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Former Sport owner: Differences between Mojave and Sport manual

The Duck of Earl

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This is an interesting thread to me, as I have pinged back and forth between preference for the Sport S Max Tow and the Mojave. Not interested in a full blown build and not a lot of hard-core off roading for me, and I do plan to check most every box, making the price points close enough to ponder a bit more.

I have done a couple different test drives in both, and while the Mojave's suspension felt great cruising on the highway and over train tracks and speed bumps, I did notice the 'wallowy' turn-in. I thought some of that may have been due to the mud terrains (vs the all terrain option), but it drove quite a bit different than a Sport S or Overland for sure.

Every truck I have ever had (or driven) had at least some axle wrap when unloaded and driving at speed over frost heaves or expansion joints when hit at an angle. Interesting that the Mojave suspension is compliant enough to tone it down if not eliminate it, but if you hit the same situation under max payload I wonder if that might manifest into different issues vs the Sport S likely just settling down.

I definitely felt like I could tell the difference between an Overland and a regular Sport S vs a Max Tow with the different gearing and handling (almost a bit 'sportier', but just in that it was more tightly wound/communicative). The Mojave was different enough feeling all around that it was more of different truck all together than just comparing perceived subtle differences, but I can't help but seem to recall that the Max Tow felt 'quicker' off the line and around town even though they had the same gears.

The issue I still struggle with is tires. There seems to be a strong opinion of a few on this forum that if you aren't going up to 37s, all you should ever NEED is the 4.10s. Since I have not driven a Gladiator with 34s/35s with the 4.10s, I can't argue from personal experience that I disagree - but I can not see how 4.56s (or even 4.88s really) would not be beneficial and without many (if any) negatives if you are upgrading tires from stock (and particularly greater than 33s). There are enough examples and write-ups on this forum of how changing out the smallish hi-way / fake all terrains that come on the Sport S Max Tow to a 34/35 can effect the driving experience. I guess if just sticking with Mojave sized takeoffs, maybe the change would not be perceptible to most, especially since that's all the Rubi and Mojave come with anyway.

To me the Mojave all terrains are most likely big-enough to not bother with changing out for the life of the tire, I can't say the same with the Max Tow. But for the Max Tow, even if you go with a Mojave sized 33 (let alone a larger 33" to 35" tire), you probably should at least add on some spacers/levelers to get to the same ride height / wheel spacing the Rubi/Mohave come stock, and then you are really starting to get to $1,500+labor (unless you found some take-off deals) eroding a bit into the approx. $5,000 price difference between a loaded up Sport S Max Tow and similarly spec'd Mojave.
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LostWoods

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Basequatch is only 3.3k cheaper than a 2dr Rubicon and is missing a decent amount of stuff the Rubicon has, and that's assuming you can get one (had 2dr Base manual sasquatch on reservation for a long time)
Yeah but the base Rubicon pales in comparison with the features we're talking about. If you're shopping for a Sasquatch package you aren't looking at the base Rubicon, you're looking at the XR package. I mean what else does the base Rubicon add over even a Sport that really matters and can't be added relatively easily?
 

dcmdon

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Big caveat here: if you intend to stay near stock tire size. 4.56 is absolutely needed if you want to step up to 33s or 35s and drive anywhere mountainous or at altitude. Shorter gearing isn't just about getting into higher gears or off the line, it's about multiplying torque and reducing engine load.
Uh. That's what being in a lower gear does. It multiplies torque.

If 6th with 4.56s work at 70 mph, then 5th with 4.10s is pretty close.

The overall ratio is what matters. Engine load is determined by how much power it takes to push the vehicle at any given moment. A given amount of power can be made an infinite number of ways. But to put it into 2 examples. Asking the engine to make 200 ft lbs of torque at 2000 RPM is the same power as asking it to make 100 ft-lbs of torque at 4000 rpm or 133 ft lbs of torque at 3000 rpm. Its all the same.

I think by engine load, you mean having to pull high torque (throttle) at low RPM. Yes lower gearing accomplishes that. But again, a lower transmission gear and a higher axle ratio is the same as a higher transmission gear and a lower axle ratio.

The overall ratio is made up of the transmission ratio of that particular gear that its in, the transfer case ratio (1:1 in high range) and the axle ratio.
 

Akgladiator

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The perfect towing Jeep is simply the Sport Max Tow.

No 4.56 needed.

If you think about it all that the 4.56 would do is let the transmission get to 8th on the highway and help you from a stop. On an AT gladiator its all irrelevant because it happens all the time. . In all circumstances the tranny would just shift when it needs to based on load, torque requested, rpm and speed.

On a MT, you would just leave it one gear down. But then again a manual max tow (if they make it) is dumb because you are limited by the MT in how much you can tow.

