3.6 Engine Tick

[NAVYSAR04]

Hi everyone. New to the forum and new to Jeep/Gladiator. I researched mid-sized truck for towing our little (3.2k lb) travel trailer and hunting. Did great on a late season oryx hunt and pulled trailer easy. I purchased with 14k miles and did the oil change at 19.5k. Now at 20,675 I thought I heard a ticking on the left side so I opened the hood and heard it louder. I also noticed oil moisture on the valve cover and looks to be seeping from sensor at front of passenger valve cover. Does this sound par for the dreaded rocker/lifter issue? Thanks for any help

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[Zapper]

NAVYSAR04 I'm not an expert, but I have done a cam replacement for the dreaded 3.6 VVL tick.

It's usually the passenger side (right side) intake that goes.

Always hard to tell from a video, but that sounds like normal injectors to me.

 

[darkhorse13]

I also noticed oil moisture on the valve cover and looks to be seeping from sensor at front of passenger valve cover. Does this sound par for the dreaded rocker/lifter issue? Thanks for any help

My 2020 JTR with 61K miles sounds the same. I think I'm becoming overly sensitive to the tick as I begin to read more and more threads. I swear though that I just started hearing or honing in on this within the last 2k miles. My noise doesn't change from cold start to being fully warmed though... it's just constant and also doesn't fluctuate with RPM changes between 2500-3000 like others with a "knock" have mentioned.

BUT, both my cam shaft position sensor seals on each valve cover are wet like yours. I am seriously considering tearing down the top end to replace all the seals in the covers and inspect my passenger side cams/rockers/lash adjusters this summer just to make sure.

 

[Bigboy 99]

Right side intake cam is toast. Any idea on how long they are on backorder? I've had a few orders just get canceled with no back order date, for both cam only and the kit.

 

[NAVYSAR04]

My 2020 JTR with 61K miles sounds the same. I think I'm becoming overly sensitive to the tick as I begin to read more and more threads. I swear though that I just started hearing or honing in on this within the last 2k miles. My noise doesn't change from cold start to being fully warmed though... it's just constant and also doesn't fluctuate with RPM changes between 2500-3000 like others with a "knock" have mentioned.

BUT, both my cam shaft position sensor seals on each valve cover are wet like yours. I am seriously considering tearing down the top end to replace all the seals in the covers and inspect my passenger side cams/rockers/lash adjusters this summer just to make sure.

I took it to the dealer and was told the sound is most likely injector knock. They did offer to look at it but would need to keep for 5-7days. The service manager gave the percentage of “One out of every twenty vehicle with the 3.6L is a lemon.” Then went on to tell me about how a recent owner returned after having the passenger rocker arm assembly and cam replaced with a need for a new engine. Said he’s seen another who’s new ly replaced motor began having rocker arm bearing issues again! I tell you, not feeling warm and fuzzy about this rig right now. You have to figure there’s 95% of owners out there without the issue though; guess it’s the only way to make yourself feel better?

 

[NAVYSAR04]

Right side intake cam is toast. Any idea on how long they are on backorder? I've had a few orders just get canceled with no back order date, for both cam only and the kit.

Service manager told me there’s a nationwide shortage of parts and it’s just a matter of the shop you take it too; whether they have some on hand or not. Those dealers who do don’t barter or sell to others cause they know they’ll eventually need them. As far as resourcing for self repair I’ve read numerous folks in here who can’t resource the OEM parts. The shop here in NM said they have em on hand and have one of the quickest turnaround times with head repairs averaging 3-5weeks and full engine replacements in about 2-4 months. For us we get no loaner/rental coverage which would cost us hundreds to thousands depending on the repair required. That Toyota car lot is starting to look mighty inviting, haha.

 

[Zapper]

Cam supply has been a problem for a long time (2 years?).

It makes me wonder. Is the problem just that Chrysler's most popular motor has a flaw and they are going through them like crazy, or is Stellantis slow to pay suppliers?

Not many things keep me up at night, but the idea of being without a truck for several months while making payments does...

 

[Hunter#1]

I'm glad I leased my Glad. Stellantis is a lousy company. I love Jeeps, but I feel sorry for the next owner who gets my truck . A shortage of parts. They took a pretty good product and cheapened it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The service manager gave the percentage of “One out of every twenty vehicle with the 3.6L is a lemon.”

I don't believe that for a minute.

 

[NAVYSAR04]

I don't believe that for a minute.

It’s obviously water cooler banter spoken by someone other than the technicians performing the shop hours, but it is none the less someone who sees and hears the number of owners coming through with echoing complaints/concerns. Honestly, whether its 1/20 or 1/1,000 it means none the difference when you’re the smaller percentage without a vehicle who have paid with time, sweat, and energy for a vehicle you’re not driving. It’s even more deflating once you incur add cost secondary to the investment you believed whole heartedly was going to take you past 50,000 miles worry free let alone half that. It’s just an inconvenience and disservice no matter the number, and someone’s eating it. Have gratitude when it’s your day for the Sun to warm your backend

 

[jstockton]

It makes me wonder.
However, "oiling issue" should mean phaser troubles, lash adjuster issues, chain tensioner issues and so on since it comes from the same source. The oil gallery feeds the camshaft bearing journals via hole in the front end of the shaft, and the followers and cam lobes through the lash adjusters.

Something would have to cause a lack of oil to the head and it's a fairly large passage.
I'd want to run something through the passages in the heads to be sure of how clean and open things were. But I know most will just throw new shafts and followers on the head and move on.

I'd be interested in what oil was used, the viscosity, age/miles and so on, as well.

What would you use to run through the passages? I think I have debris in mine.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

What would you use to run through the passages? I think I have debris in mine.

Phazer cleaning can be actuated from a pro diagnostic tool.

 

[JeepCares]

Service manager told me there’s a nationwide shortage of parts and it’s just a matter of the shop you take it too; whether they have some on hand or not. Those dealers who do don’t barter or sell to others cause they know they’ll eventually need them. As far as resourcing for self repair I’ve read numerous folks in here who can’t resource the OEM parts. The shop here in NM said they have em on hand and have one of the quickest turnaround times with head repairs averaging 3-5weeks and full engine replacements in about 2-4 months. For us we get no loaner/rental coverage which would cost us hundreds to thousands depending on the repair required. That Toyota car lot is starting to look mighty inviting, haha.

Hi Dave,

We are sorry to learn about your engine concerns. If you need extra support alongside the dealership, please send our team a private message.

Blair
Jeep Cares

 

[jstockton]

Phazer cleaning can be actuated from a pro diagnostic tool.

I tried this method and it didn't help at all.

If you feel like clicking over to one of the JL Forums, I posted this earlier today with what I've been doing.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...rade-engine-without-removing-the-head.147295/

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Phazer cleaning can be actuated from a pro diagnostic tool.

All that does is work the phasers themselves back and forth to free them. Debris in the passages or galleries - or anything in the lash adjuster "nozzle" area is a manual clean thing but unless someone was messy with a repair or filter change or something else went wrong, there's no reason for debris to be there (other than during original assembly - rare in that case, too)

I always used very long stainless steel pipe cleaners in oil passages and galleries when cleaning engines I was rebuilding.

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