Manual Transmission Club

[Bbannongmu]

I wonder if that stall point is what was modified in the latest manual trans TSB?

Not sure. The stall really seems like physics at work - the mass /inertia of the rotating parts is not enough to sustain forward movement/keep the engine moving above the stall point so it stalls. I haven’t had the latest recall - the flash done. I’ll compare to the Centerforce soon after breaking it in. Also this spot with the hill is near a hunting blind and we are in the height of Rut so the test and video are delayed a bit until/unless we get a buck. Don’t want to scare them off.

Sponsored

 

[hjdca]

Not sure. The stall really seems like physics at work - the mass /inertia of the rotating parts is not enough to sustain forward movement/keep the engine moving above the stall point so it stalls. I haven’t had the latest recall - the flash done. I’ll compare to the Centerforce soon after breaking it in. Also this spot with the hill is near a hunting blind and we are in the height of Rut so the test and video are delayed a bit until/unless we get a buck. Don’t want to scare them off.

.... Also, lower gears, like 5:13s change the feel of the stock clutch. 1st gear and reverse can go without stalling. My truck will start bucking way before stalling, but, if you tap the gas pedal really fast without pressing it, it will dribble enough gas in the motor to keep you going very slow without bucking. I use this technique a lot in heavy traffic or 4wheeling. Note: I have not done the recall yet.

 

[Bbannongmu]

.... Also, lower gears, like 5:13s change the feel of the stock clutch. 1st gear and reverse can go without stalling. My truck will start bucking way before stalling, but, if you tap the gas pedal really fast without pressing it, it will dribble enough gas in the motor to keep you going very slow without bucking. I use this technique a lot in heavy traffic or 4wheeling. Note: I have not done the recall yet.

Yeah. The stock test is with 5.13 gears. I think they help a lot but not enough. I think the clutch will be the icing on the cake.

 

[jimbom]

we don't want it to because too low of an RPM can excite the dual mass flywheel and damage it.

Would you please elaborate/explain in more detail on this. What do you mean by "excite?" Is it some kind of harmonic resonance that happens at low RPM?

 

[Ball_Ze]

Would you please elaborate/explain in more detail on this. What do you mean by "excite?" Is it some kind of harmonic resonance that happens at low RPM?

Here's way more than you want know on DMFW setups.

One thing I can't find is a good explanation of why low speeds are bad for them, other than that they are probably out of the design range of the damping springs and overload the assembly. Wish I could offer a better explanation than that, but I do know my company has a low RPM limit that they'll cut ignition to preserve the flywheel.

 

[Cape taco12]

I have my recall next week… if this thing stalls easier that’s going to suck. I was moving my boat (4500lbs) total trailer length with mast about 35 feet, in tight quarters at night. I stalled so many times. 4low was binding a lot and ruining feedback I kept thinking I was bumping something which is not ideal in a yard squeezing next to a Hinckley.

So i already want to figure out how to do a 2low mod by disabling that FAD. But if this center force makes it like a truck clutch v civic im going to want one.

 

[jimbom]

So i already want to figure out how to do a 2low mod by disabling that FAD. But if this center force makes it like a truck clutch v civic im going to want one.

Not at all sure, but maybe the Taser can give you 2low?

 

[DanW]

I'm reading all this stuff about stalling and am just scratching my head. It just has never been an issue with my Jeep, even before re-gearing. Not in the rocks, not in the mud, nowhere.

Maybe with the taller gearing of a Sport or Sahara? Even then, I'm just wondering why.

 

[NachoRuby]

Not at all sure, but maybe the Taser can give you 2low?

No, it doesn't. Would be nice sometimes to have.

I'm reading all this stuff about stalling and am just scratching my head. It just has never been an issue with my Jeep, even before re-gearing. Not in the rocks, not in the mud, nowhere.

Maybe with the taller gearing of a Sport or Sahara? Even then, I'm just wondering why.

Agreed. I haven't had a stalling issue either. I haven't really had any issues. But my truck already had the recall done when I got it, so it could be that the recall solved whatever issue there was, or it could be gearing (I have the 4.1s). Even on 35s, no stalling, no sluggishness, no power issues. I wonder how much difference the 3.73s make? Or for that matter, if I'd be even happier on 4.56s?

