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Uparms

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Thank you for great details and write up, Very helpful, will follow.
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TennesseePA

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Great info I have already saved there site to my home screen and will be adding that to it thank you
I was looking into a normal isolator but these look way better
There are cheaper options than the RedArc but as a full timer I’d go with quality over price. Batteries matter too. If anyone can justify the cost of LiFePO4 system you can. Double the useable capacity at half the weight. My entire 200Ah setup weighs less than a single 100Ah lead acid battery. Plus I get to use all 200Ah rather than just half. My LiFePO4 batteries are rated at 3000 cycles at 90% original capacity. Not to mention that they power my fridge for a week without recharging.

F2856C34-B8BA-463B-9EAA-7D701B6D1578.jpeg


417ACB89-B97A-4AE7-8663-26B07772B889.jpeg
 
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There are cheaper options than the RedArc but as a full timer I’d go with quality over price. Batteries matter too. If anyone can justify the cost of LiFePO4 system you can. Double the useable capacity at half the weight. My entire 200Ah setup weighs less than a single 100Ah lead acid battery. Plus I get to use all 200Ah rather than just half. My LiFePO4 batteries are rated at 3000 cycles at 90% original capacity. Not to mention that they power my fridge for a week without recharging.

Jeep Gladiator 100,000 mile Gladiator review 417ACB89-B97A-4AE7-8663-26B07772B889


Jeep Gladiator 100,000 mile Gladiator review 417ACB89-B97A-4AE7-8663-26B07772B889
Great setup wish I had that fridge
 

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Thank you for the great right up. I can’t wait did the YouTube channel!
 

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Unless Jeep made radical changes over the recent years, voltage regulation was in the PCM..... not a distinct regulator.
Voltage should hover around 14 volts while running/charging.
A fully charged battery after surface charge is removed is 12.6 volts. (for typical automotive batteries) so anything under 12.6 is low - and means the charging system isn't keeping up with the load. That's VERY possible at idle speeds! My guess is it's not "heat" it's that at idle, the charging system can't keep up with the load you have.
I'm basing that on a ton of years of experiencing restoring and diagnosing charging systems - but no hands-on the JT system as of yet.

What racers will do (those who wish to keep an alternator on their car, that is) is run their alternator SLOWER with a larger pulley to reducde the HP stolen while running down the track while those who drive their cars mostly in town in hot climates will put a smaller pulley on the alternator to drive it faster to keep the charge rate up to keep up with load demand.
 

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Unless Jeep made radical changes over the recent years, voltage regulation was in the PCM..... not a distinct regulator.
Voltage should hover around 14 volts while running/charging.
A fully charged battery after surface charge is removed is 12.6 volts. (for typical automotive batteries) so anything under 12.6 is low - and means the charging system isn't keeping up with the load. That's VERY possible at idle speeds! My guess is it's not "heat" it's that at idle, the charging system can't keep up with the load you have.
I'm basing that on a ton of years of experiencing restoring and diagnosing charging systems - but no hands-on the JT system as of yet.

What racers will do (those who wish to keep an alternator on their car, that is) is run their alternator SLOWER with a larger pulley to reducde the HP stolen while running down the track while those who drive their cars mostly in town in hot climates will put a smaller pulley on the alternator to drive it faster to keep the charge rate up to keep up with load demand.
These have what's called a smart alternator which will lower and charge what is necessary and the regulator is on the negative post of battery
 

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.....but has the OP gotten the aluminum steering gear replaced? Thats the question we all want to know. I am guessing so, otherwise with 100k miles on it at highway speeds by now he would have surely lost control, struck a school bus filled of kids, flipped a half dozen times, and burst into flames.
 

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These have what's called a smart alternator which will lower and charge what is necessary and the regulator is on the negative post of battery
By the battery to read battery temperature. Higher charge rates needed for cold batteries, lower rates needed for warm batteries. That's why even in the 60s and 70s they put regulators near the battery, or as close as possible.

Likely they are sensing more than voltage on these as a pure voltage sense would read very differently. I'll have to find the specs and see what the output max is at a given rotor RPM.
They have also for the past few years been able to shift the stator phases in and out which is really cool. Effient as hell.
 

