Former Sport owner: Differences between Mojave and Sport manual

[veblenesque]

I drove a manual Sport S for 18 months and am now driving a Mojave. I like driving, which is why I'm a manual Gladiator owner. I thought people like me might want a head's up before ordering.

I bought the Mojave after deciding to move to lower gears. After pricing regearing and noticing that the Mojave already has 4.10s, I checked and high used prices and Gupton made the delta between my old Sport and a new Mojave only $12k with many add-ons including lane change warning and heated seats/steering wheel. The choice seemed easy.

I knew the Mojave would have a softer suspension with more travel, but I didn't realize how much difference this would make when driving. The car rides much better in that it is softer, but it isn't as sporty as the Sport. The biggest difference to me was the turn-in (how easily the car changes direction when you want to turn quickly). The Mojave takes a moment to roll and settle while the stiffer suspension on the Sport makes the car more engaging to drive. I frankly miss the Sport suspension on anything other than freeway or bumpy roads where the softer Mojave shines. For other manual Gladiator drivers who aren't going off-road, I'd recommend getting the Sport S and optioning up if you enjoy driving and aren't going off pavement and fire roads much.

A stiffer suspension also helps with towing, while the slightly lower gearing favors the Mojave. My sense is that the perfect towing Gladiator is a Maxtow Sport regeared to 4.56.

I can't wait to take the Mojave to Big Bend. The Sport was hopelessly stiff on high-speed offroad adventures. I'm sure the Mojave's going to be in its element there.

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[dcmdon]

The perfect towing Jeep is simply the Sport Max Tow.

No 4.56 needed.

If you think about it all that the 4.56 would do is let the transmission get to 8th on the highway and help you from a stop. On an AT gladiator its all irrelevant because it happens all the time. . In all circumstances the tranny would just shift when it needs to based on load, torque requested, rpm and speed.

On a MT, you would just leave it one gear down. But then again a manual max tow (if they make it) is dumb because you are limited by the MT in how much you can tow.

There's no sense in running around with lower gears than you need 95% of the time, for the 5% of the time when it would help.

I have a Mojave and am glad I bought it. I am coming out of a car so the better compliance helps. It does kind of roll, take a set, then turn. For me it wasn't just about comfort. I found the sport to buck and the rear end of the sport to step out on expansion joints or frost heaves when you are turning. The Mojave doesn't do that.

But it looks ike you are in TX, so you don't have to deal with that kind of crap.

 

[LostWoods]

The perfect towing Jeep is simply the Sport Max Tow.

No 4.56 needed.


If you think about it all that the 4.56 would do is let the transmission get to 8th on the highway and help you from a stop. On an AT gladiator its all irrelevant because it happens all the time. . In all circumstances the tranny would just shift when it needs to based on load, torque requested, rpm and speed.

Big caveat here: if you intend to stay near stock tire size. 4.56 is absolutely needed if you want to step up to 33s or 35s and drive anywhere mountainous or at altitude. Shorter gearing isn't just about getting into higher gears or off the line, it's about multiplying torque and reducing engine load.

I towed just around 5k through Payson, AZ down into Phoenix and while it was manageable, some of those grades made my truck work far more than I wanted it to just to maintain even 45. I could not imagine doing the same in Colorado or anywhere with real altitude on top of that.

 

[veblenesque]

That's an interesting perspective on gearing. When towing, I'm mainly using either 3rd or 4th. My main frustration was being unable to maintain freeway speed with any incline or wind in 4th. I was hoping that lower gearing might allow me to more comfortably maintain 4th on the freeway without the need for constant downshifts.

 

[Advntrbound]

I'm always surprised to hear that the Sport (S) steps out or bucks on uneven surfaces. I had a Toyota Tacoma do that, but my Sport S is very planted (MT). I can't personally justify the cost difference between a Mojave and Sport S.

 

[veblenesque]

I'm always surprised to hear that the Sport (S) steps out or bucks on uneven surfaces. I had a Toyota Tacoma do that, but my Sport S is very planted (MT). I can't personally justify the cost difference between a Mojave and Sport S.

Part of what motivated me to write the post is that the Sport is arguably the better Gladiator for pavement, and I had no issues taking mine on some pretty tough roads in Big Bend with upgraded tires.

That said, I love the look of the Mojave.

 

[Tommyd]

The perfect towing Jeep is simply the Sport Max Tow.

No 4.56 needed.

If you think about it all that the 4.56 would do is let the transmission get to 8th on the highway and help you from a stop. On an AT gladiator its all irrelevant because it happens all the time. . In all circumstances the tranny would just shift when it needs to based on load, torque requested, rpm and speed.

On a MT, you would just leave it one gear down.

There's no sense in running around with lower gears than you need 95% of the time, for the 5% of the time when it would help.

