3.5 Lift Kit RC or Skyjacker

[Waffen6]

Like always plans change and feeling the 2.5 leveling kit wont be enough. So Im going to return it and order something else. Either the RC 60100 kit or the skyjacker G350RPELT. RC kit comes with 4 springs but nothing for lower control arms and is $230 cheaper. The SJ kit has front springs with rear spacers and new lower control arms. Both kits will use my factory fox shocks. Will I need new lower control arms or at least brackets? Can do brackets with the RC kit and still save $130. Which kit should I get?

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[Pescatoral Pursuit]

My 3.5" Skyjacker lift has given me 20k+trouble free miles. I added a front track bar, rear ¾" spacers, and driveshaft carrier spacer and I'm happy.
Also the lift is for gas and mines a diesel as I wanted the suspension to be more dynamic for trail riding. Whether the latter is or not I don't know but the lift is solid especially the fixed length lower control arms. (Mine came with rear springs which I augmented with the spacers, and instead of rear control arms used the driveshaft spacer to correct that geometry.)
As far as your shocks, measure overall length resting, then your shock travel to find out if you need brackets. You want roughly equal amounts of up and down travel AND your bump stops should be adjusted to make contact just before your shocks bottom out.

 

[cberges77]

I just installed the 2.5" Skyjacker lift on my Gladiator with Rough Country adjustable track bar and lower control arm brackets. Easily clears 37s on 12" wide wheels. No complaints about my setup

 

[SSinGA]

You just can't lift a Jeep 3.5" and not add castor correction (arms or brackets) or track bars. Your suspension geometry and driveline will be so out of whack if you don't.

IMO, shock extensions on a 3.5" lift are a bit sketchy too. Make sure you get and setup proper bumpstop lengths which will end up severely impacting the suspension uptravel.

 

[Mojave20]

I put the similar RC 3.5” Mojave specific kit on mine. The shock extensions are 3” center to center on the shock mounting hole extension. You should plan on adding some things with this kit that aren’t included. I added a rear driveshaft bearing spacer, geo correction brackets, rear bump extensions, 0.5” front spring spacer. The longer front sway bar links are too short with the kit, has the bar on a downward angle. I broke a link bolt flexing and just removed the link for the day with no issues. Stock front driveshaft hasn’t had any vibrations up to 35mph in 4hi. Ride is good but one thing I don’t like so far is how easy the rear sags with a few hundred pounds in the bed.

 

[Panthers65]

What is your end goal?

If you are planning on heavier wheeling, I'd probably go the Skyjacker kit, the rear spacers should only be an inch and a half and won't affect articulation too much. The front lower control arms will allow for caster correction, and all aftermarket control arms will flex better than the factory arms.

However lifting the Jeep with the longer lowers will increase the angle of the lowers that will transfer more energy into the frame = harsher ride. No it won't be the end of the world, but it will be worse than factory.

given above, if you are going for a nicer ride, I'd do the RC kit and add some geometry correction brackets with the savings. This will drop the LCA angle back down and help the suspension transfer less energy into the frame. The savings may also make it easier to upgrade to a nicer set of shocks for a better ride.

 

[Waffen6]

What is your end goal?

If you are planning on heavier wheeling, I'd probably go the Skyjacker kit, the rear spacers should only be an inch and a half and won't affect articulation too much. The front lower control arms will allow for caster correction, and all aftermarket control arms will flex better than the factory arms.

However lifting the Jeep with the longer lowers will increase the angle of the lowers that will transfer more energy into the frame = harsher ride. No it won't be the end of the world, but it will be worse than factory.

given above, if you are going for a nicer ride, I'd do the RC kit and add some geometry correction brackets with the savings. This will drop the LCA angle back down and help the suspension transfer less energy into the frame. The savings may also make it easier to upgrade to a nicer set of shocks for a better ride.

Thanks I am looking for the best ride. Wont be too much off roading maybe a mild trail a couple times a year. More looking for best on road comfort for when I start driving it daily. So lower control arm brackets provide a better ride then longer control arms? What about shocks? Like the factory fox ones but would any of the ones that come in the kits like skyjackers black max have a better on road ride?

 

[Panthers65]

Thanks I am looking for the best ride. Wont be too much off roading maybe a mild trail a couple times a year. More looking for best on road comfort for when I start driving it daily. So lower control arm brackets provide a better ride then longer control arms? What about shocks? Like the factory fox ones but would any of the ones that come in the kits like skyjackers black max have a better on road ride?

"So lower control arm brackets provide a better ride then longer control arms?"

Correct- Keeping the LCAs as flat as possible results in the best ride. Look at it from the extreme, put your LCA's at 45* and then picture you jeep hitting a speed bump from the side. in order for the tire to go "Up" it also has to go forwards, towards the front of the Jeep. Since the bump you hit is trying to push the axle back, at the same time the LCA is trying to push the axle forward, most of the energy is transferred directly to the frame via the LCA. Hopefully you'll never ride in a rig with the LCA's at 45*, so it won't be as bad, but it helps to visualize it.

I wouldn't give a lot of weight to the shocks until you step up to something real premium. Shocks basically come in 3 flavors,

Low pressure/Monotube shocks are the lowest, they don't rebound when you push them, they just use oil and valving to slow down compression/extension

Pressurized- What most everything uses today. Factory and most the basic aftermarket shocks fall into this category. pull them out of the box and cut the holding strap and the shock fully extends on its own and is hard the push back.

Tunable/performance- This is the category above on steroids. Think you $2K+ shock packages, Fox, Kings, desert-racing type of shock. often with reservoirs/bypasses, ect....

There's some overlap on the above, and obviously some manufactures have better quality control than others, but that gives you a good idea.

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