on a manual-transmission truck (Tacoma or JT). I couldn't find an M/T Tacoma to test drive, so I drove a JT Rubicon M/T (first time driving a Jeep ever).

I was very impressed with the JT overall, and with the M/T itself, but the combination of JT + M/T did not do it for me. But that's just me: The last M/T I drove was a BMW E90, and prior to that a Mazda RX-8 . So, I went in with the wrong expectations, the aforementioned vehicles were at least 1000 pounds lighter than the JT, so there was no comparison. Right after the M/T JT, I test drove an 8-speed auto JT and I was sold as soon as we pulled out of the dealer's lot.

 

[Deleted member 39643]

Thanks for the info, this thread has been helpful, as I will be the market later this year and am a manual die hard (learned on a 97 ranger 4 banger, been manual ever since).

I'm looking at ordering a Sport S, my main hangup was 3.73 vs 4.10 and how doable it is in normal 65-70 mph driving (don't plan on going big tires anytime soon). I was hoping for 4.10s but I don't think it was possible or feasible to spec the last time I looked. But I think either way, some of the feedback here has calmed my concern.

Only other question I saw come up was reverse being taller than necessary and having to watch the clutch use if you're backing up a hill or something. I don't really see myself in that situation very often though.

You can shift into 6th and climb low hills at 60, you are just kinda gutless most of the time. Bigger issue has to do with shift spacing. Generall you want to be below 3000 rpm while being above 2000 rpm for best feel, which doesn't give you much space to work with. If you drive behind auto drivers on a 1 lane road they will constantly slow down for no reason and cause you to run high in one gear or low in the next. Still you get all the great manual shifting feel.

 

[be77solo]

Have a couple thousand miles on my Willys sport manual now (3.73's), totally happy with the MT and would buy it again without any hesitation.

I drove both, and for what a Jeep is, it just fits the experience so much better for me. If I wanted an automatic, I'd go buy another Tundra (which I LOVED as well).

But, I've been driving manual transmissions for 25 years, some dig it, others don't.

 

[MtnRanger]

After all the negative postings concerning manual/clutch I did have some anxiety purchasing the 6spd. Not sure how all that BS got started but is ANYONE having any clutch/tranny issues? At 5500 miles I think mine has settled into its long term feel and I like the light pedal. Plus its easily to control. Shifting is likewise very pleasant. I shift using my wrist and fingers so Im not sure what M/T meant when describing the shifter as long throw. I did mess up a shift recently when I wanted to drop from 6th to 3rd and hit 5th by accident but that's on me.

I have 1200 miles on my 6MT willy's edition. my review of transmission would be the same for forward gears but I stall on reverse almost every 1 in 5 times.

 

[Jt-wrx]

Thanks for the info, this thread has been helpful, as I will be the market later this year and am a manual die hard (learned on a 97 ranger 4 banger, been manual ever since).

I'm looking at ordering a Sport S, my main hangup was 3.73 vs 4.10 and how doable it is in normal 65-70 mph driving (don't plan on going big tires anytime soon). I was hoping for 4.10s but I don't think it was possible or feasible to spec the last time I looked. But I think either way, some of the feedback here has calmed my concern.

Only other question I saw come up was reverse being taller than necessary and having to watch the clutch use if you're backing up a hill or something. I don't really see myself in that situation very often though.

4:10 for 33's, 4:56 for 35's, 4:88 for 37's, so if you know you're going to 35's or 37's eventually you are re-gearing anyway, the 4.10's fine for 35's and the auto, but the manual want's what i just said minimum...lots go 4:88 for 35's and 5:13 for 37's if they are building heavier rigs and do lots of offroad...i run manual sport with 4:88's and 37's and i kept my build very sporty, stock bumber, no winch, minimal...and i love it, it's quick, it holds gears in cruise on highway now, i tow up to 3000 lbs plus an extra few hundred lbs in the truck. If i had all sorts of heavy steel bumpers and skids, and winch, and rock sliders etc. then i'd probably feel i should have gone 5:13's...so if you plan to build a piggie overland type offroad beasty then you are now informed which way to go. The auto is more flexible as it has a broader gearing range plus shifts for you, the manual you need to be more specific.

