3.6 Engine Tick

[SergioGmz]

I would send in a oil sample, they are pretty cheap now, just to see if your cam lobes are getting scored. You could also up your oil weight as your mileage may have altered tolerances that otherwise wouldn't have been heard with the thinner oil. 5w-30. Id check with the dealer first before running thicker oil in case it screws with warranty.

That's a really good point. Since all these new engines are coming there is like this thought of , No, just use the recommended oil viscosity, because of the spec, and they design the engine this way, and many other opinions. Yes, when you are under warranty, bumper to bumper 3years 36 k miles , or powertrain warranty 5years 60k miles this apply, but what happen after that?

Some have said here that Stellantis/Jeep dont give any kind of recommendation because you are out of warranty, it does not matter, if you pass that limit without a problem, pretty much they are done with their job, their promise, so theres not a actual official recommendation of '' Above 75k used this oil viscosity, above 100 k used this''.

With my old Jeep wranglers (98 and 2002) with the 4.0, used to put all the way to 20w-50 High Milage haha, both ran like a champ, but that a very different beast.

While I was writing this, I thought is there and actual 0w-20 high mileage ?, and yes there actually are:

So what would be better for a 3.6 Pentastar with above 75k? go higher in viscosity to 5w-30 or use a 0w-20 viscosity, but with (I guess) additives that enhance and are better suited for high mileage engines ?

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[Jobofly]

Mine had it happen - just got it back yesterday. Replaced both Intake and exhaust cams, rockers, and lifters. Dealership had it for about 2 weeks. I *almost* forwarded this thread to my rep at the dealership. Didn't think it would win me any brownie points though.
It was covered under warranty. Thankfully. I did the Livernois tune about 40k miles ago.

Livernois didnt effect the warranty?

 

[PuddleJumper]

That's a really good point. Since all these new engines are coming there is like this thought of , No, just use the recommended oil viscosity, because of the spec, and they design the engine this way, and many other opinions. Yes, when you are under warranty, bumper to bumper 3years 36 k miles , or powertrain warranty 5years 60k miles this apply, but what happen after that?

Some have said here that Stellantis/Jeep dont give any kind of recommendation because you are out of warranty, it does not matter, if you pass that limit without a problem, pretty much they are done with their job, their promise, so theres not a actual official recommendation of '' Above 75k used this oil viscosity, above 100 k used this''.

With my old Jeep wranglers (98 and 2002) with the 4.0, used to put all the way to 20w-50 High Milage haha, both ran like a champ, but that a very different beast.

While I was writing this, I thought is there and actual 0w-20 high mileage ?, and yes there actually are:

So what would be better for a 3.6 Pentastar with above 75k? go higher in viscosity to 5w-30 or use a 0w-20 viscosity, but with (I guess) additives that enhance and are better suited for high mileage engines ?

Your guess is as good as mine. But I definitely would runner thicker with higher mileage and run high mileage specific oil as well.

 

[IamWardicus]

Livernois didnt effect the warranty?

I wasn't questioned about it at the dealership I went to (thankfully!!!!!)
The only records they wanted were my oil change records

 

[jav_eee]

Purchased in June 2019, currently 86k miles, started hearing the famous tick of the 3.6 Pentastar like 8 months ago and the noise increased slowly until I decided It was moment to do something about it. I leave a video here to show you how it sounded.

I saw couple of videos online and read threads here, and the most common thing is the failure of the rockers, which cause a play in its movement and eventually damaged the camshaft. So based in these videos, where people was doing the job, I was thinking to do it myself, then I thought to bring it to my friends from a Stellantis Dealership in Mexico, where I used to work couple of year ago, to get a better price, but currently they are short in personnel and I was not sure if they have the same technicians and capable people to do this. Also I looked around for local Engine shops, but not luck or the service and prices I expected. I ended up in my local dealership, located McAllen, TX, same where I did all my services while I was under warranty, they are good people. Reference: After my warranty ended I continue to do my oil changes myself every 5k, so no problem due to lack of maintenance.

