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I’m running the Mopar lift and am getting ready to do a front trackbar. It’s a good idea. Rear isn’t really needed.

You’ll 100% want 37’s on a JTR with the Mopar lift. 35’s will look small. It’s designed for 37’s on a JTR also. Can’t imagine you’ll have any rubbing issues with the right wheel offset.

There is no downside to that deal

Same. With the crown of the road, mine definitely pulls harder right than left

I have the Mopar 2” on my Sport S Max Tow. No extra spacers or anything. I used a piece of pipe since none of my 2x4’s are perfectly straight. In the front I took a level at level and measured Center of rear hub to top of bed (bottom of pipe pictured) - 38-1/8” Center of front hub to top of...

It looks like it This is likely the OE part#, but still called a steering gear https://parts.moparonlineparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-steering-gear-68418449ae/?c=YT1qZWVw

I ran the oiled K&N on my WRX for quite some time with no issues. As a precaution I'd pull the MAF every other filter cleaning and clean it as well. Never had a problem. Dad was an ASE Master Tech for 30 years and never had an issue with them either. I think a lot of the problems people have are...

So what about this..... https://www.allmoparparts.com/sku/p5160245aa.html

I'm going to order the afe dry filter. I really just want a washable filter.

My dad used to build Jeeps for a living until the ‘08 recession. He never liked Fabtech at all but maybe they’re better now. FWIW, you’ll get more than 2” out of the Mopar lift. I got 2.5” out of mine. You can level out a little bit of the rake with just a $20 set of front coil spacers. Then...

If the tires and wheels aren't too far behind the lift then I'd just wait. I drove mine for a few days before the tires and alignment.

That's all a matter of comfort. It's not an arbitrary range from the manufacturers. Personally, I wouldn't deviate on that.

Stock wheels are 7.5 wide. Check the width that Nitto specs for that tire. I bet it's 8.5" minimum.

That’s a great setup

I’ll throw my $0.02 in here as well. I did the Mopar lift on my sport s max tow. It’s been almost a year now with it. When I put it on, Rock Krawler was the only other reputable manufacturer with a lift for these and I wasn’t able to spend $3k on the lift alone. For the money, the Mopar lift is...

If you look at the list of available springs for the Gladiator, there are far more of them than there are trims. It’s cheaper to do this then have different part numbers for arms and and track bars if the weights fluctuate enough

I guess it's possible that that's the point in which the carrier changes.

I mean, I wouldn't recommend it for mountains or long hauls, but if you're on mostly flat ground for a short distance, I'm sure it'll be fine.

4.10's and manual mode on the trans is definitely the best solution there. Letting it hunt just means it needs to be forced to remain in the lower gear. That'll be easier on the trans and the engine.

You're going to be just fine if you're at 4300 loaded. You're rated at 6000 (not 4500) with standard tow package and the 3.73's with the auto. If you find over time that you want some extra low end, just regear to 4.10's (assuming you still have stock tire size). Rear springs are irrelevant...