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37s no lift

mgenbox

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Before the 37s on the factory Falken MT 33s I towed my 27ft TT with ease, now have about 4"s of lift, rear airbags and 37s. We'll see how it tows the TT in few months.

We intend to buy a 3/4 ton later this year.

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What is ur hitch weight on the 27 footer?
Do u take the cap off to tow the rv?
Id like to have a cap but I’m prob over payload some with 21’ rv
Nice lookin machine btw
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Aquastream

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Thank you for the kind comments!

Tires are great so far, they have about 1500 miles on them, some snow conditions, mostly we weather though, they hold tight to the road. They're quieter than the factory Falken M/Ts. They're also very close to actual 37s. They measured out at 36" under the weight of the truck at 37psi.

Nothing bad to report yet. I saw another thread on here about them and guys posted that they're great in deep snow and mud. There's a few videos on YT about them too from actual users.
Nice yeah I’ve seen a lot of good reports about them as an all-rounder.
 

1996XJ

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Looks good! I have a newbie question did you find getting that much lift from a larger tire creating any problems with alignment or geometry? I always heard if you lift the vehicle more than a couple inches that's why you need all the adjustable components that come with suspension lifts. I'm only asking because I would regear mine and do 37s with no lift for now if I knew I wasn't going to run into issues with the suspension side of things. I understand it might rub if i am trying to offroad it like that.
 
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RubiNewbCB

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What is ur hitch weight on the 27 footer?
Do u take the cap off to tow the rv?
Id like to have a cap but I’m prob over payload some with 21’ rv
Nice lookin machine btw
The TT tongue weight is 560lb according to the tag on the inside of the trailer door. I use a Curt WDH with sway control and a RedArc trailer brake setup.

I towed with the cap on one time back last December when we retrieved that TT from the repair shop after they fixed the leaking Stargazer front window (4 months after we dropped it off) under warranty.

We towed it about 60 miles to the storage lot without issue. We never tow it with the water tanks full. We only load about 250lb worth of gear and clothes in the trailer for our trips.

Max CCC for the JTRD is 975, I weigh 225, wife 115, and 24yr old daughter only weighs 90lb. That cap is about 300lbs according to OVS.

I still need to scale everything, but the Gladiator pulls it well without issue. I also upgraded to the powerstop Rotors and pads for HD towing and braking performance. I will probably do the calipers next.
 
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RubiNewbCB

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Looks good! I have a newbie question did you find getting that much lift from a larger tire creating any problems with alignment or geometry? I always heard if you lift the vehicle more than a couple inches that's why you need all the adjustable components that come with suspension lifts. I'm only asking because I would regear mine and do 37s with no lift for now if I knew I wasn't going to run into issues with the suspension side of things. I understand it might rub if i am trying to offroad it like that.
37s no lift is doable on pavement only. No issues at all, truck drove fine on pavement. The moment it gets off camber, they'll rub minimally in the inside fenderwells towardsthe rear. At that point you could potentially trim some fenderwell. I didn't want to do that. And besides I already had most the pieces to my Frankenlift.

I added my lift a week later...

I've recently started to get the bumpsteer/death wobble at approx 40mph, so I went ahead and bought the MetalCloak Adjustable front track bar and their geobrackets. Which I will be installing this weekend. There's no other issues with it except at that speed. It drives straight as an arrow.

If you lift above 2.5" front and rear trackbars are a must to recenter the axles. I have the AEV SC springs 2.5"s with the 1" TereFlex spacer in front and 3/4" Daystar in the rear with airbags, plus the 37s. So, I also added the RockJock driveshaft spacer as well for the driveline angles. Plus the MetalCloak bumpstops kits and their Enduro springs.

I imagine the bumpsteer might be even worse if I didn't put the TereFlex Sport lower control arms in already. They're for 2.5 to 3" lift, that's why I broke down to get the MC geobrackets. Next up will be the sector brace, steering Stabilizer Relocation kit, Draglink and Tierods by MC, their Baller ball joints, and maybe a PSC steering assist kit.

I'm also looking at the MC alignment plates, so I can do my own alignment.

Baby steps... as time and money allows. Built not Bought!

Pro-Tip... upgrade your Trackbar bolts to Grade 8 Zinc plated/galvanized(gold) 9/16 Shoulder Bolts at 3" length, and nylock nuts, with washers. They're wider than factory and eliminate slack in the bushing sleeves. The factory bolts will wander and elongate the mounting holes. Napa sells them.
 

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1996XJ

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37s no lift is doable on pavement only. No issues at all, truck drove fine on pavement. The moment it gets off camber, they'll rub minimally in the inside fenderwells towardsthe rear. At that point you could potentially trim some fenderwell. I didn't want to do that. And besides I already had most the pieces to my Frankenlift.

I added my lift a week later...

I've recently started to get the bumpsteer/death wobble at approx 40mph, so I went ahead and bought the MetalCloak Adjustable front track bar and their geobrackets. Which I will be installing this weekend. There's no other issues with it except at that speed. It drives straight as an arrow.