The result was, damaged intake rocker arm damaged from codriver side which caused damaged to Intake Camshaft. Taking advantage that both heads were open when the diagnostic was been made, all Intake Rockers were changed (I then though that I messed up since I could ask to exchange the exhaust rocker arms since they had the Heads open, each rocker arm coast around 11 dll, but well lets hope they are ok for another good amount of time). I think the cost of everything was ok, based on the prices that I have seen here, labor and parts, with a 10% discount was $2,844.27.

I have seen people here with these engines failing at 22k miles, others above 150k miles without a problem. So is there actually a trigger cause? I put a snorkel around the 40k miles, is there a chance that the increased air flow cause an extra out of spec pressure and lead to a premature failure of these rockers? Is just natural result of the lack of rocker quality or the engine design? were all that Mud, Sand, Snow, Rocks, donuts too much for the engine? All of the above?

Hope this fixed last for a long time, before anything else fail.

RGV GANG RISE UP

but damn that sucks.

 

[seven30]

My Turn! late 2021 Mojave 72k miles. Noticed poorer millage starting a few weeks ago. On Saturday trip to Texas check engine flashed a few times then stayed on. Power down and noticeable tick. Code 200A and random misfire code. All pressures and temps remained normal.

Oil changes at ~5k intervals Quaker States premium synthetic 0-20 with mopar filters. (I mark/save all filters with date/mi).

@JeepCares how is it you make cars who's brake pads last longer than the engine??

I feel like a fool buying this Mojave.
Tomorrow when I drive my 286K Mile Cherokee to work and coworkers ask "where's the Gladiator" its going to be pretty embarrassing to have to admit my $50K Jeep has had major engine failure just out of warranty.

-Tom

 

[seven30]

My Turn! late 2021 Mojave 72k miles. Noticed poorer millage starting a few weeks ago. On Saturday trip to Texas check engine flashed a few times then stayed on. Power down and noticeable tick. Code 200A and random misfire code. All pressures and temps remained normal.

Oil changes at ~5k intervals Quaker States premium synthetic 0-20 with mopar filters. (I mark/save all filters with date/mi).

@JeepCares how is it you make cars who's brake pads last longer than the engine??

I feel like a fool buying this Mojave.
Tomorrow when I drive my 286K Mile Cherokee to work and coworkers ask "where's the Gladiator" its going to be pretty embarrassing to have to admit my $50K Jeep has had major engine failure just out of warranty.

-Tom

Update: My mechanic fixed jeep. Every high lift lobe on the passenger side intake was destroyed along with of course the rockers. Left side was perfect. Ill post a pic later but I think its pretty plain that one cam with complete failure vs the other still in great shape points to a serious deficiency in either quality control or possibly design issue. Or maybe I should have changed the right bank oil more often.

 

[Hootbro]

Update: My mechanic fixed jeep. Every high lift lobe on the passenger side intake was destroyed along with of course the rockers. Left side was perfect. Ill post a pic later but I think its pretty plain that one cam with complete failure vs the other still in great shape points to a serious deficiency in either quality control or possibly design issue. Or maybe I should have changed the right bank oil more often.

I would suggest a couple of early oil changes to flush out any remaining debris. Then maybe consider an oil analysis every oil change or every other oil change to monitor. Will not prevent any wear, but at least you can see were your engine is trending.

 

[seven30]

I would suggest a couple of early oil changes to flush out any remaining debris. Then maybe consider an oil analysis every oil change or every other oil change to monitor. Will not prevent any wear, but at least you can see were your engine is trending.

And no more 0-20w nonsense!

 

[350camper]

Just curious if 5w-30 oil helps preventing engine failure?

 

[seven30]

Just curious if 5w-30 oil helps preventing engine failure?

In engines designed to run 0w20 switching to 5w30 would not likely not prevent a failure. Failure is a design or manufacturing deficiency. However the highest wear resistant oil I know of is a 5w30 and that should extend the life of an engine as far as wear goes.

 

[seven30]

That's a really good point. Since all these new engines are coming there is like this thought of , No, just use the recommended oil viscosity, because of the spec, and they design the engine this way, and many other opinions. Yes, when you are under warranty, bumper to bumper 3years 36 k miles , or powertrain warranty 5years 60k miles this apply, but what happen after that?

