3.6 Engine Tick

[Maximus Gladius]

All that does is work the phasers themselves back and forth to free them. Debris in the passages or galleries - or anything in the lash adjuster "nozzle" area is a manual clean thing but unless someone was messy with a repair or filter change or something else went wrong, there's no reason for debris to be there (other than during original assembly - rare in that case, too)

I always used very long stainless steel pipe cleaners in oil passages and galleries when cleaning engines I was rebuilding.

What’s your thought or many thoughts on just throwing in a “cleaner” like some diesel or tranny fluid in the crankcase to clean stuff up? There’s gotta be some old school hacks like that to get the arteries flowing proper.

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[ShadowsPapa]

What’s your thought or many thoughts on just throwing in a “cleaner” like some diesel or tranny fluid in the crankcase to clean stuff up? There’s gotta be some old school hacks like that to get the arteries flowing proper.

It's hard to imagine an oiling system in these getting gunked up like that.
Transmission fluid, diesel, that sort of thing - I've used in the past as "parts cleaner" but it still requires a lot of scrubbing, not going to do anything about varnishes.

I know it's been done in the past - but I can't say it actually does good other than "what people said". I'd be concerned about the lack of lube properties in the intake followers and certain other parts. To add enough to do much of any good, you are really seriously diluting down the amount of actual oil.

It's hard to imagine a newer engine that hasn't been apart having anything in the oiling system - and not be caught by the filter. Unless incorrect oil was used or it got hot, or they put some serious miles on the oil, it's just not easy to see it happening.

 

[Stan H]

It's hard to imagine an oiling system in these getting gunked up like that.
Transmission fluid, diesel, that sort of thing - I've used in the past as "parts cleaner" but it still requires a lot of scrubbing, not going to do anything about varnishes.

I know it's been done in the past - but I can't say it actually does good other than "what people said". I'd be concerned about the lack of lube properties in the intake followers and certain other parts. To add enough to do much of any good, you are really seriously diluting down the amount of actual oil.

It's hard to imagine a newer engine that hasn't been apart having anything in the oiling system - and not be caught by the filter. Unless incorrect oil was used or it got hot, or they put some serious miles on the oil, it's just not easy to see it happening.

One of the most recent hacks I have seen is a can of seafoam while its already warm and run it for a few miles real sharply . Then draining and adding the correct oil and filter.
Now I have ran quite a few cans of the seafoam fuel additive and it actually quiets down the aging injectors in my 121072 mile engine and seemingly makes it run smoother and I tend to pick up a .5 mpg increase for a tank full.

 

[Stan H]

I am in NO WAY telling anyone to try that I just had one guy tell me and also seen on You tube

 

[Maximus Gladius]

One of the most recent hacks I have seen is a can of seafoam while its already warm and run it for a few miles real sharply . Then draining and adding the correct oil and filter.
Now I have ran quite a few cans of the seafoam fuel additive and it actually quiets down the aging injectors in my 121072 mile engine and seemingly makes it run smoother and I tend to pick up a .5 mpg increase for a tank full.

I ran 1/2 can of Seafoam twice in the oil for 500 kms before draining. Threw the other 1/2 in the gas tank. Had no problem.

Some here may recall that a while back I had pulled apart my used oil filter, as I always do when I put a new one in, and I was very surprised to see ‘blackish’ stuff in the pleats that I’ve not seen before. Had the filter analyzed and lab said it was carbon but to also remember oil is a hydrocarbon. When the lab scraped it off the filter and dried it down to a powder, it wasn’t burnt or scorched carbon like you’d see on your piston heads, it was a light brown powder.

In the life of this second engine, I started using Quaker State for a while, then switched to Mobil 1 for the next while, then switched to Penzoil Ultra Platinum for the next while and it was here that the carbon showed up in the filter.

The lab had a look at the detergents in the 3 brands and saw that Quaker State had the lowest followed by Mobil 1, followed by Penzoil having the most detergents. It was the lab techs “opinion” that whatever “carbon” was being stuck on the internals was then being cleaned up by the Penzoil.

After running about 3 oil changes @5000 kms each (50% oil life), and seeing the carbon build up in the filters, I wanted to do “something” to help clean it out of the engine so I had used Seafoam twice in the oil.

The first time, I was at 4500 kms and dumped in 1/2 can and drive 500 kms and again saw a bunch of this carbon in the filter. I changed the oil and dumped another 1/2 can in and drove another 500 kms and did another oil change. (Pic attached is filter at 500 kms with Seafoam and the black bits is carbon. The other pic is filter at 5000 kms showing carbon)

I too worried that this carbon crap was plugging up oil galleys. I have since switched to Mobil Super Synthetic to see how it does.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

What’s a mystery to me is how much “carbon” I’ve been seeing in my filters. I don’t go over 5000 kms between oil changes.

 

[jstockton]

All that does is work the phasers themselves back and forth to free them. Debris in the passages or galleries - or anything in the lash adjuster "nozzle" area is a manual clean thing but unless someone was messy with a repair or filter change or something else went wrong, there's no reason for debris to be there (other than during original assembly - rare in that case, too)

I always used very long stainless steel pipe cleaners in oil passages and galleries when cleaning engines I was rebuilding.

The junk I found under one of the VVL solenoids seems like RTV from a previous repair at the dealership. It’s just speculation though. They were the only ones that opened it up.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The junk I found under one of the VVL solenoids seems like RTV from a previous repair at the dealership. It’s just speculation though. They were the only ones that opened it up.

Not much you can do about crud from prior repairs gone messy. All you can do is get it good and warm and change the oil and filter to see if some of it works through and out the pan.
Man-made issues are the toughest to solve.

 

[Mullins2282]

Chiming in on this one. Developed a light tick last week and caught misfires in cyl 3 during a live scan. Right intake cam got bit by both rockers. It's no joke that when the rockers go in the vvl they GO. They're also a fortune... $125ea... By some miracle i got a cam and bought rockers and lifters for both sides. Luckily compression is good and the engine is very clean otherwise. Yikes...

 

[starrskream]

Yes ->

(sadly, it covers mine so apparently they are aware of a potential issue with engines made June through the first week of October 2022)

ugh, My MDH is 92900 so yeah...thanks for posting it. I printed it off, have been suspecting a tick for a while. I guess the dealer can sort it out now.

 

[imallcrawl]

I got the tick on my JKU at 55k miles. Cost me over 3k to fix at the dealership because I am not skilled enough to do the repair myself. I am dreading the day when I get this on my JT

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I got the tick on my JKU at 55k miles. Cost me over 3k to fix at the dealership because I am not skilled enough to do the repair myself. I am dreading the day when I get this on my JT

The JK appears to have been resolved with different follower roller design.
The JL and JT with the PUG use a different design -
with luck (and care) you won't experience it..........

 

[imallcrawl]

The JK appears to have been resolved with different follower roller design.
The JL and JT with the PUG use a different design -
with luck (and care) you won't experience it..........

That is very good to know!! Should I only use recommended mopar oil or do you recommend something else?

 

[JTGuy]

The 3.6 is a very reliable engine. That's why there is 12,000 cams on backorder. The replacement part for the re call should be a 6.4 Hemi.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That is very good to know!! Should I only use recommended mopar oil or do you recommend something else?

I use the recommended oil - meaning if the dealer does it - MOPAR, or, otherwise, Pennzoil's best.
I'm also good and a fan of Mobil 1 oil


People may not realize it, but the API consists of automaker engineers, engine designers and engineers, oil company chemists and others. They collaborate - oil companies take the data and info from the automakers and come up with oil to meet their needs, and so on. It's not done blindly - they work together.

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