2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build

[Flyin6]

Time to get rid of some of the boxes clogging up my workspace in my garage.
Let's do the exhaust system first.
Off with the MBRP 2.5" system and on goes the new 3" Flowmaster system

Sponsored

 

[Flyin6]

This was an easy 50 min install which shed a couple of pounds and hopefully increased flow, which the supercharged engine needs.
The fit is uncluttered and neat.

 

[Flyin6]

Right after that, I installed the latest generation of the Rock Slide Engineering slider/steps.
This was not as easy an install, however, it went together perfectly.
I'd give RSE a "!0" for engineering and production of this component.

 

[Flyin6]

I did not weigh these sliders, but they were quite a bit heavier than the old Rough Country steps they replaced...Hmmm, pickin' up weight!

With the sliders installed, I was able to put the interior back together again. I gave everything a thorough cleaning that it needed.

 

[Flyin6]

I guess I have been putting off the long arm suspension installation. My knee is finally healed enough to get into some heavier work, so here we go.
Today I wanted to get the front suspension dialed in with some new components before starting to cut things off.
Here we see mostly Iron Rock components, but also some MetalCloak front spring pads

 

[Flyin6]

After jacking it up, and removing the wheels, I pulled the Clayton springs out to make room to cut the factory upper bump stop to make way for the new Hydro units.
You have to remove all but 2" of the factory bumper thing

 

[Flyin6]

Then the new hydro bump stop slips right in. I used anti-seize on the threads, which quickly transferred to my hands, shirt, and pants. I coated the inside of the tube with grease and screwed the collars into place, securing the unit.

 

[Flyin6]

I tested the new Iron Rock 4" lift springs and found them to be weaker than the Clayton Overland units, so I am staying with the Clayton units for now. I now have yet another set of springs for the Gladiator!
The MC lower spring perch went in along with everything else to finish the setup for now.
There is starting to be quite a bit going on here, with very little stock jeep remaining...

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

What size are the Clayton’s? And do they mount up good with the metal cloak pad? You’re putting in some WORK!!

 

[bd100]

May want to rotate that band clamp bolt upward so it is less likely to snag some brush and such. Hard to tell if it's sticking below the frame, though.

 

[Flyin6]

What size are the Clayton’s? And do they mount up good with the metal cloak pad? You’re putting in some WORK!!

The Clayton springs are for a 3.5" lift. When I compared them to the 4" Iron Rock springs, the claytons were a bit taller! When I tried to compress the Clayton spring, it didn't budge, but I was able to push the iron rock spring down a little, so I believe the Clayton springs have a more robust spring rate. And especially considering those Claytons have seen off-road duty in North Carolina, Kentucky, New Mexico, Colorado, and a couple more places.
Speaking of putting in the work, now comes the hard part. I'm cutting off the factory control arm fixtures...

 

[Flyin6]

May want to rotate that band clamp bolt upward so it is less likely to snag some brush and such. Hard to tell if it's sticking below the frame, though.

Good eye!
Yep, it's on my list of to-do's Not sure why I mounted it that way, but agree, that's a wait-ah-minute just waiting to happen

 

[Flyin6]

While I had the interior out to access the floor pan to do the wiring for the RSE sliders, I found a crack in the rear tray/seat delete. I pulled it and repaired it with fiberglass mat and resin, and it's as good as new. I think that big Bernese Mountain Dog of mine (149 lbs) put too much pressure on that spot!

 

[Flyin6]

I installed the bump stop on the passenger side, but ran into a wrinkle. The threaded insert that sits in the bottom spring perch popped out. I went through five Riv-Nuts before deciding that wasn't going to work because the metal there is too thick. So I epoxied in a block of nylon and drilled and threaded it.
The bump stop screwed down tightly, but we'll have to see if it can go the distance. I mean, it's not like the bump stop is going anywhere!
While I have access to everything, I clean stuff, then coat it with this tri-poly something. Dunno what's in that stuff, but I use it on everything. At $250 a gallon, it's not cheap, but the camper that I coated with it last summer is still beading water like I put it on last week.
Anyway, the theory is mud will find it more difficult to stick, and maybe, just maybe, some parts will live a bit longer without all that abrasion.

 

[Flyin6]

And here is where I begin my suspension delete.

I think I'll install a virtual long arm which will save a lot of weight and save me from having to do all the work! ;-)

Someone on Marketplace is about to score a 4" lift with Clayton arms, TerraFlex brackets, and Iron Rock springs!

Sponsored