Some have said here that Stellantis/Jeep dont give any kind of recommendation because you are out of warranty, it does not matter, if you pass that limit without a problem, pretty much they are done with their job, their promise, so theres not a actual official recommendation of '' Above 75k used this oil viscosity, above 100 k used this''.

With my old Jeep wranglers (98 and 2002) with the 4.0, used to put all the way to 20w-50 High Milage haha, both ran like a champ, but that a very different beast.

While I was writing this, I thought is there and actual 0w-20 high mileage ?, and yes there actually are:

So what would be better for a 3.6 Pentastar with above 75k? go higher in viscosity to 5w-30 or use a 0w-20 viscosity, but with (I guess) additives that enhance and are better suited for high mileage engines ?

I run QS 5w30 in my 4.0 with 286K because that engine was designed for that weight. But weight does not correlate with wear resistance automatically. There are terrible 20w50 that have far less wear protection than some 0w20. The reason I will switch to 5w30 of the same brand is that it has somewhat better wear protection. That will not protect me from manufacturing defects though.

 

[Hootbro]

Just curious if 5w-30 oil helps preventing engine failure?

Types of failures I have seen reported really do not lend themselves to being oil related nor would use of a 5W-30 or higher grade oil would have saved them.

That being said, there is no detriment if one wants to use a 5W-30 here, but with all things considered, you really do not know without regular oil analysis testing and data.

 

[Saltymedic]

Rocker bearing failed. Better to have it replaced sooner than later, sometimes you can get lucky and it wont damage the cam or other components.
The last generation of 3.6l’s had this issue as well.
if you live in a warm climate I had better luck running 0w40 oil…. 0w20 ate two within the first 30k miles. Switched to a 0w40 and didn’t have another issue until around 130k miles in the JK…

Agreed, rocker bearing. You're still just within the warranty so you better jump on this getting repaired.

Edit: Sorry, old thread ?

 

[montechie]

This thread has been an interesting read, some great discussion. Unfortunately my education went from theoretical to applied.

Tacking on my experience to this Pentatick thread. My '22 JTR (Jan. '22 build) always been a little noisy, but could only hear it with the hood open, otherwise quiet enough. After about 32k miles I started hearing the ticking/tapping noticeably while coming home from a trip, comes from the passenger side of the engine. Super easy to hear in the ~2000RPM range, I can just shift down a gear while going 25mph and really hear it. All within the last 200ish miles. Regular oil changes (5K or less depending on travel schedule), no towing, stock tires, etc. Lots of dirt miles. I DO have an AEV snorkel and have a Tazer that I unmarried and removed before bringing it in.

In my case, I took it into a new (to me) service department and they ID'd it no problem, bad lash adjuster and would replace that and the cam together (will post specific parts replaced when service happens). Great! They also keep Hemi and Pentastar parts for this specifically stock piled apparently. BUT the Service Manager said they've been having problems getting warranty approval on anything with intake or programmer mods. They used to submit text only claims and would leave off if the customer had mods, now the manufacturer requires photos and they're denying anything with air intake mods. The SM also said something about me having an electronic override device (I presume the Tazer) also being a problem, although that's surprising it's detectable with having unmarried mine... I also used a BlueDriver scanner to run some diagnostics around the ticking, perhaps that's what flagged it for them.

I'm skeptical about the snorkel being an issue, Mopar used to offer dealer installed snorkels when I bought my truck, my air filter has never stayed so clean. This dealer seems to mainly deal with Ram and not many Jeeps, so I'm hoping it's the Ram side of FCA/Stellantis, not Jeep that's giving them issues. Dealer/SM said we should hear back within 5 days if it's denied/approved....

Anyone have an issue with warranty claims on your engine with a snorkel? The AEV doesn't modify the airbox itself, it attaches to the pickup between the box and hood. I chose AEV because of their tight Jeep relationship and heavy testing they perform on their mods. I'll update as I hear more.

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