A case and use for a simple 2"-2.5" lift?

[Eternity]

Wondering about the really inexpensive 2.5" lift kits that simply raise the suspension....no new shocks or springs....around $100.

Is there a case where this kind of lift is acceptable and all that is really needed?

Will this change the street handling much (other than increase slightly tip-over rate...probably not by much)?

I realize that lifting a little and not changing everything will not improve everything, but it would give a little extra clearance. With such a long wheel base, I would think that 2-2.5" would just give a little better look and better use for a little money. For only $100, if it really doesn't help, more can easily be spent on a lot more.

FYI...I'm not planning on taking this rock crawling or serious off-road. This is why I don't see the full value of spending hundreds more for parts that may not help, but I don't know enough about the lift options or pros/cons for the more casual off-roader.

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[Jaydebe]

Rock Krawler 1.5" Spacer Budget kit...
Northridge4x4 linky

 

[CallMeJoe]

I am running the Iron Rock 2" spacer lift on my jtr. It's a bare-bones lift with just spring spacers and shock extensions. I'll be adding front lower control arms at some point, but for my use, it's a perfectly functional way to get a bit of extra ground clearance. I understand the many advantages of a full kit with increased travel, etc, but my mule primarily does duty crawling about in the woods and forest service roads so extreme articulation is not high on my list of priorities. I also pull a trailer (constantly!) so giant, cartoon tires are not a good choice.
All said, a good spacer lift with a couple of additional components (LCA's, maybe track bars) is really all most folks require. If a bag of money drops from the sky, I'll get the Mopar 2" kit. Until then, I'm very happy with what I have..

 

[u-joint]

FYI...I'm not planning on taking this rock crawling or serious off-road. This is why I don't see the full value of spending hundreds more for parts that may not help, but I don't know enough about the lift options or pros/cons for the more casual off-roader.

Ah, but here’s the rub… the more expensive kits are more about on-road performance than off-road performance.

Any 2” lift will (generally) lift your JT 2”, and yield the same improvement in clearance. Off-road, that’s mostly what you’re concerned with when considering a lift. Generally.

There are a few components that cheaper lifts skip that are essential off road (e.g. extended brake lines vs drop brackets, bump stop, etc), but… those are cheap, relatively speaking.

No, the largest difference cost-wise between cheap and expensive lifts are things like control arms. Those will improve your highway driving by allowing you to properly align your front-end.

Remember, when you lift you’re taking your entire suspension out of alignment, and the highway/city driving will suffer. Adjustable control arms are essential for restoring the factory handling, and those are not found in the cheapest lifts.

 

[Eternity]

Thanks for the input. I did read somewhere that anything under 3" in a lift on the Gladiator did not require any other significant modifications...like brake lines. I was looking at this from Rough Country as an example:

https://www.extremeterrain.com/rough-country-jeep-gladiator-250-inch-suspension-lift-kit-63400.html

Bump stops, spring lift, sway bar links...It is interesting that you say that the alignment goes out by just lifting the frame. I will have to look into that. I suppose if you lifted it and then needed to get a new alignment as well, that is not a deal-breaker and would probably be required then on any lift. Thanks for pointing that out.

 

[Moe_Fugga]

Thanks for the input. I did read somewhere that anything under 3" in a lift on the Gladiator did not require any other significant modifications...like brake lines. I was looking at this from Rough Country as an example:

https://www.extremeterrain.com/rough-country-jeep-gladiator-250-inch-suspension-lift-kit-63400.html

Bump stops, spring lift, sway bar links...It is interesting that you say that the alignment goes out by just lifting the frame. I will have to look into that. I suppose if you lifted it and then needed to get a new alignment as well, that is not a deal-breaker and would probably be required then on any lift. Thanks for pointing that out.

Out of alignment means shifting the axle with the lift. This affects the handling characteristics of the vehicle.

You won’t need drive shafts, brake lines, all 8 control arms, etc for a small lift. However, it is generally recommended (not required) that you put on adjustable front track bar and front lower control arms with a lift. It will do the most getting that axle back in alignment.

FYI, the kit you posted up is just a leveling kit. Not a front and rear lift.