 

[Bbannongmu]

I'm reading all this stuff about stalling and am just scratching my head. It just has never been an issue with my Jeep, even before re-gearing. Not in the rocks, not in the mud, nowhere.

Maybe with the taller gearing of a Sport or Sahara? Even then, I'm just wondering why.

I never stalled when driving on 4.10 gears and 37s or with the stock clutch. The test I’m doing is clutch out, no gas and up a 20 degree hill with 5.13 gears to see if it will climb it.

 

[Bbannongmu]

I have my recall next week… if this thing stalls easier that’s going to suck. I was moving my boat (4500lbs) total trailer length with mast about 35 feet, in tight quarters at night. I stalled so many times. 4low was binding a lot and ruining feedback I kept thinking I was bumping something which is not ideal in a yard squeezing next to a Hinckley.

So i already want to figure out how to do a 2low mod by disabling that FAD. But if this center force makes it like a truck clutch v civic im going to want one.

Gears help too. I never stalled with 4.10s but had to drive too fast in reverse to get the trailer moving. Now with 5.13 i can back slower. Haven’t towed with Centerforce clutch yet - I will once break in is done. I can already tell it is going to do pretty well since the engagement is better.

 

[DanW]

No, i

Agreed. I haven't had a stalling issue either. I haven't really had any issues. But my truck already had the recall done when I got it, so it could be that the recall solved whatever issue there was, or it could be gearing (I have the 4.1s). Even on 35s, no stalling, no sluggishness, no power issues. I wonder how much difference the 3.73s make? Or for that matter, if I'd be even happier on 4.56s?

I had mine for over 2 years before recall 1 and over 3 years at recall 2. It feels the same as always. Neither recall changed a thing. The only difference is the little indicator on the dash. Not even 54k miles has changed the feel. It's the same as when new. In fact, it may be the most consistent clutch I've owned in terms of feel over the years and miles. But time will tell. I intend to keep this thing until I croak which, God willing, will be awhile.

 

[NachoRuby]

I had mine for over 2 years before recall 1 and over 3 years at recall 2. It feels the same as always. Neither recall changed a thing. The only difference is the little indicator on the dash. Not even 54k miles has changed the feel. It's the same as when new. In fact, it may be the most consistent clutch I've owned in terms of feel over the years and miles. But time will tell. I intend to keep this thing until I croak which, God willing, will be awhile.

Slightly different subject in this MT thread: So for a guy who does occasional wheeling, stock jeep on 35s, with lots of Appalachian mountain driving, and a good bit of city too, would you recommend the stock 4.10s, 4.56s, or 4.88s? In other words I'm looking for the best all around ride. Good off road, on road, and in the city/highway. I think I have a good setup now (stock on 35s), but I feel like it could be even better. I dont plan on a lift for *vertically challenged spousal reasons, so other than more armor underneath to give me some confidence off road, and a winch, my truck will remain largely stock.
*Wife is 5'2, and can barely get in now.

 

[Puttyandnapalm]

Slightly different subject in this MT thread: So for a guy who does occasional wheeling, stock jeep on 35s, with lots of Appalachian mountain driving, and a good bit of city too, would you recommend the stock 4.10s, 4.56s, or 4.88s? In other words I'm looking for the best all around ride. Good off road, on road, and in the city/highway. I think I have a good setup now (stock on 35s), but I feel like it could be even better. I dont plan on a lift for *vertically challenged spousal reasons, so other than more armor underneath to give me some confidence off road, and a winch, my truck will remain largely stock.
*Wife is 5'2, and can barely get in now.

I’d go for 4.88
I’m in the mountains of west md, and have 4.56 with 34s.

 

[SteveInOrlando]

I did consider south bend but all I saw was another dual clutch /dual mass flywheel (complicated) clutch and I was looking to go to heavier flywheel, a gripper clutch to simplify and improve offroad and towing. My Centerforce clutch is in and I’m breaking it in now. So far it’s great - it engages lower in the pedal travel and more positive. I can backup without throttle. Once the break in is done I’ll find some time to do the 20degree hill test and offroad test to report back. Here is the stock clutch in a 20degree hill at idle for the before video.

I love my truck with my Centerforce clutch. Night and day difference. I was so fed up with it before, it is now #2 best vehicle in my life. With Dave's Magnuson tunes, it is quickly closing in on #1.

Sponsored