2020 Mojave speakers quit working after attempting aftermarket sub and amp install

[jasthom7779]

Guys and gals, this issue may have been posted before, I need some help please! I’ve got a new to me 2020 Mojave and was in the process of installing aftermarket subs and an amp. During said process, I tapped into the two sets of twisted wires in the passenger side pillar to run back to my LOC. While doing so, I had to cut the wires due to my negligence, after cutting them and then splicing back together, I have no sound whatsoever coming from ANY speaker at all. I’ve checked all fuses under the hood, disconnected both batteries, tried to reset the radio(not sure if I am properly doing so) and I’m now at a loss….any ideas?
It does have the upgraded system with factory sub and amp.

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[Alx63]

Did you check the fuse in the Amp?

 

[Chasm]

I don't know the specifics of a 2020 Gladiator, but since you lost ALL sound, look for more fuses (or fusible link wires).

Also, use either a volt meter or a working speaker and some jumpers to test as close to the head unit as you can, trying both the speaker ground and an external ground.

My 1990's experience points to either that or something fried in the head unit. Hope that's not the case for you!

 

[WILDHOBO]

Guys and gals, this issue may have been posted before, I need some help please! I’ve got a new to me 2020 Mojave and was in the process of installing aftermarket subs and an amp. During said process, I tapped into the two sets of twisted wires in the passenger side pillar to run back to my LOC. While doing so, I had to cut the wires due to my negligence, after cutting them and then splicing back together, I have no sound whatsoever coming from ANY speaker at all. I’ve checked all fuses under the hood, disconnected both batteries, tried to reset the radio(not sure if I am properly doing so) and I’m now at a loss….any ideas?
It does have the upgraded system with factory sub and amp.

The issue is this. The head unit wants to detect load from the speakers. By putting an amp in place, I’m assuming with speaker level input, you’ve removed that load. So the head unit has disabled the speaker outputs to protect itself. You need load resistors between the head unit and your amp. That will resolve the issue.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I don't know the specifics of a 2020 Gladiator, but since you lost ALL sound, look for more fuses (or fusible link wires).

Also, use either a volt meter or a working speaker and some jumpers to test as close to the head unit as you can, trying both the speaker ground and an external ground.

My 1990's experience points to either that or something fried in the head unit. Hope that's not the case for you!

This isn’t it in this case. It’s a load issue.

 

[jasthom7779]

Did you check the fuse in the Amp?

Did you check the fuse in the Amp?

I’ve checked just about every fuse that I can find and none are blown.

The issue is this. The head unit wants to detect load from the speakers. By putting an amp in place, I’m assuming with speaker level input, you’ve removed that load. So the head unit has disabled the speaker outputs to protect itself. You need load resistors between the head unit and your amp. That will resolve the issue.

I’ve disconnected everything and put everything back to factory normal and still have nothing. I think that I may have fried the factory amp or something else.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I’ve checked just about every fuse that I can find and none are blown.

I’ve disconnected everything and put everything back to factory normal and still have nothing. I think that I may have fried the factory amp or something else.

You didn’t. Turn the vehicle off, get out with your key fob, shut the door and come back in 5 to 10 mins. If you’re back hooked up stock, I’m sure it’s fine. Same thing happened to me once while I was doing the identical project. The speakers need to be hooked up for it to resolve itself. It needs to see load.

 

[jasthom7779]

Do didn’t. Turn the vehicle off, get out with your key fob, shut the door and come back in 5 to 10 mins. If you’re back hooked up stock, I’m sure it’s fine. Same thing happened to me once while I was doing the identical project. The speakers need to be hooked up for it to resolve itself. It needs to see load.

Hopefully it will. I disconnected the head unit and batteries and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Hooked everything back up and still nothing. So guess I’ll give it some time and see what happens before I start going all aftermarket route.

 

[Chasm]

This isn’t it in this case

Like I said, my knowledge is a little out of date! The ones I fried back in the day had no such protection!