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.....but has the OP gotten the aluminum steering gear replaced? Thats the question we all want to know. I am guessing so, otherwise with 100k miles on it at highway speeds by now he would have surely lost control, struck a school bus filled of kids, flipped a half dozen times, and burst into flames.
Unless it was like mine - not good, but not a danger to others around you IF you paid attention and were awake. A few were livable.........
And yes, I know where you are going with it - making fun of those who had serious issues with theirs, those who had one that was a big risk. That's why some people don't post - they get smacked down by the non-belivers for telling how bad it was.
 

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Unless it was like mine - not good, but not a danger to others around you IF you paid attention and were awake. A few were livable.........
And yes, I know where you are going with it - making fun of those who had serious issues with theirs, those who had one that was a big risk. That's why some people don't post - they get smacked down by the non-belivers for telling how bad it was.
Actually I was not making fun of those with serious problems. I do believe that there are some out there with serious legit issues however, I also think that the notion that every 2020 JT is a timebomb just waiting to go off is hyperbola. A mini hysteria has been created that has now slammed the brakes on all replacements. This doesnt benefit anyone. Everyone rushing to their dealer to get the parts, weather they need them or not has only exacerbated the problem. I will eventually get mine replaced but for now its not a problem and compared to my CJ, its a canyon carver. I will acknowledge that FCA and many in their dealer network has handled this poorly however. For those with legit issues, I am sorry. I hope yours gets the fix it needs soon. For others, presumably like the OP, who have 100,000 miles on it, its evidence that some (most?) JTs on the road are working just fine.
 

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Great setup wish I had that fridge
We can make that happen! I have that one and five more. I started with the LiFePO4 batteries and then transitioned into the fridges. A friend got me my first few batteries but I bring them in myself now and I found the fridges and started buying them too. Just can’t justify $1300 for a Dometic when these work as good as they do.

93F5F63E-02FA-49B1-9AEC-52C1E3DA6035.jpeg


C9BF1EF4-0969-46A1-8A85-610E755555F9.jpeg


9F528D5A-A44A-4B56-9DC1-5E84DAA8FFF1.jpeg


212A377C-B404-49C2-9FB9-5F8697BD49F0.jpeg
 

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We can make that happen! I have that one and five more. I started with the LiFePO4 batteries and then transitioned into the fridges. A friend got me my first few batteries but I bring them in myself now and I found the fridges and started buying them too. Just can’t justify $1300 for a Dometic when these work as good as they do.

Jeep Gladiator 100,000 mile Gladiator review 212A377C-B404-49C2-9FB9-5F8697BD49F0


Jeep Gladiator 100,000 mile Gladiator review 212A377C-B404-49C2-9FB9-5F8697BD49F0


Jeep Gladiator 100,000 mile Gladiator review 212A377C-B404-49C2-9FB9-5F8697BD49F0


Jeep Gladiator 100,000 mile Gladiator review 212A377C-B404-49C2-9FB9-5F8697BD49F0
What's the price on that fridge? My brother has a new Gladiator that he's outfitting. He eventually wants one. That one looks great! I just don't have the space for one that large in my Jeep, so I've got a Snomaster 35L, which works great for me.
 
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OP you have any interior shots of your set up?
After I get it cleaned up I will post one I been on the road now for 2 weeks and it's kinda dirty
 

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Actually I was not making fun of those with serious problems. I do believe that there are some out there with serious legit issues however, I also think that the notion that every 2020 JT is a timebomb just waiting to go off is hyperbola. A mini hysteria has been created that has now slammed the brakes on all replacements. This doesnt benefit anyone. Everyone rushing to their dealer to get the parts, weather they need them or not has only exacerbated the problem. I will eventually get mine replaced but for now its not a problem and compared to my CJ, its a canyon carver. I will acknowledge that FCA and many in their dealer network has handled this poorly however. For those with legit issues, I am sorry. I hope yours gets the fix it needs soon. For others, presumably like the OP, who have 100,000 miles on it, its evidence that some (most?) JTs on the road are working just fine.
Ah, I took that wrong apparently.
Yes, I'd have to also summize that some, even perhaps most, of the JTs either have no problems, or they are comparable to older vehicles and the drivers/owners aren't considering them to be bad.
Mine was comparable to how my SX4 used to be with the 180,000+ mile original steering sector. I had driven it so long and the loose came on so very gradual, I knew it was worn but had no appreciation for how bad it was until I replaced it and then geesh, how did I get by with it?
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