I have a Mojave and am glad I bought it. I am coming out of a car so the better compliance helps. It does kind of roll, take a set, then turn. For me it wasn't just about comfort. I found the sport to buck and the rear end of the sport to step out on expansion joints or frost heaves when you are turning. The Mojave doesn't do that.

But it looks ike you are in TX, so you don't have to deal with that kind of crap.

Aftermarket shocks would have made a day and night difference. And been a lot cheaper and better than a stock Mojave.

 

[LostWoods]

Aftermarket shocks would have made a day and night difference. And been a lot cheaper and better than a stock Mojave.

Stock Mojave shocks are absolute trash compared to properly valved Fox 2.5s. I wonder if they're just as serviceable because I'd bet Accutune or Filthy could get them riding tighter on the street and still be more complaint in the dirt. Especially if you tune the air bumps with them.

 

[Tommyd]

I'm always surprised to hear that the Sport (S) steps out or bucks on uneven surfaces. I had a Toyota Tacoma do that, but my Sport S is very planted (MT). I can't personally justify the cost difference between a Mojave and Sport S.

And for 12k you can build a sport better than a Mojave so yeah me either. I guess if leaving it oem is what they are wanting then I can see it would be better.

 

[LostWoods]

And for 12k you can build a sport better than a Mojave so yeah me either. I guess if leaving it oem is what they are wanting then I can see it would be better.

Exact same reason I don't have a Rubicon. Aside from the 4:1 I didn't want, I'll have a better truck in every way for the same price.

 

[dcmdon]

And for 12k you can build a sport better than a Mojave so yeah me either. I guess if leaving it oem is what they are wanting then I can see it would be better.

It depends what you want. If you don't care about luxury items, you are right.

But if you option up an overland with all the toys (not available on a Sport) then add in all the off road bits on a Mojave, its a no brainer to get a Mojave.

In the end, its nothing new. If you prioritize off road ability over options, the best deal always be a sport with aftermarket equipment over a factory built Mojave or Rubicon.

Aftermarket shocks would have made a day and night difference. And been a lot cheaper and better than a stock Mojave.

As someone who raced motocross and got pretty good at tuning his suspension, I can tell you that while the Mojave is more softly sprung than a sport, its more heavily damped. So aftermarket shocks on a Sport aren't going to get it to where a Mojave is as far as running fast over bumps.

The main reason I bought this version was because the suspension felt properly sorted. In other words the suspension was compliant but controlled body motions well. The sport felt bouncy and under damped.

I'm not going to try to turn my Jeep into a handling machine. I'd rather go for comfort. If I want to hustle something down a road, I have my wife's car.

 

[NachoRuby]

. If I want to hustle something down a road, I have my wife's car.

Same, except my wife's regular car is also a jeep. If I want to hustle, I have my old Volkswagens, one a 73 beetle, boasting about 60 horsepower, or the other, a '90s Jetta with almost 100

I'm just resigned to the fact that our jeeps will never be handling machines, and they aren't meant to be.

 

[LostWoods]

If you don't care about luxury items

I mean we did all buy Jeeps. There's nothing on a Rubicon the aftermarket doesn't do better but almost nothing aside from a ground-up overhaul will make one luxury.

I just refuse to buy one out of protest that the premier off road brand gatekeeps the shit out of off road features.

 

[dcmdon]

I mean we did all buy Jeeps. There's nothing on a Rubicon the aftermarket doesn't do better but almost nothing aside from a ground-up overhaul will make one luxury.

I just refuse to buy one out of protest that the premier off road brand gatekeeps the shit out of off road features.

I get it. The gatekeeping (great term) is getting particularly old when Ford will sell you a base Bronco with all the best off road stuff equivalent to a Wrangler Extreme Recon in a "BaseSquatch" for an MSRP of $40,280 (Front and rear lockers, 35s, 4.70 gears, bead lock capable wheels, position sensitive, remote reservoir shocks)

There is a lot of luxury and safety stuff that can't be added later practically. But as far as off road stuff, I agree.

 

[Rahkmalla]

I get it. The gatekeeping (great term) is getting particularly old when Ford will sell you a base Bronco with all the best off road stuff equivalent to a Wrangler Extreme Recon in a "BaseSquatch" for an MSRP of $40,280 (Front and rear lockers, 35s, 4.70 gears, bead lock capable wheels, position sensitive, remote reservoir shocks)

There is a lot of luxury and safety stuff that can't be added later practically. But as far as off road stuff, I agree.

Basequatch is only 3.3k cheaper than a 2dr Rubicon and is missing a decent amount of stuff the Rubicon has, and that's assuming you can get one (had 2dr Base manual sasquatch on reservation for a long time)

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