There's no sense in running around with lower gears than you need 95% of the time, for the 5% of the time when it would help.

I have a Mojave and am glad I bought it. I am coming out of a car so the better compliance helps. It does kind of roll, take a set, then turn. For me it wasn't just about comfort. I found the sport to buck and the rear end of the sport to step out on expansion joints or frost heaves when you are turning. The Mojave doesn't do that.

But it looks ike you are in TX, so you don't have to deal with that kind of crap.
Gladiator is not built to tow, its design to go off road...

I have fullsize trucks to do towing duties.

Even 4.10 is a joke from factory. 4.56 should be basic gear ratio for Jeep.
 

LostWoods

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Uh. That's what being in a lower gear does. It multiplies torque.

If 6th with 4.56s work at 70 mph, then 5th with 4.10s is pretty close.

The overall ratio is what matters. Engine load is determined by how much power it takes to push the vehicle at any given moment. A given amount of power can be made an infinite number of ways. But to put it into 2 examples. Asking the engine to make 200 ft lbs of torque at 2000 RPM is the same power as asking it to make 100 ft-lbs of torque at 4000 rpm or 133 ft lbs of torque at 3000 rpm. Its all the same.

I think by engine load, you mean having to pull high torque (throttle) at low RPM. Yes lower gearing accomplishes that. But again, a lower transmission gear and a higher axle ratio is the same as a higher transmission gear and a lower axle ratio.

The overall ratio is made up of the transmission ratio of that particular gear that its in, the transfer case ratio (1:1 in high range) and the axle ratio.
I'm very aware of what you're saying but the problem is that it's exactly that simple in theory and not that simple in practice. It all depends on where the gearing lands and the gearing is optimized around the factory 31" tires. Going to 35" tires puts the AT between gears at 55mph and 4.56 axles puts you just slightly over that factory ratio.

All the rest about load in my post was the demand you place on the engine and I didn't go into a long post about it because it wasn't really relevant information to my point.
 
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Rahkmalla

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Yeah but the base Rubicon pales in comparison with the features we're talking about. If you're shopping for a Sasquatch package you aren't looking at the base Rubicon, you're looking at the XR package. I mean what else does the base Rubicon add over even a Sport that really matters and can't be added relatively easily?
By your logic: what does XR add that can't be added relatively easily?

Rubicon is not a direct equivalent to sasquatch, that is correct, but trust me spend enough time on 6g and you'll see people aren't paying 5800 to get a wheel and tire package, they're doing it to grab a factory lift and lockers.

As for your "pales in comparison" statement, the sasquatch package is .85 inches of extra ground clearance over Rubicon, but lacks SBD that a Rubicon has. What else does it have that outshines a non-XR Rubicon so brightly?

And the idea of "shopping for a sasquatch" should be examined again, because I know plenty of people who gave up on sasquatched manual black diamonds when the manual sasquatch pricing came out because a non-sasquatched badlands (base Rubicon equivalent) was cheaper. What does a badlands have? 33s, SBD, front and rear lockers, slight lift, fancier suspension, higher final drive ratio. You know... all that stuff that can in your words "be added easily"
 
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joeym7

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Very interesting original post...Good to have choices...Mine is Mojave, in the 5 months or so I've had it I've been off-road with it quite a number of times and and does extremely well riding with lifted and customized Wranglers in our local Jeep Club (I'm the only gladiator). And really, that was the (main) reason I purchased it, as a very capable stock off roader. Plug and play, for those who (may) not want to do any modifications (with the exception of getting a short antenna :)).

As far as the ride on payment, to me it is the perfect sweet spot of a comfortable ride vs a sportier ride (especially for a truck) which can be fine tuned to one's liking by modulating the tire pressure...

It is funny, our streets around here are full of potholes and what not, Mojave is the only vehicles I've ever own where I actually and intentionally ride over them (rather than avoid) because it feels so good and it is fun.

I couldn't be happier with it.
 

dcmdon

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Very interesting original post...Good to have choices...Mine is Mojave, in the 5 months or so I've had it I've been off-road with it quite a number of times and and does extremely well riding with lifted and customized Wranglers in our local Jeep Club (I'm the only gladiator). And really, that was the (main) reason I purchased it, as a very capable stock off roader. Plug and play, for those who (may) not want to do any modifications (with the exception of getting a short antenna :)).

As far as the ride on payment, to me it is the perfect sweet spot of a comfortable ride vs a sportier ride (especially for a truck) which can be fine tuned to one's liking by modulating the tire pressure...

It is funny, our streets around here are full of potholes and what not, Mojave is the only vehicles I've ever own where I actually and intentionally ride over them (rather than avoid) because it feels so good and it is fun.

I couldn't be happier with it.
This pretty much mirrors my experience. Though probably haven't wheeled it on anything as difficult as you.