If you lift above 2.5" front and rear trackbars are a must to recenter the axles. I have the AEV SC springs 2.5"s with the 1" TereFlex spacer in front and 3/4" Daystar in the rear with airbags, plus the 37s. So, I also added the RockJock driveshaft spacer as well for the driveline angles. Plus the MetalCloak bumpstops kits and their Enduro springs.

I imagine the bumpsteer might be even worse if I didn't put the TereFlex Sport lower control arms in already. They're for 2.5 to 3" lift, that's why I broke down to get the MC geobrackets. Next up will be the sector brace, steering Stabilizer Relocation kit, Draglink and Tierods by MC, their Baller ball joints, and maybe a PSC steering assist kit.

I'm also looking at the MC alignment plates, so I can do my own alignment.

Baby steps... as time and money allows. Built not Bought!

Pro-Tip... upgrade your Trackbar bolts to Grade 8 Zinc plated/galvanized(gold) 9/16 Shoulder Bolts at 3" length, and nylock nuts, with washers. They're wider than factory and eliminate slack in the bushing sleeves. The factory bolts will wander and elongate the mounting holes. Napa sells them.
Thanks for all the useful info! If i do the lift myself, i could save some serious money... I want to do baby steps but its like bigger tires mean new wheels, regear and lift at the same time. Big tires, wheels , regear, and real suspension lift all at once is some serious money. Im considering a spacer lift till i can buy a nice 2.5 or 3.5 lift but i think i will run into problems with no way to adjust anything.
 
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RubiNewbCB

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Thanks for all the useful info! If i do the lift myself, i could save some serious money... I want to do baby steps but its like bigger tires mean new wheels, regear and lift at the same time. Big tires, wheels , regear, and real suspension lift all at once is some serious money. Im considering a spacer lift till i can buy a nice 2.5 or 3.5 lift but i think i will run into problems with no way to adjust anything.
The TereFlex modular 1.5" kit with Daystar rear spacer is real budget friendly. The AEV 2" kit is too bad either. Those would be the best bang for your buck approach. Plenty of those kits wind up on the marketplace.

I bought and collected parts for two years, while I was waiting for the factory M/Ts to wear out. Once they were close enough to fail the state safety inspection within a few thousand miles, I seized the moment, wife couldn't say no. 😈
 

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Pro-Tip... upgrade your Trackbar bolts to Grade 8 Zinc plated/galvanized(gold) 9/16 Shoulder Bolts at 3" length, and nylock nuts, with washers. They're wider than factory and eliminate slack in the bushing sleeves. The factory bolts will wander and elongate the mounting holes. Napa sells them.
This great info. What does this do for your steering in reality? Or is it just for long term care?
 

Aquastream

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The TereFlex modular 1.5" kit with Daystar rear spacer is real budget friendly. The AEV 2" kit is too bad either. Those would be the best bang for your buck approach. Plenty of those kits wind up on the marketplace.

I bought and collected parts for two years, while I was waiting for the factory M/Ts to wear out. Once they were close enough to fail the state safety inspection within a few thousand miles, I seized the moment, wife couldn't say no. 😈
And you even chose a budget 37” tire, looking out for her ..
 
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RubiNewbCB

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This great info. What does this do for your steering in reality? Or is it just for long term care?
As the bushings in the factory trackbars wear, the smaller factory bolt will wander in the hole. Eventually you may get the Death Wobble. The 9/16th bolt fits in their nice and snug and doesn't allow for excess movement.

Not my video...



This one will show you the stretched holes.

 

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1996XJ

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The TereFlex modular 1.5" kit with Daystar rear spacer is real budget friendly. The AEV 2" kit is too bad either. Those would be the best bang for your buck approach. Plenty of those kits wind up on the marketplace.

I bought and collected parts for two years, while I was waiting for the factory M/Ts to wear out. Once they were close enough to fail the state safety inspection within a few thousand miles, I seized the moment, wife couldn't say no. 😈
Lol thats the other problem the wife!
 

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As the bushings in the factory trackbars wear, the smaller factory bolt will wander in the hole. Eventually you may get the Death Wobble. The 9/16th bolt fits in their nice and snug and doesn't allow for excess movement.

Not my video...



This one will show you the stretched holes.

Gotcha. Will this tighten up the steering in theory?
 
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RubiNewbCB

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And you even chose a budget 37” tire, looking out for her ..
With this kind of production they could probably charge more for them...

 
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RubiNewbCB

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Gotcha. Will this tighten up the steering in theory?
I can't say if it would tighten it up, but it definitely won't hurt to do it as an added precaution. Especially, if you get them locked in at The proper torque specs.
 

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With this kind of production they could probably charge more for them...

Yeah I’m waiting for my local shop to get their quarterly re stock and I’m hoping that the prices haven’t be jacked up. Only one thing that bothers me a bit about them is they only make them on load range E
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