2024 rubicon x vibration after gears

[Stan H]

No o

So I got ahold of my alignment print out and found I was at 6.6 caster. Putting me at a 10.5 pinion angle. Talked to the guys at Adam’s driveshaft and they agree that angle is to steep. They said I should shoot in the 4’s for caster but might be able to get away with a caster of 5. So my steering shouldn’t be to bad. Should have everything done by Wednesday. I’ll update then! Hopefully I’m dialed in just in time for it’s first time out at badlands, IN

Offense but I dont think I would use the uneven surface of the yoke as a measuring point. JMHO

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[JT Nate]

No o

Offense but I dont think I would use the uneven surface of the yoke as a measuring point. JMHO

I’ve kinda had it with ya lol. I’ve kept my peace but you have had something negative and conflicting to say with every comment. That’s where I was told to measure. I moved it around multiple spots and they all read the same. You were completely wrong with your advice on caster angle. Only negative comments and zero help so offense taken

 

[Stan H]

Okay to each his own later .

 

[imallcrawl]

@JT Nate when I lifted my JKU and added 5.13's I had some vibrations as well, adjusted my driveshafts to a better angle and vibrations went away. I didn't even use a measuring thing, I just went based on what looked better to me lol

Also I wouldn't take online comments too seriously brother, at least I don't. Been working on the internet before social media got insanely out of hand and learned if online comments bother you then best don't put yourself out there. But if you do and dont like the feedback then just let roll off your back. The users here are cool and any negative comments I receive I normally just laugh it off

 

[JT Nate]

@JT Nate when I lifted my JKU and added 5.13's I had some vibrations as well, adjusted my driveshafts to a better angle and vibrations went away. I didn't even use a measuring thing, I just went based on what looked better to me lol

Also I wouldn't take online comments too seriously brother, at least I don't. Been working on the internet before social media got insanely out of hand and learned if online comments bother you then best don't put yourself out there. But if you do and dont like the feedback then just let roll off your back. The users here are cool and any negative comments I receive I normally just laugh it off

Haha I know…. I’m a FF so I can roll with the best of them. But I also don’t mind letting people know when I have an issue. I don’t name call or usually don’t even bother but I did this time. Just didn’t know what his deal was. I’m over it. And thanks for jumping in. I figure that’s what it is. I would do it myself but
They are gonna do an alignment and it’s covered. So why not right? Also the shops right off the highway so I’ll know right away. Also they need to adjust the rear as well cause at full extension the rear driveshaft hits the collar so I’ll have them adjust that too.

 

[imallcrawl]

Haha I know…. I’m a FF so I can roll with the best of them. But I also don’t mind letting people know when I have an issue. I don’t name call or usually don’t even bother but I did this time. Just didn’t know what his deal was. I’m over it. And thanks for jumping in. I figure that’s what it is. I would do it myself but
They are gonna do an alignment and it’s covered. So why not right? Also the shops right off the highway so I’ll know right away. Also they need to adjust the rear as well cause at full extension the rear driveshaft hits the collar so I’ll have them adjust that too.

If the alignment is covered then do it and if the vibration is still there take it to the shop who did the install, most times the fix would be free since they did it. Good luck brother and keep us posted, would love to see what exactly is causing the vibration whether it be caster or faulty gears and/or installation.

 

[scramblerracer]

2024 JTR
I had the same issue, Caster at 6 degrees, 2.5 Metal Cloak lift, Metal Cloak driveshaft. Drove good, no vibration. I installed 5:13 gears, no other changes. New vibration at upper highway speeds. Checked gears, everything good. Finally reinstalled stock front driveshaft and vibration is gone at all speeds. Reinstalled Metal Cloak drive shaft and vibration reappears. Until I can find install a switched FAD motor I’m back to the stock shaft. Our 24s have all the bad parts of the FAD system that make the axle housing and shafts weaker, without the one benefit of decoupling the front axle.

 

[JT Nate]

2024 JTR
I had the same issue, Caster at 6 degrees, 2.5 Metal Cloak lift, Metal Cloak driveshaft. Drove good, no vibration. I installed 5:13 gears, no other changes. New vibration at upper highway speeds. Checked gears, everything good. Finally reinstalled stock front driveshaft and vibration is gone at all speeds. Reinstalled Metal Cloak drive shaft and vibration reappears. Until I can find install a switched FAD motor I’m back to the stock shaft. Our 24s have all the bad parts of the FAD system that make the axle housing and shafts weaker, without the one benefit of decoupling the front axle.

