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What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

Gene26

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I relocated my AM/FM antenna today. It now lives under the plastic vent around the wipers. I used my Overland Bound badge to cover the holes.

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How is the reception after this?
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Eventyr_JT

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How is the reception after this?
There are only 3 stations programmed into my radio, and 2 of them suck. So with that said, one had a little static and the others seem ok, but that was in my driveway right after relocating it.
I pretty much use my iPhone for music while driving.
 

SargeDiesel

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Good idea. I did buy extra 5mm screws in black...........
Mr. Papa, could you please verify something for me... please sir ? I have the understanding that the 12 screw holes in the bed rails were M6 x 1.0.... but I when I went through some threads to figure out how to remove Line-X from my screw holes and it was mentioned the ones on the left and right side rails were M6 but the ones under the rear window were M8. I need to figure out how to remove the Line-X, but before I tried to chase them or use a heated fender bolt, I wanted to make sure I was using the correct size(s). Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

Eventyr_JT

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ok so I like the idea (reception issues for those rural). a bracket to mount it would be a little more professional and be an added ground. I use those cable management sticky tabs for wiring, that not going to last to long.
iPhone takes care of reception.
 

Eventyr_JT

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Mr. Papa, could you please verify something for me... please sir ? I have the understanding that the 12 screw holes in the bed rails were M6 x 1.0.... but I when I went through some threads to figure out how to remove Line-X from my screw holes and it was mentioned the ones on the left and right side rails were M6 but the ones under the rear window were M8. I need to figure out how to remove the Line-X, but before I tried to chase them or use a heated fender bolt, I wanted to make sure I was using the correct size(s). Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The bed rail screws are all the same - M6. The 2 anchor points in the bed are M8. Pick up a metric drill/tap set at Northern Tool for $25. I have both metric and standard sets.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Mr. Papa, could you please verify something for me... please sir ? I have the understanding that the 12 screw holes in the bed rails were M6 x 1.0.... but I when I went through some threads to figure out how to remove Line-X from my screw holes and it was mentioned the ones on the left and right side rails were M6 but the ones under the rear window were M8. I need to figure out how to remove the Line-X, but before I tried to chase them or use a heated fender bolt, I wanted to make sure I was using the correct size(s). Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The left and right are indeed M6 x 1.0 (and the protocol with metric is that if the thread pitch isn't specified, it's "course" 1.0 is course for the M6 metric size)
I didn't put a rail on the front.
I used a M6 taper tap to clear the threads. I started the tap in a ways and back it out and as long as I didn't see any silver I figured it was going in fine and not cutting the steel.
I did clean some of the worst out with a small knife blade before using the tap. I scraped until I got down to the metal - barely.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Funny thing about marker and parking lights - I changed the park/TS lights on my 2nd car (68 Javelin) to clean lens with amber bulb.
Then years later, changed my 82 SX4 TS/park lights to clear with amber bulbs.
Somehow that red and black car just didn't look right with amber lenses up front, they "stuck out" compared to the rest of the front of the car.

How do these DD marker lights look lit? Is it a good color/look?
They look nice not active.
 

Sarge502

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Do you know if these work with sport/maxtow models?
I believe so. There’s no specifics between trims to my understanding. As a matter of fact, these will also fit any JL Wrangler as well.
 

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SargeDiesel

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The bed rail screws are all the same - M6. The 2 anchor points in the bed are M8. Pick up a metric drill/tap set at Northern Tool for $25. I have both metric and standard sets.
when you say anchor points, what are you referring to , the four holes under the window ? If I understand you correctly, the eight (8) holes in the side rails (left/right) are M6x1.0 and the four(4) holes at the head of the bed under the window are M8x1.0 ?
 

SargeDiesel

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The left and right are indeed M6 x 1.0 (and the protocol with metric is that if the thread pitch isn't specified, it's "course" 1.0 is course for the M6 metric size)
I didn't put a rail on the front.
I used a M6 taper tap to clear the threads. I started the tap in a ways and back it out and as long as I didn't see any silver I figured it was going in fine and not cutting the steel.
I did clean some of the worst out with a small knife blade before using the tap. I scraped until I got down to the metal - barely.
thank you sir !
 

SargeDiesel

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Finished my DIY trail rails today. 1 10 ft 1 5/8 in Superstrut from Lowe's. Cut to 2 50.5 in halves - just did left and right, not front of bed. 6 #10 20 bolts, washers. Painted it black and bolted on the existing holes. Spray in liner so it was hard to get the bolts started.

Looking to buy a Mopar soft roll tonneau next - I want this one because it doesn't use rails...
did you post pics ? If not, got any ?
 

SargeDiesel

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Thanks! And I agree! So many wheel options out there and the Militas were an instant, “Yes!”
what backspacing and offset did you go with ?
 
 







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