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20ft lbs?

In3briatedPanda

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Because I'll never ever tq your stupid plastic filter for you.
i wouldnt let you touch my POS troy built lawnmower, let alone anything i drive.

you dont torque head bolts. i can do a poor job myself, i dont need your help.
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CrazyCooter

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The problem I commonly see is when you entrust your needs to a trusted provider billing you the high rates, but put a low paid tech on it doing sub quality work. As the honest qualified labor pool shrinks, this problem is going to get much worse.......

I see hack work almost daily....I hate to point it out because I'm not the "automotive repair police", but when a 2ga power cable is poked through the trunk without a grommet and laying on a new exhaust system.........That POS could burn my shop down while it in my possession???!!!
 

In3briatedPanda

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The problem I commonly see is when you entrust your needs to a trusted provider billing you the high rates, but put a low paid tech on it doing sub quality work. As the honest qualified labor pool shrinks, this problem is going to get much worse.......

I see hack work almost daily....I hate to point it out because I'm not the "automotive repair police", but when a 2ga power cable is poked through the trunk without a grommet and laying on a new exhaust system.........That POS could burn my shop down while it in my possession???!!!
tech states: 'why do it right the first time when warranty will pay me to do it twice.' that tech no longer works here.
 

Badunit

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Never torqued a lugnut, oil drain plug, filter fuel or oil, spark plug, intake bolt, manifold bolt, head bolt, pretty much any external engine or chassis bolt ever in my life 🤷‍♂️

People insisting their stupid plastic filter housing be "properly" torqued using only the finest unobtanium Snap On digital torque/angle meter while wanting to pay 29.99 for an oil change and be out in ten minutes makes me grateful daily I pursued a STEM career and left wrenching as a hobby.
The filter housing doesn't really require a specific torque to keep it from backing off or to stretch a bolt or to create a required mating force, so no need to use a torque wrench except for those people who might overdo it. But several of those other things on your list do require a specific torque and some require multiple bolts have the same torque (even if it is not exactly the right torque). I guess you have a well calibrated arm. Do you look at the torque specs at all or just go by what feels right?
 

CrazyCooter

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I had a tech acquire that attitude, but terminated him before I let him ruin my business.......So I got to do the warranty repairs myself unpaid. At least they were mostly minor leak issues.....took about 2 years before I didn't see anything come back leaking.

I had clients complaining that the waits were too long and I should hire a replacement.....one came back for a warranty leak and I asked him IF he would rather wait a little longer or get sub quality work done quicker requiring a second trip in?

I have the one and done mentality!
 

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CrazyCooter

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The filter housing doesn't really require a specific torque to keep it from backing off or to stretch a bolt or to create a required mating force, so no need to use a torque wrench except for those people who might overdo it. But several of those other things on your list do require a specific torque and some require multiple bolts have the same torque (even if it is not exactly the right torque). I guess you have a well calibrated arm. Do you look at the torque specs at all or just go by what feels right?
I have a pretty torque calibrated elbow after almost 34 years in the biz, but I still torque the small weak stuff like trans pans/filters, plastic filter housings, and other potentially critical items. I figure the client is paying me the rate to properly do it, so why rush and chance it?

About 12 years ago I figured out that there were people willing to pay for perfection (or as close as possible). Why not raise the rate a little bit, slow down, and put out a better product than everyone else in town?

I recently had a new client bring in a 4runner for quick technical job and I then had a hole in the schedule....He immediately brought back his wife's disabled Mazda CX5 that [Insert national parts chain here] had done their diagnostic on and determined he needed an alternator along with his failed battery because idle voltage was 12.7. Shops were quoting him $800+, but I determined that the it was normal "smart alternator bs".......Solved! He then wanted me to change the oil and told me he wanted the best.........I made him an estimate for Amsoil fluids and filter along with the .6 hour labor time.....HE strait up freaked out and bailed without even offering to pay any diagnostic!? 😄 I was good/honest enough to save him the $800+, but not worth the cost to provide the best?
 