 

[WILDHOBO]

Hopefully it will. I disconnected the head unit and batteries and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Hooked everything back up and still nothing. So guess I’ll give it some time and see what happens before I start going all aftermarket route.

I’m quite confident you didn’t kill anything. I’m assuming you have a harness between the head unit and the vehicle, so you can splice without touching the vehicle harness?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Like I said, my knowledge is a little out of date! The ones I fried back in the day had no such protection!

Mine was as well. I also was worried I’d killed something. Until I consulted my audio guy.

 

[Camaroboi13]

The issue is this. The head unit wants to detect load from the speakers. By putting an amp in place, I’m assuming with speaker level input, you’ve removed that load. So the head unit has disabled the speaker outputs to protect itself. You need load resistors between the head unit and your amp. That will resolve the issue.

I don’t think that’s the issue here. If that were the case, the radio would only shut down the channels affected by the issue. Meaning he would still have dash speakers and sub output. If you try playing your radio and disconnect any speaker, then try and reconnect it, you will not get sound out of that particular speaker but all else will play fine. I know this by getting freaked out when swapping sound bar speakers and trying to do a comparison between the two. I hooked my subs up with an LCi2 in the same manner that the OP did, but I used wire taps instead of cutting and splicing. My system works flawlessly.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I don’t think that’s the issue here. If that were the case, the radio would only shut down the channels affected by the issue. Meaning he would still have dash speakers and sub output. If you try playing your radio and disconnect any speaker, then try and reconnect it, you will not get sound out of that particular speaker but all else will play fine. I know this by getting freaked out when swapping sound bar speakers and trying to do a comparison between the two. I hooked my subs up with an LCi2 in the same manner that the OP did, but I used wire taps instead of cutting and splicing. My system works flawlessly.

I could have sworn I lost all channels, but it’s been a while so I could be wrong.

You used wire taps for audio? I won’t even use those for power. For audio I prefer soldered connections.

 

[Camaroboi13]

I could have sworn I lost all channels, but it’s been a while so I could be wrong.

You used wire taps for audio? I won’t even use those for power. For audio I prefer soldered connections.

Indeed I did, wasn’t the first time and won’t be the last. I can understand the concern with electrical setups, but speaker wires are what, 18 gauge from the factory, and not necessarily drawing a ton of current there either. It’s just borrowing a signal, not powering the 2700w amp. For that I have 0/0 gauge through the firewall and 2 gauge at the seatbelt bolt. Been playing with car audio since 98, it was a passion of mine for a long time. I could flip quarters on the roof of my last car with two 10s. Not saying I’m a pro at it, just saying it works

 

[WILDHOBO]

Indeed I did, wasn’t the first time and won’t be the last. I can understand the concern with electrical setups, but speaker wires are what, 18 gauge from the factory, and not necessarily drawing a ton of current there either. It’s just borrowing a signal, not powering the 2700w amp. For that I have 0/0 gauge through the firewall and 2 gauge at the seatbelt bolt. Been playing with car audio since 98, it was a passion of mine for a long time. I could flip quarters on the roof of my last car with two 10s. Not saying I’m a pro at it, just saying it works

I get that it works, and I certainly get that you’re using signal input, but it still negatively affects sound. I’ve also been doing car and home audio since the early to mid 90’s. The integrity of the wire matters, even more when it’s small like 18. I prefer first a harness in between the head unit and factory connector, then cut the 8 speaker wires in the aftermarket harness, then splice in with solder/heat shrink connectors. It’s completely solid and never touches the factory wiring. Taps are fast, but that’s about the only good thing that can be said about them. Plastic clamps with a conductor shoving through insulation is going to fail eventually. Since you brought it up, the amount of volume or bass isn’t a measure of a quality sounding system. Anyone can hook up rca cables in 1999, 8 awg to a huge amp, and turn on a couple of 10s or 12s. It might rattle the fasteners in your vehicle, but why would one want that?

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