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37’s. I’m about to pull the trigger

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FreedomWV

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I’m close to Kingwood
Give me a bit for pics and I will post. My brother is in WV, Shepardstown area, and he is selling a pretty sick Wrangler if anyone looking for a “bought not built” jeep lol. He dumped like $125k into and is selling for 40 something. Has all the bells and whistles….
 

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How about the mopar 2inch if I were going more expensive? Do you think 2inches would be enough?
I’ve been running the Mopar 2” with Yokohama Geo 37’s for almost 2 years now. I highly recommend it. Never rubbed at full flex on any trial.
 

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Give me a bit for pics and I will post. My brother is in WV, Shepardstown area, and he is selling a pretty sick Wrangler if anyone looking for a “bought not built” jeep lol. He dumped like $125k into and is selling for 40 something. Has all the bells and whistles….
I drive to Martinsburg WV one day a week for my work which is right beside Shepherdstown.
 

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How about the mopar 2inch if I were going more expensive? Do you think 2inches would be enough?
the mopar lift is good, especially if you want to stay under warranty (assuming you have them do install but that would get a bit pricey). They have a new kit with bilstein shocks that have reservoirs.

I’d you’re not having shop do install, the aev 3” lift with heavy duty springs and custom bilstein shocks are $100 cheaper than mopar. Just fyi.
 

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37” BFG AT’s Metalcloak 3.5”, 1.5” wheel spacers, Mopar bead lock wheels

Jeep Gladiator 37’s. I’m about to pull the trigger IMG_7178
 

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I'm running the 2" Mopar lift with Falken Wildpeak 37x12.5x18 on OEM Overland wheels which are 7.5" wide on 1.75" wheel spacers. No issues
Discount Tire installed them without issue

Jeep Gladiator 37’s. I’m about to pull the trigger Installed 1
 

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So, I wanted to trade my Freedom edition in on the new Far Out diesel Rubicon. Figured out my truck isn’t worth a damn for trade in and I’m not willing to take that kind of loss.

Since I’m keeping this till the wheels fall off, I’m going to upgrade it the way I want it. I’m getting the BFG 37s, I already have a taser and 4.88 gears sitting in the garage and some side steps on the way. Other mods listed in my signature.

Give me your opinion on minimum lift I will need to run these stock wheels without rubbing or anything else you might want to let me know. I want to keep my lift price at $1000 or less if possible. I’ve read numerous posts about running on stock wheels and I’m going to stay with them. I do not do any serious off roading or rock crawling, occasional back roads and blue/green rated trails.

Currently have Terra flex 1.5 spacer front and 3/4 rear installed.
We run a 2.5 lift but aftermarket wheels. You don't have to buy the most expensive lift my Jku we use at my dealership has a cheaper lift on it since new and 160k miles had zero issue's it doesn't get used for rock crawling ir hard core off road but does get use for some medium trails and snow bashing. My son ran the same bfg on his 21 sport s with the same spacers you have with wheel spacers no issues
 

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I’ve been running the Mopar 2” with Yokohama Geo 37’s for almost 2 years now. I highly recommend it. Never rubbed at full flex on any trial.
We run a 2.5 lift but aftermarket wheels. You don't have to buy the most expensive lift my Jku we use at my dealership has a cheaper lift on it since new and 160k miles had zero issue's it doesn't get used for rock crawling ir hard core off road but does get use for some medium trails and snow bashing. My son ran the same bfg on his 21 sport s with the same spacers you have with wheel spacers no issues
Thank you for the info!
 

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Sorry for long post… On my 2020 Rubi, I’m running 37x12.50 Mickey Thompson AtzP3 D Load tires with Synergy 1.75” wheel spacers on stock wheels. Zero issues with my tire setup. I was running without spacers but was getting into my sway bar offroad at lock.
Rusty’s 2” advanced lift, Teraflex 1.5” spacer up front and .75” Daystar spacer out back. using Yeti adjustable trackbars. The Rusty’s front heim joint on the Rusty’s track bar failed after 33,000 miles. I got COVID Rusty’s Control arms and they are starting to “tear drop” in the steel sleeve bushing causing play — the new solid design eliminates this. Knowing what I know now, I’d avoid this type of bushing inner sleeve (see pics the new bushings are cheap but time consuming to replace on your own or mechanics want a fortune.
Running Rusty’s HD Aluminum steering it’s great. My build thread and YouTube have a ton of info. YMMV but My stock steering was shot - 3 of the 4 joints on draglink and tie Rod were flopping around at 33,000 miles. Not sure if it was the failed Trackbar heim that caused the steering issues or the steering caused the heim failure or it all happened concurrently. I have rock crawled, and hit blue/green trails at off road parks, etc. probably 20 times in the last 4 years while light 2 track, dirt roads, and fields/soft roading weekly to hunt, camp, do farm chores, etc.
sorry for such a long post. Hit me up if you have questions.
Good luck!

Jeep Gladiator 37’s. I’m about to pull the trigger IMG_7294


Jeep Gladiator 37’s. I’m about to pull the trigger IMG_6775


Jeep Gladiator 37’s. I’m about to pull the trigger IMG_9105


Jeep Gladiator 37’s. I’m about to pull the trigger IMG_9114
 

Discount Tire

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I'm running the 2" Mopar lift with Falken Wildpeak 37x12.5x18 on OEM Overland wheels which are 7.5" wide on 1.75" wheel spacers. No issues
Discount Tire installed them without issue

Installed 1.jpg
Great looking rig! Thank you for your patronage! Much appreciated!
 
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Sorry for long post… On my 2020 Rubi, I’m running 37x12.50 Mickey Thompson AtzP3 D Load tires with Synergy 1.75” wheel spacers on stock wheels. Zero issues with my tire setup. I was running without spacers but was getting into my sway bar offroad at lock.
Rusty’s 2” advanced lift, Teraflex 1.5” spacer up front and .75” Daystar spacer out back. using Yeti adjustable trackbars. The Rusty’s front heim joint on the Rusty’s track bar failed after 33,000 miles. I got COVID Rusty’s Control arms and they are starting to “tear drop” in the steel sleeve bushing causing play — the new solid design eliminates this. Knowing what I know now, I’d avoid this type of bushing inner sleeve (see pics the new bushings are cheap but time consuming to replace on your own or mechanics want a fortune.
Running Rusty’s HD Aluminum steering it’s great. My build thread and YouTube have a ton of info. YMMV but My stock steering was shot - 3 of the 4 joints on draglink and tie Rod were flopping around at 33,000 miles. Not sure if it was the failed Trackbar heim that caused the steering issues or the steering caused the heim failure or it all happened concurrently. I have rock crawled, and hit blue/green trails at off road parks, etc. probably 20 times in the last 4 years while light 2 track, dirt roads, and fields/soft roading weekly to hunt, camp, do farm chores, etc.
sorry for such a long post. Hit me up if you have questions.
Good luck!

IMG_7294.jpeg


IMG_6775.jpeg


IMG_9105.jpeg


IMG_9114.jpeg
Thank you for the info and advice!
 

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How about the mopar 2inch if I were going more expensive? Do you think 2inches would be enough?
I ran the Mopar 2 inch lift with KO2s and 4:88s for almost 4 years. But I have offset wheels. you would need wheel spacers for sure. I agree with TopDuck, 12.5 is too wide for the stock wheels.

I also agree with Blitzinger, the lfit is no place to cheap out. I recently moved to the Teraflex 3.5 lift with control arm brackets And Falcon adjustable shocks, huge improvement.
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