Called my dealer for a regear quote…

[ShadowsPapa]

Whats funny is that I told my wife i scheduled my appt to get 5.13's put in this weekend, and told her the break in process, and her first thougth was the same, "Why do you have to do that if its not needed in new cars?"

Never have.
All I do is what's always been recommended - no towing for the first 500 miles.
Otherwise, I drive 'em. I've done all of my own differentials and some for others - typically in cars that get abused, no failures.

I figure if I can go over 40 years with quiet differentials and no failures, I can go another 40 doing them exactly as I was taught in college.

I've also heard the synthetic vs. non-synthetic hypoid lube stuff and guess what I'm running in both differentials in my SX4 and in the differential under my Javelin......... synthetic.

Here's from the pros - those that supply and repair high-end machinery and gears -

Synthetic lubricants have a lower friction coefficient in a gearbox, better film strength and a better relationship between viscosity and temperature (viscosity index, VI).
(OK, that tells me they are good at reducing friction and we already know it's the film strength that's important)

And yet there's this from a company -
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/files/PDF Files/ecgs-gear-oil-recommendation1.pdf

So who to believe? You can pick 2 people that have "done it for 20 years" and you may get two different opinions on the lube to use. Each will say "0 failure rate" and each will be correct.

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[CrazyCooter]

Never have.
All I do is what's always been recommended - no towing for the first 500 miles.
Otherwise, I drive 'em. I've done all of my own differentials and some for others - typically in cars that get abused, no failures.

I figure if I can go over 40 years with quiet differentials and no failures, I can go another 40 doing them exactly as I was taught in college.

I've also heard the synthetic vs. non-synthetic hypoid lube stuff and guess what I'm running in both differentials in my SX4 and in the differential under my Javelin......... synthetic.

Here's from the pros - those that supply and repair high-end machinery and gears -

Synthetic lubricants have a lower friction coefficient in a gearbox, better film strength and a better relationship between viscosity and temperature (viscosity index, VI).
(OK, that tells me they are good at reducing friction and we already know it's the film strength that's important)

And yet there's this from a company -
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/files/PDF Files/ecgs-gear-oil-recommendation1.pdf

So who to believe? You can pick 2 people that have "done it for 20 years" and you may get two different opinions on the lube to use. Each will say "0 failure rate" and each will be correct.

That's some crazy opinions on the ECGS .pdf! Seems like putting that out there could bring lawsuit from people with deep pockets!

Funny they would recomend Lucas.......That's the last oil I would use! Every diff I've opened with Lucas installed from the local quick lube looks like a thick foam? My thought is that air bubbles don't provide any film cushion?

I also used to install Mobil 1 since it was easy to get from the local supplier, but had many diffs (not new gear installs) come back over 2-3 years with oxidized oil and bearings trashed.......Walked away after that. Also had personal experience with Mobil 1 motor oil puking out of every seal and exhuast after a break-in oil change......Swapped back to Delo and problem solved? Swore off synthetics for years and then got into Amsoil......same engine didn't burn or leak with it? Hmmmm

 

[CrazyCooter]

If you guys want some more reading.......look into WS2 powders! Another thing that some consider snake oil, but how can you argue with 10x slicker than moly? Can't use it in a clutch type posi or motorcycle that shares engine/trans oil, but our mechanical selectable locking diffs in the Rubi's? Hmmm

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That's some crazy opinions on the ECGS .pdf! Seems like putting that out there could bring lawsuit from people with deep pockets!

Funny they would recomend Lucas.......That's the last oil I would use! Every diff I've opened with Lucas installed from the local quick lube looks like a thick foam? My thought is that air bubbles don't provide any film cushion?

I also used to install Mobil 1 since it was easy to get from the local supplier, but had many diffs (not new gear installs) come back over 2-3 years with oxidized oil and bearings trashed.......Walked away after that. Also had personal experience with Mobil 1 motor oil puking out of every seal and exhuast after a break-in oil change......Swapped back to Delo and problem solved? Swore off synthetics for years and then got into Amsoil......same engine didn't burn or leak with it? Hmmmm

Yeah, at first glance I was thinking hey, maybe they really know........... and then I read further into that pdf. UH, yeah, ok........... That's sort of my point on some of this - a lot "depends on who you ask".

I hate doing things twice, and when it's a customer thing, I have to guarantee it (and even if I were to take care of something, in their mind - it didn't hold up) so I go by what I was taught, what I learned in the shops I worked in, and the factory training I was sent to. Much of youtube I take with a grain of salt - it's money and it's clicks and social mediocre has everyone wanting "likes" and "hits" more than anything. Right or wrong - that's what's important these days.

I've used Mobil 1 motor oil for years. Never any leaks and never any problems. It's currently in my 4.0 - I was going to keep running biosyn in that one too but decided it was too expensive and my luck has been great with Mobil 1. (still have biosyn in my Javelin - I had to readjust the carburetors after switching to it in that car as the engine RPM kept climbing after I changed to that oil - hmmm, wonder why the idle RPM climbed?
But since I started with Mobil 1 in my built 4.0 on day one, the very first oil, and have had zero issues since day 1, that's what I've decided to stick with for that one. No leaks, doesn't burn oil, the xtreme cam seems to like it, runs good and gets good mpg. Spark plugs after almost 35,000 miles still are burning clean with no indications of oil consumption.

When I rebuilt the rear differential in my SX4 I switched to synthetic in it and when I changed the fluid in the front differential, I went with synthetic in that one as well - although at about 193,000 miles on the front differential I've decided it's time to take it out, tear it down and do a full rebuild on it like I did the rear. If I find something unusual, I'll evaluate from there but it's quiet and there's no leaks so I expect nothing weird.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

I have 37" KO2s on my JTRD.
I want to get the rpm range back to near factory with an eye on restoring some mpgs and minimizing excess strain on the factory drivetrain.

It seems as though 4:10s are the closest option but would there be any benefit to going 56s?

 

[CrazyCooter]

I have 37" KO2s on my JTRD.
I want to get the rpm range back to near factory with an eye on restoring some mpgs and minimizing excess strain on the factory drivetrain.

It seems as though 4:10s are the closest option but would there be any benefit to going 56s?

Tons of diesel specific gear discussion on the forums if you search for it.

 

[Pescatoral Pursuit]

Tons of diesel specific gear discussion on the forums if you search for it.

 

[redriderjf87]

It seems as though 4:10s are the closest option but would there be any benefit to going 56s?

Don't know anything about the diesel, but my rule of thumb is never fear the gear.

And the Liar Liar references will never get old. Great movie

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