3.6 Pentastar coolant temp 222 degrees at idle

[ShadowsPapa]

Once again, notice I AM in the north, and the temp was 41 degrees outside.

And we circle right back to - you are fine. Don't sweat it.
Years ago GM came up with a nifty algorithm for something called an oil life monitor.
It's not just an odometer tracking the miles on that oil. A lot of data goes into it.
This device isn't just a counter like so many Jeep people who don't know any better believe.
It track much more. It tracks oil temperatures, time at given temperatures, and a list of other things. The modern version tracks engine loading (such as when towing or working it hard, the torque output) and other factors.
It doesn't just say "you've reach 10,000 miles, time to change the oil" (ask any 4xe owner how short the oil change intervals can get if that engine isn't run long enough, hot enough - it might tell you to change the oil after only 3,000 miles! And - it forces the engine to run even if you want all electric mode - to get the oil hot and keep it there for a while)

fan dose not come on until the temps hit 221 and only at about 15% fan speed
The fan will also come on at 75% fan speed when you hit 231

As designed, works fine on stock Jeeps or even most modified. 221 and 231 are proven non-issues. So, we're saying it's all ok.
It's not too hot.

Going back to the beginning - you are fine. No worries, temperatures are fine and normal for a normal Jeep.

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[willys 41]

What ever
I am done here

 

[BlackRuby23]

And we circle right back to - you are fine. Don't sweat it.

Yes, I am learning this. I was just responding to the post about being in the north.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yes, I am learning this. I was just responding to the post about being in the north.

35 degrees here right now, a couple of weeks ago, it was -15 at night and our high was something like minus 11 degrees (F, not C)
I'm looking forward to our highs in the upper 90s with 100% humidity LOL

 

[BearFootSam]

Golly, the only occasion I’ve ever seen a temp 220* was towing up a mountain pass, and even then only briefly. Dropped back to 190’s very soon after cresting and heading back down.

I hope you get it serviced before doing any damage. These engines run on the cool side from my experience, as they should. The cooling system is sized to cope with the worst case high temp, steep grade at max towing capacity. Normal operation while not towing or idling shouldn’t tax it at all.

 

[ecidiego]

My original post is about whether or not my brand new Jeep is operating as designed or if there is a problem. I'd like to keep it at that.

It's fine. Mine will do same. 220ish, 850 fan kicks on, drops to 209. Fan turns off. Temp rises to 220ish, fan back on.

Well within expected. People forget that at idle, fan off, it's worse than driving. There isn't 70MPH air crossing the radiator.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Golly, the only occasion I’ve ever seen a temp 220* was towing up a mountain pass, and even then only briefly. Dropped back to 190’s very soon after cresting and heading back down.

I hope you get it serviced before doing any damage. These engines run on the cool side from my experience, as they should. The cooling system is sized to cope with the worst case high temp, steep grade at max towing capacity. Normal operation while not towing or idling shouldn’t tax it at all.

222 won't do damage, as has been covered in these pages/posts.
Idling can build heat due to no air flow. It's resting only on the coolant flow through the radiator, no air flow sitting in traffic.
Mine will hit that routinely when I have the snow plow mounted and traveling over 20 mph - no air flow. It's been in the 220s when the temperatures outside were near 0.
I chatted with the dealership about it - no worries, it wasn't hot enough to do any damage.
His settles right down when driving it.
Once all warmed up after 15-20 minutes of driving, I can watch mine, on the highway, fluctuate from 192 to about 220 driving when temps outside are in the 30s.
His fan will kick in when needed. These swing a wide range of temperatures. If it was the old style of temp gauge, you'd see it go up and down, up and down, within that green range.
Both of my Overland has swung wide temperature ranges, never sticking at any one point.

please go back and read all of the other posts........... showing this is a non-issue as long as that's the worst that happens and it works fine under load or moving.

 

[Marmaduke]

Been following this thread. I’ve always paid more attention to oil temp, especially coming from forced induction. So I paid attention this morning… 43 degrees when I drove in. Good mix of city/hwy driving.

Neither coolant nor oil spent much time, even at idle in stop, over 200 degrees. At most it was low 200.

Once on the hwy it dropped to the 180s pretty quick with the airflow.

I have the towing package with the “extra cooling” for whatever that means in this rig and turned off auto start stop as it’s super annoying with the clutch work in stop and go traffic.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

It's fine. Mine will do same. 220ish, 850 fan kicks on, drops to 209. Fan turns off. Temp rises to 220ish, fan back on.

Well within expected.

Exactly!
You can tell when the fan kicks in or changes speed, as well as the operation of the thermostat and so on. I've watched these with interest since I bought my first one in 2019.
Man, reading these posts, people would absolutely FREAK OUT if they saw mine with the snow plow on it running 225 on a 25 degree day.
No sweat.

It's no bloody danged wonder FCA doesn't make the actual temperatures part of the permanent cluster display! The dealerships would be swamped with hand-wringing customers.
This is exactly why there's a "go/no-go" display in the cluster. It will tell you when it's too hot.
Maybe FCA needs to totally remove the actual coolant temperature gauge from these and go back to the way cars used to be - green, a wide swatch, is ok - red, not so ok.

 

[ecidiego]

whatever that means in this rig

All it means is 850w versus 600w fan and the larger alt to handle the current draw.

 

[Marmaduke]

All it means is 850w versus 600w fan and the larger alt to handle the current draw.

An 850 watt cooling fan (same size, but running harder)? Do these have engine oil coolers? Sorry for the quick hijack.

This runs cooler than my MY23 WRX did across the board, granted that was boosted and liked the run in the upper 2000rpm range. Took a minute to get used to the NA 6 and lower end torque in this and not needed to be at 2500rpm all the time.

 

[ecidiego]

An 850 watt cooling fan (same size, but running harder)? Do these have engine oil coolers? Sorry for the quick hijack.

This runs cooler than my MY23 WRX did across the board, granted that was boosted and liked the run in the upper 2000rpm range. Took a minute to get used to the NA 6 and lower end torque in this and not needed to be at 2500rpm all the time.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

An 850 watt cooling fan (same size, but running harder)? Do these have engine oil coolers? Sorry for the quick hijack.

The higher wattage fan has higher horsepower so can move more air (CFM, cubic feet per minute) than the smaller fan.

EDIT because he posted pics to show the difference in the blades -the higher HP motor (higher wattage = higher HP) can spin larger blades and move more air.

Interesting to note that the EPA requires car makers to show the location of every fan, inside and out, engine bay or not, and all air movement through a vehicle for evaporative emissions reports each year. A change in fan size of location means an amended evaporative emissions report to the EPA.
Now think about that in the grand scheme of things - why bother with a smaller fan? Hmmmmmm

 

[willys 41]

They also have a 940 watt fan to combat the over heating problems
That's what I have in mine

 

[Hootbro]

They also have a 940 watt fan to combat the over heating problems
That's what I have in mine

Have a part number for that by chance?

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