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OVERLORD

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I have a pretty torque calibrated elbow after almost 34 years in the biz, but I still torque the small weak stuff like trans pans/filters, plastic filter housings, and other potentially critical items. I figure the client is paying me the rate to properly do it, so why rush and chance it?

About 12 years ago I figured out that there were people willing to pay for perfection (or as close as possible). Why not raise the rate a little bit, slow down, and put out a better product than everyone else in town?
After thirty plus years in aviation maintenance, I can't put the torque wrench down.

What is handy ........

My wrist clicks purty close to 15 inch pounds.

My elbow clicks accurately at 27 Newton meters.

My shoulder pops at 130 pound feet plus or minus five.
 

CrazyCooter

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After thirty plus years in aviation maintenance, I can't put the torque wrench down.

What is handy ........

My wrist clicks purty close to 15 inch pounds.

My elbow clicks accurately at 27 Newton meters.

My shoulder pops at 130 pound feet plus or minus five.
My shoulder was popping yesterday while tightening up an exhaust pipe! I thought WTH?

How many more years of this do I really have left in me?
 

Jrgunn5150

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The filter housing doesn't really require a specific torque to keep it from backing off or to stretch a bolt or to create a required mating force, so no need to use a torque wrench except for those people who might overdo it. But several of those other things on your list do require a specific torque and some require multiple bolts have the same torque (even if it is not exactly the right torque). I guess you have a well calibrated arm. Do you look at the torque specs at all or just go by what feels right?
I have no idea what the tq specs are for anything I build. Don't care, doesn't matter. Some bolts need to be kinda tight, some need to be really tight, the end.

I have seven, running, driving, all engine swapped classic trucks, a 74 Firebird, a Harley, and my daily Ram and Gladiator.

The people on the couch visiting the dealer for oil changes know best though, I've definitely learned that over the years 🙂
 

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Jrgunn5150

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Here's a lovely photo of younger me using an angle grinder to prep the deck surface of that very same engine 8 years ago

Jeep Gladiator 20ft lbs? Screenshot 2025-10-22 165912
 

g2020

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For those of us who torque to spec when changing the oil & filter:

Required for both parts:
Ratchet​
Torque wrench​

Hex head Oil Drain Plug (MOPAR 06513414AA)
1/2" box wrench, or box end of combination wrench, to loosen drain plug​
1/2" six-point socket, to remove & reinstall drain plug​
20 ft-lbs of torque, when reinstalling drain plug​
Notes:​
- In reality, the hex head is 1/2"; using a 13 mm wrench or socket will round the flats over time (or in one visit to a shop if they torque more than 30 ft-lbs)
- Applying more than 20 ft-lbs of torque will crush the molded gasket
- In my experience, it is much easier to get an independent complete-care shop to torque to spec, especially if some of the techs are enrolled in an automotive training program; steer clear of dealer & independent quick lubes

Plastic Oil Filter Housing Cap Kit (MOPAR 68191350AA)
15/16" six-point socket​
10" socket extension​
18 ft-lbs of torque, when reinstalling housing cap​

- Remember to reset the Oil Change Indicator System
- A complete list of requirements is provided in my post on
Requirements for Changing Oil & Filter...
 
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ecidiego

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I have no idea what the tq specs are for anything I build. Don't care, doesn't matter. Some bolts need to be kinda tight, some need to be really tight, the end.

I have seven, running, driving, all engine swapped classic trucks, a 74 Firebird, a Harley, and my daily Ram and Gladiator.

The people on the couch visiting the dealer for oil changes know best though, I've definitely learned that over the years 🙂
So... we're saying the massive, expensive head torque rigs manufacturers use.... are..... worthless? Just curious... those machines are HUGE money. Manufacturers care about the investors only..... so why are they assembling engines with this tech?
 

Hootbro

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I have no idea what the tq specs are for anything I build. Don't care, doesn't matter. Some bolts need to be kinda tight, some need to be really tight, the end.
You are a rebel. Can I subscribe to your newsletter for other "sage" advice?
 

Lost1wing

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I just torqued the waterpump and oil pan bolts on my Grand Cherokee. Nothing else got torqued.
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