My Jeep is primarily my daily driver. That means it stays (mostly) stock. I'm probably going to put wheels and 35s on it in a year or so simply because I hate the black OEM wheels and possibly an AEV spacer lift. But that's it and probably no lift until I'm close to being out of warranty.

I bought my Gladiator for a number of reasons.
1. Family fun vehicle with doors and/or roof off for summer
2. Family ski vehicle in the winter. Which means relatively decent ride as well as snow capability.
3. Good tow vehicle
4. Tons of cargo space (with topper)
5. Good hunting vehicle, dog box fits in back and still a ton of room for stuff.
6. A generally slow vehicle with chassis dynamics that won't encourage aggressive driving (I needed to slow down)
7. A fun off road vehicle for relatively easy off roading

The Gladiator met all those requirements. The Mojave met some other requirements that centered on safety systems, appearance, ride, luxury, and comfort.

It works for me.
 

dcmdon

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Basequatch is only 3.3k cheaper than a 2dr Rubicon and is missing a decent amount of stuff the Rubicon has, and that's assuming you can get one (had 2dr Base manual sasquatch on reservation for a long time)
Don't forget a Basesquatch is equivalent to an Extreme Recon Rubicon. Not a base.

Same, except my wife's regular car is also a jeep. If I want to hustle, I have my old Volkswagens, one a 73 beetle, boasting about 60 horsepower, or the other, a '90s Jetta with almost 100 ;)

I'm just resigned to the fact that our jeeps will never be handling machines, and they aren't meant to be.
Nope. They are not. That's a large part of the reason why I bought my Jeep. It doesn't feel good to push it . It protests. Which has slowed me down A LOT.

My wife's Miata was probably slower than my Jeep. but when you bent it into a corner it whispered in your ear "faster, faster". That was a slow car that was a joy to drive fast. As I suspect your old VWs are. The jeep is more like my friend's Harley that when you push it yells at you to slow down. ha.
 

Rahkmalla

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Don't forget a Basesquatch is equivalent to an Extreme Recon Rubicon. Not a base.
Basesquatch is really more like a cross between an XR Willys and an XR Rubi

A Badlands Sasquatch is a direct equivalent to an XR Rubi
 

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dcmdon

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Basesquatch is really more like an XR Willys if we're truly comparing apples to apples
Great point. Willy's as far as interior appointments. But Rubicon/XR as far as hardware. (front and rear lockers, etc)
 

Rahkmalla

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Great point. Willy's as far as interior appointments. But Rubicon/XR as far as hardware. (front and rear lockers, etc)
I edited my post because I wasn't quite on the money with my original assesment. Also a non-badlands sasquatch is missing the SBD of a rubi or badlands
 

dcmdon

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I edited my post because I wasn't quite on the money with my original assesment. Also a non-badlands sasquatch is missing the SBD of a rubi or badlands
SBD??

I originally had a reservation on a Cactus Grey Badlands 4 door Luxe with everything. I eventually bailed when I got to actually sit in one and realized it has nowhere near enough cargo room.

I figured I would get a cheapie used BMW 230 (about $25k used with low miles) and switched my order to a 2 door manual Big Bend Sasquatch in Cyber Orange. Total cost about the same as one loaded Bronco or Jeep.

After talking it through with my wife we agreed that I drove way too fast in my current car and should skip the BMW and try to find something that met my needs in a Jeep. The Gladiator with a topper had the room I needed and slowed me down.
 

Rahkmalla

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SBD??

I originally had a reservation on a Cactus Grey Badlands 4 door Luxe with everything. I eventually bailed when I got to actually sit in one and realized it has nowhere near enough cargo room.
Sway bar disconnect.

I had a 2dr base manual reserved for MY21, then they added manual sasquatch for 22 and i changed my res. But after ford went back on their promise to deliver reservations before non-reservations to favor the larger dealers who wanted the hot vehicle to charge ADM on, my expectation went from getting one late calendar year 22 to getting one sometime in 2026 if ford didn't outright cancel all outstanding reservations before that time.

I had no qualms with the 2dr's cargo space. You can't order a 2dr anything and not understand the compromises you're making. My Mojave is definitely the superior vehicle overall when compared to the bronco I had "reserved" but the price is definitely a reflection of that. Driving a 53k Jeep when a 41k Bronco would have made me happy does sting a bit, but there really wasn't an inbetween for me.
 

Marlinvx

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It depends what you want. If you don't care about luxury items, you are right.

But if you option up an overland with all the toys (not available on a Sport) then add in all the off road bits on a Mojave, its a no brainer to get a Mojave.
Out of curiosity, what luxury items can I get on an overland that I can't get on a loaded Sport S? I did the build on Jeep site, and I don't see a difference other than some cosmetics and wheel selection. Functional things, all selectable on Sport S.
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