And to another poster, yes 5th and 6th are both overdrives, not very far apart. Get your axle ratio matched to your tires though and they are all very usable. I was getting by with 35's and 3:73 on the street but useless offroad or to even bump a trailer up onto a curb, or steep incline start...needed 4-low. Now i haven't even seen 4-lo. Not necessary for 99.9% of what i do. Can't recommend strongly enough how much better it is to drive with axle ratios correct for the tire height!

 

[seven30]

4:10 for 33's, 4:56 for 35's, 4:88 for 37's, so if you know you're going to 35's or 37's eventually you are re-gearing anyway, the 4.10's fine for 35's and the auto, but the manual want's what i just said minimum...lots go 4:88 for 35's and 5:13 for 37's if they are building heavier rigs and do lots of offroad...i run manual sport with 4:88's and 37's and i kept my build very sporty, stock bumber, no winch, minimal...and i love it, it's quick, it holds gears in cruise on highway now, i tow up to 3000 lbs plus an extra few hundred lbs in the truck. If i had all sorts of heavy steel bumpers and skids, and winch, and rock sliders etc. then i'd probably feel i should have gone 5:13's...so if you plan to build a piggie overland type offroad beasty then you are now informed which way to go. The auto is more flexible as it has a broader gearing range plus shifts for you, the manual you need to be more specific.

And to another poster, yes 5th and 6th are both overdrives, not very far apart. Get your axle ratio matched to your tires though and they are all very usable. I was getting by with 35's and 3:73 on the street but useless offroad or to even bump a trailer up onto a curb, or steep incline start...needed 4-low. Now i haven't even seen 4-lo. Not necessary for 99.9% of what i do. Can't recommend strongly enough how much better it is to drive with axle ratios correct for the tire height!

What is your thought for 33's and towing? Im 4:10/manual with minimal extras. It getting just at 23 mpg at 7000 feet 65-70 mph currently but Im thinking 4:56 would not make much difference in that regard.

 

[Jt-wrx]

What is your thought for 33's and towing? Im 4:10/manual with minimal extras. It getting just at 23 mpg at 7000 feet 65-70 mph currently but Im thinking 4:56 would not make much difference in that regard.

it's perfect imo...

it will be awful close to me with 4:88's and 37's, i run about 2800-3000 rpm in 4th at 64 mph (104 km/h) or in 5th i'm around 75 mph (120 km/h) and same rpm range, the 2nd stage fuel pump comes on a little over 3000 rpm, but it'll go all day in 4th at 64 mph and cruise control on single stage oil pump and about 13 mpg (18 l/100 km) about and only have to come off cruise for the bigger water crossing valleys, or...you jump on the gas as you head up to a solid incline and get the speed up another 10-15 mph as you hit the hill

i'm very happy with my set up, i've towed all over alberta now, the only thing i haven't done is towed over the mountains and the passes etc. but thats coming up early july, i'm sure you'll see some more reports on that here mid july as i update on the gearing and also the timbren helpers etc.

 

[Jt-wrx]

well gents (and i use that term loosely ), i just installed the Timbren 3000 lb helper springs on rear of the mopar lifted glad, without the included spacer, i have just about 1" clearance to the stop plate...they want 1/2" to 1 1/2" so i'm right there in the middle, full tank of gas and my toolbox/recovery boards etc. in box, the factory jouncer had about 3" clearance fyi....so for those who use this as a truck more than offroad flex machine...the timbren could be the hot ticket for us tow guys

i'm pumped, i'll be hitching up tomorrow to take my rig in for some spray foam roof/floor insulation as final step in the four season adventure pod build, i'll have more to report on these shortly, but it's looking like my 'sag' is about to be no more

 

[seven30]

well gents (and i use that term loosely ), i just installed the Timbren 3000 lb helper springs on rear of the mopar lifted glad, without the included spacer, i have just about 1" clearance to the stop plate...they want 1/2" to 1 1/2" so i'm right there in the middle, full tank of gas and my toolbox/recovery boards etc. in box, the factory jouncer had about 3" clearance fyi....so for those who use this as a truck more than offroad flex machine...the timbren could be the hot ticket for us tow guys

i'm pumped, i'll be hitching up tomorrow to take my rig in for some spray foam roof/floor insulation as final step in the four season adventure pod build, i'll have more to report on these shortly, but it's looking like my 'sag' is about to be no more

Well I think that description deserves some pictures!

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