You’re the guy I’ve been looking for hahaha. I’ve been trying to figure out what I need to do to install the rest of the FAD. Is it just the motor? Anyways I’ll know Wednesday if a caster of 5 will take the vibration away. I have a 3.5 in lift so it’s a must for pinion/ driveshaft angle with the double cardan joint Adams DS. Otherwise I would do the same. 2.5 you can get away with stock.

 

[scramblerracer]

Yes, our 24s have a cover that has the fork permanently holding the axle sleeve in the locked position. We should be able to remove that cover, and install a fad motor with a manual switch. I considered removing the cover, manually sliding the coupler over to decouple then reinstalling the cover for road trips, then upon arrival to wheeling destination take cover off and slide coupler back over but there would be a loss of gear oil and risk of a leak removing and reinstalling the cover away from home

 

[JT1]

You’re the guy I’ve been looking for hahaha. I’ve been trying to figure out what I need to do to install the rest of the FAD. Is it just the motor? Anyways I’ll know Wednesday if a caster of 5 will take the vibration away. I have a 3.5 in lift so it’s a must for pinion/ driveshaft angle with the double cardan joint Adams DS. Otherwise I would do the same. 2.5 you can get away with stock.

You can get away with the stock front shaft for a while. I'm running the same lift on 37s and wheeled it and street driven it for 35,000 miles with no issues.
I'm getting close to needing a new CV at the transfer case for the front, but so far it has only deformed the ring and slung a tiny bit of grease.
Once the boot rips, it dies in short order.
The thing that kills it is a front extended shock length over 28.5". Fix the front caster, if it still vibrates, it's the front shaft.

 

[JT Nate]

You can get away with the stock front shaft for a while. I'm running the same lift on 37s and wheeled it and street driven it for 35,000 miles with no issues.
I'm getting close to needing a new CV at the transfer case for the front, but so far it has only deformed the ring and slung a tiny bit of grease.
Once the boot rips, it dies in short order.
The thing that kills it is a front extended shock length over 28.5". Fix the front caster, if it still vibrates, it's the front shaft.

Great advice! And yeah u can get away with it but eventually she’ll need one. I’m gonna see if a caster of 5 splits the difference between steering comfort and getting rid of the vibration

 

[JT1]

Great advice! And yeah u can get away with it but eventually she’ll need one. I’m gonna see if a caster of 5 splits the difference between steering comfort and getting rid of the vibration

Yeah, I have a replacement CV joint for the stock shaft sitting in the garage. If I get 40k out of each joint, and don't have to buy a new shaft, leaves me more money for other things that would improve it's performance.

I still think the 1310 aftermarket shafts are probably the smart answer. They tolerate misalignment a little better than the 1350s do.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Funny how people "think" 1350 is an upgrade and go for it.........Its a wider cross so the shaft speed oscillates more when the angles aren't perfect. Then you deleted the FAD? I can see a 1350 for the rear shaft , but I feel 1310 front is more appropriate for a vehicle that isn't getting beat.

You can literally be all over the place on tiny joints that are in say a Suzuki Samurai, but jump up to the Yota drivelines and have all kinds of issues.

I will never "upgrade" my front driveline since I'm happy with the 11"+ of travel the OEM shaft supports.

 

[JT1]

Funny how people "think" 1350 is an upgrade and go for it.........Its a wider cross so the shaft speed oscillates more when the angles aren't perfect. Then you deleted the FAD? I can see a 1350 for the rear shaft , but I feel 1310 front is more appropriate for a vehicle that isn't getting beat.

You can literally be all over the place on tiny joints that are in say a Suzuki Samurai, but jump up to the Yota drivelines and have all kinds of issues.

I will never "upgrade" my front driveline since I'm happy with the 11"+ of travel the OEM shaft supports.

Now if someone would just make a high angle CV or rzeppa we could retrofit..

 

[CrazyCooter]

Now if someone would just make a high angle CV or rzeppa we could retrofit..

I have seen a high angle Rzeppa from Teraflex for the JK, but they don't show compatibility with the JT. I had an OEM shaft here, but got tired of tripping over it and scrapped........Would be nice to have it for comparison about now?

Hard for a manufacturer to develop something like that when the "gold standard" is to toss the "POS" OE shaft and swap a 1350?

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