guys who did own lift install

[AXISJT]

I have a full lift and tires soon on the way after the first shipment was stolen. Anyway, I plan to do the install with some buddies but I have heard there is a particular bolt on the diesel that is almost impossible to get out because of the placement of the emissions equipment. I haven't really seen anything on this so can anyone who has installed their own lift the easiest way to deal with it or how you personally dealt with it?

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[staying_tuned]

I installed both the AEV spacer kit (spacers, extended end links all around etc.) and then pulled the spacers in favor of their 2.5" RS diesel springs. Added JKS adj. track bar to get the front axle back to center with Falcon 3.1 shocks which involved an aux battery relo. I honestly can't think of a single step where more than one person would be extremely helpful unless they are skilled enough to run tandem on the opposite side you're working on. If you have a bottle (or stock scissor jack) getting the springs out and new ones in is pleasant compared to other platforms. I have spring compressors but never needed to pull them out.

The only bolt that I wouldn't want to wish on anyone would be the passenger side UCA location which needs to be pulled to fit the correction brackets. This may not be the case for you because the geo brackets aren't standard. Anyhow, if you do plan to run them, I didn't need to remove anything extra but it was a doozy. It comes out about 1" before it hits a heat shield. With 2" inches needed to clear, what I did was rotate the UCA down once the first portion of the bolt end was loose, once angled the bolt will then want to ride above the heat shield BUT only if a flat portion of the bolt head is aligned just right to ride over the shield and even then, you have to insert a small diameter screwdriver and rubber mallet/finesse it out. I realize none of this gibberish will make much sense right now but when you're under there, it will.

 

[Rubi-Zero]

Cut the bolt to remove it. Then when you replace it, install the opposite way. I’ll see if I can locate a video showing to do just that.

 

[Chance575]

It’s not that bad to get out.

 

[AXISJT]

Thanks guys I appreciate all the input hopefully doesn't give me too much trouble worst case scenario I can always Jeremy Clarkson it

 

[hjdca]

I installed a Clayton 3.5" overland Plus kit on my Gas JT Rubicon Manual, so, I cannot help on the diesel... but, in general, I found that a mini impact (air driven) with the swivel sockets was my most appreciated and used tools. Depending on clearance, you can use it both on the bolt side or the nut side for the control arms.... and of course, you need a torque wrench and some series strength to torque down those lower control arms at the end of the process... Here is a pic of the tools that made it a lot faster and easier.

 

[Deleted member 22728]

Remove the axle-end bolt first, then back out the frame-side until it begins to contact the heat shield around the particulate filter. Grasp the arm at the axle-end, and move it, a little forcefully, until the bolt begins to clear the heat shield above; you'll have more room then to keep backing it out one turn at at time, until its completely out. Installation is the reverse, with a ball/socket style "Johnny Joint" arm being significantly easier to get the bolt started in. There's no need to do anything with the exhaust downpipe or DPF assembly itself.

 

[AXISJT]

Remove the axle-end bolt first, then back out the frame-side until it begins to contact the heat shield around the particulate filter. Grasp the arm at the axle-end, and move it, a little forcefully, until the bolt begins to clear the heat shield above; you'll have more room then to keep backing it out one turn at at time, until its completely out. Installation is the reverse, with a ball/socket style "Johnny Joint" arm being significantly easier to get the bolt started in. There's no need to do anything with the exhaust downpipe or DPF assembly itself.

Did you reinstall it in the same position? I have seen to install it in the reverse to make things easier in the future.

 

[Deleted member 22728]

Did you reinstall it in the same position? I have seen to install it in the reverse to make things easier in the future.

Yeah, however, all of my installs (including my own rig as pictured), got RJ arms with J Joints, which are easier to manage. So, if you're under the Jeep, you'd grasp the arm at the front and pull left and down, kind-of diagonally, so as to "slightly" steer the bolt up and away from the DPF. The threads will catch enough inside the old bushing /control arm mount ear to allow it to be backed-out until you can jank it around enough to remove. Installation is just the reverse of removal. It really is easier than it looks. I use an 18mm ratcheting flex wrench as you basically don't have enough room for anything else.

 

[MrFahrenheit]

Cut the bolt to remove it. Then when you replace it, install the opposite way. I’ll see if I can locate a video showing to do just that.

@AXISJT This is a video of Dirt Lifestyle installing a Clayton lift on his JT diesel. This is the point in the install where he talks about this bolt:

 

[Courtsm3]

Above video help me a ton.

 

[staying_tuned]

Cut the bolt to remove it. Then when you replace it, install the opposite way. I’ll see if I can locate a video showing to do just that.

AEVs instructions on the bracket say flip it around too but yeah, never thought of just ordering it up in advance and cutting it off. Yeah, that would be a 5 min deal if that.

 

[omgoddard]

@AXISJT This is a video of Dirt Lifestyle installing a Clayton lift on his JT diesel. This is the point in the install where he talks about this bolt:

Same, I ordered the bolt just in case. Fortunately I got it out, It def comes out and gets up against the exhaust but I was able to wrench it out and up a little over the pipe. Ended up just taking a flathead and hammer to the head of the bolt and it persuaded it up and over/out.

 

[DailyMoparGuy]

Same, I ordered the bolt just in case. Fortunately I got it out, It def comes out and gets up against the exhaust but I was able to wrench it out and up a little over the pipe. Ended up just taking a flathead and hammer to the head of the bolt and it persuaded it up and over/out.

Let’s Go Mountaineers!!!

 

[rharr]

Took me (2) 12 hour days, doing my Rock krawler 3" ADV lift (springs, FR-LCA, Track bar, shocks, sway bar links, rear track bar bracket) Just me in my driveway with a jack, 2 jack stands and 2 tall pipe stands. Hardest part was getting the new springs to fit, i choose to compress the springs, in retro spec it would have been easier to disconnect the drive shafts and brakes, to drop the axles even further to get the uncompressed springs to fit.

Also if you are doing 3" or more i strongly recommend trimming you FR LCA axle mounts, I was getting contact at full droop. Even if you don't get contact, since you are there it doesn't hurt to trim a little off.

Other notes, if you are doing the rock crawler kit with the rear track bar bracket. I found my bracket didn't match exactly to the mount, nothing terrible, but I had to bust out some c-clamps to push and squeeze things flush before locating the holes to be drilled.

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