Any rms issues?
Rear main seal. It seems somewhat common down here in Florida that a long (stuck) dip in stagnant sandy/muddy water is followed by a slow oil leak from the rms.Rms?
I'll bet that took a while to dry out ?
Not yet.Rear main seal. It seems somewhat common down here in Florida that a long (stuck) dip in stagnant sandy/muddy water is followed by a slow oil leak from the rms.
I got stuck in the mud. Could not back up or go forward. I tried for a while. I had A/T tires at the time. M/T tires might have helped.I'll bet that took a while to dry out ?
Why were you stuck?
Its funny that you mentioned using chain. Friends of mine had a vegetable farm and every tractor had a length of chain under the seat, along with some starting fluid and PB Blaster. Galvanized chain can sit in a puddle for a year and still be 100% if needed. But it doesn't have much spring to it. ha.Something I've given some thought to:
Pulling things out of the mud on the farm wasn't uncommon, and I've broke a couple of very heavy chains with a 4x4 tractor trying to pull my other tractor out of mud on a side hill. So I know the dangers and risks, etc.
The front tow hooks if used properly, I see the biggest issue in some cases being the fact they are open on the rear. Something can slip off if there's any slack or if there's a rebound, something is bound to slip off that hook.
What about drilling a hole vertically through the back of the hook so you could insert a pin in effect closing that gap so straps or other "items" couldn't simply slip off the hook backwards?
It would have no impact on the strength of the hook because you pull at the front and not the back end of the top of the hook. Unless you try to lift the truck up by the hooks and catch that back end of the hook's finger, you've done nothing to compromise the strength of the working part of the hook.
Wouldn't take much to hold things in place from slipping off......
Comments??
As long as you don't make the leverage point any higher up off the bumper than the belly of the hook the leverage is exactly the same. Though I agree with you that directly in-line would be ideal.I think you're overlooking one of the biggest differences: stock hooks come up from the bumper, eyelets/shackles come out from the bumper. For that reason alone I'm not surprised that there is no "factory replacement" to swap the hooks out for eyelets. The leverage point is all wrong for that type of use.
Look at the factory rear bumper hook. That is how you want eyelets to be mounted. In line, facing outward (not upward).
Hooks in that location on the front are fine for lighter duty. If you want eyelets and shackles for heavier use, you need to mount them somewhere else anyway, so factory location replacement makes no sense. You don't want the force that shackles are made to work with to be translating through a 90 degree mount point. You want it linear to the direction of force being applied.
This is the same reason recovery is recommended through the rear hook, not the fronts. The fronts are not going to be able to hold up to as much force as the rear one.
Don't the front ones bolt to the frame also?just generally be carefully when replacing tow points. the rear ones are attached to the frame I think and I would only mess with these or the front ones as part of complete and fully tested bumper solution. FWIW I have used mine a lot this year with no issues both sides for pulling others and getting winched or better held by a winch ?
@Benbean66 , look familiar?Rausch Creek 10/10/21 The spotter who told me to go left is about to winch me out.![]()
At that spot is some super deep, super sticky mud. It looks a lot easier than it is. It's rated black, and the bypass to the right is blue or green.I'll bet that took a while to dry out ?
Why were you stuck?
Seems like the least he could doRausch Creek 10/10/21 The spotter who told me to go left is about to winch me out.![]()
