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Jaxmax

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Damn that's tight, can you take off some of the radiator side of fan mount like basically sand off 1/8' or something? Guess the heater hoses can go over the top of motor, plenty of fastening points on manifold perhaps.

Then again, suck it up Don and delete that pesky heater setup :LOL: !
You are doing great!
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Jaxmax

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I still think the larger radiator was the right thing to do in long run.
 
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Flyin6

Flyin6

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Damn that's tight, can you take off some of the radiator side of fan mount like basically sand off 1/8' or something? Guess the heater hoses can go over the top of motor, plenty of fastening points on manifold perhaps.

Then again, suck it up Don and delete that pesky heater setup :LOL: !
You are doing great!
Delete the heater?
You cra-zee???
I'm a wuss, I need heat and AC!
I used to eat rattlesnakes and barbed wire, but now I aspire to the American norm: Fat and Lazy. (Not doing very well in that aspiration, guess 30+ years of velcro warped me!)

That fan shroud is only about 3/32" thick. I may have to trim it back some more where it wants to bump into the cold-side pipe.

Keep in mind, the thicker radiator causes this and would not be as much a factor if you stuck with the stocker.

Positive news, HP Tuners has completed the PCM modification and shipped it as of Fritag.
 

bd100

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It'll be interesting to see how things go as the engine moves around on its mounts during accel/decel.
 

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Flyin6

Flyin6

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It'll be interesting to see how things go as the engine moves around on its mounts during accel/decel.
I doubt we'll see anything unless I find evidence of some chaffing. This engine bay is now a great place to look for it since everything nearly touches everything else.
But having flown things that vibrate for nearly half my life, I have a keen eye for just that. I am doing what I can to mitigate, but who knows, something unforeseen may come back to visit.
In this installment, you will see one area that will likely be problematic. I am developing a plan to fix that...
 
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Flyin6

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Here is the cause of what will later fully develop into significant interference. I complained last time about the alignment of the cold pipe to the boot. I discovered that it was due to it hitting some material on the fan shroud. I carefully cut and filed away that area, creating a concave recess that corrected the misalignment.

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Flyin6

Flyin6

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Here's the blow-off valve. I assembled it and bolted it to the cold side pipe, then noticed how badly it interfered with the upper radiator hose. Essentially, I could have one or the other, not both!

This is all due to the added thickness of the HD radiator.

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Flyin6

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While I contemplated what I was going to do to correct that issue, I installed the air temp sensor, cut the manifold air line and spliced in the BOV hose (where it gets its signal of boost pressure).

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Flyin6

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I was at the point of mounting the Ripp catch can, but I already had a Morimoto unit installed, and it has a drain pipe that the Ripp unit does not. BTW, I drained the catch can and look at all the oil it had trapped!

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Flyin6

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It occurred to me that I could shorten up the radiator hose and modify the BOV to gain a bunch of clearance. I cut about 3/4" off the radiator end of the hose.

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Flyin6

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Then I removed the "Snout" from the BOV to get the clearance I needed to fit the thing in.

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Flyin6

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That did the trick, sort of. I had to cut off even more of the snout, and even with that, it's still touching the radiator hose. This will have to work for now, but I think I'll call Ripp to see if they can one-off a special pipe for me with the mounting flange rotated 20 degrees counterclockwise. I'll mount a brand-new BOV on that, or I'll have to weld one up myself.

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Flyin6

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Next up, the flashing on either side of the radiator was cut to fit the IC and snapped into place.

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Flyin6

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Yeah, that was a bit of a hack job on the radiator seals...

After polishing the headlight lenses and coating the plastic bodies, I tossed the headlights back in.

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