Here is the knowledge you seek:
https://www.extremeterrain.com/wrangler-jeep-choosing-the-right-lift-kit.html

 

[TJDave]

Thanks for the input. I did read somewhere that anything under 3" in a lift on the Gladiator did not require any other significant modifications...like brake lines. I was looking at this from Rough Country as an example:

https://www.extremeterrain.com/rough-country-jeep-gladiator-250-inch-suspension-lift-kit-63400.html

Bump stops, spring lift, sway bar links...It is interesting that you say that the alignment goes out by just lifting the frame. I will have to look into that. I suppose if you lifted it and then needed to get a new alignment as well, that is not a deal-breaker and would probably be required then on any lift. Thanks for pointing that out.

I'm running the RC spacer lift you linked above. I added Mopar lift lower control arms and rear Daystar. 75" spacers. Works for me. Less than $300 for everything. Still drives like stock on road and works for the mild trails I now run. I tow our boat with it, and flat tow it behind the motorhome.
I've owned coil srung Jeeps since they came out. As far as alignment, unless you have adjustable control arms and track bars, there is nothing to align except setting toe in/out. Easily done yourself.

 

[Eternity]

Out of alignment means shifting the axle with the lift. This affects the handling characteristics of the vehicle.

You won’t need drive shafts, brake lines, all 8 control arms, etc for a small lift. However, it is generally recommended (not required) that you put on adjustable front track bar and front lower control arms with a lift. It will do the most getting that axle back in alignment.

FYI, the kit you posted up is just a leveling kit. Not a front and rear lift.

Here is the knowledge you seek:
https://www.extremeterrain.com/wrangler-jeep-choosing-the-right-lift-kit.html

Thanks. It may be that I just need a "leveling kit". Too bad they don't actually call it that and instead make it sound like a complete "lift kit" when it is only lifting the front. With mine coming with the 400 extra pound ecoDiesel and installing a bumper with winch, it could be the right kit and gives me what I need.

With the link you provided they do state:
"A leveling kit is exactly as it sounds; it levels the natural rake the factory gives Wranglers. Rather than having the front sit lower than the rear, the leveling kit will ensure everything sits, well, level. A common upgrade for Jeepers looking to balance things out after adding a heavier steel bumper and winch. Leveling kits don’t exceed more than an inch or two in lift height in most cases. Some coil spacer kits will even have 1-inch of lift in the front and 2-inches in the rear to both achieve lift and level."

With my added weight of engine and bumper/winch, perhaps I'm still on the right track and hopefully won't require a lot extra. There seem to be a lot of good reviews and people happy with this "leveling lift" to the front.

 

[Eternity]

Thanks, TJDave, that is the kind of testimonial experience that is very helpful. I'll look up those other parts (unless you have links easily shareable). Rather than trying to mix and match parts myself, I would prefer to get the pieces that others have already gotten and can attest will work without going bonkers on price and parts.

 

[TJDave]

All Mopar Parts for the control arms..
Amazon for the rear 3/4" spacers.

https://www.allmoparparts.com/sku/68322798aa.html

 

[red/green hawk]

FWIW, I've been researching "cheaper" lift options for awhile now. After due dilligence I'm sold on the Mopar 2" and purchasing an adjustable track bar which is more than I want to spend but it's worth it in the long-run. I want to keep my JT for quite some time.

I'm all for getting budget mods like a cheaper bumper or something like that but when it comes to something that effects the whole geometry of the truck and the way it handles I think you have spend to get what you need to put things back in the proper alignment. I drive my kids around and want the safest ride I can get. We didn't buy Jeeps to have a cheap hobby.

And let me be honest here, the Mopar lift is something I want, not something I need. My JT is more than capable on 33 MTs and 1.5" leveling kit. I do the type of wheeling the OP described and I've never had any problem outside of getting stuck in a snowbank or 2, which a 2" lift and 35s wouldn't have helped.

 

[CerOf]

FWIW, I've been researching "cheaper" lift options for awhile now. After due dilligence I'm sold on the Mopar 2" and purchasing an adjustable track bar which is more than I want to spend but it's worth it in the long-run. I want to keep my JT for quite some time.

I'm all for getting budget mods like a cheaper bumper or something like that but when it comes to something that effects the whole geometry of the truck and the way it handles I think you have spend to get what you need to put things back in the proper alignment. I drive my kids around and want the safest ride I can get. We didn't buy Jeeps to have a cheap hobby.

And let me be honest here, the Mopar lift is something I want, not something I need. My JT is more than capable on 33 MTs and 1.5" leveling kit. I do the type of wheeling the OP described and I've never had any problem outside of getting stuck in a snowbank or 2, which a 2" lift and 35s wouldn't have helped.

Start with the mopar lift without the adjustable track bar. You might not need it. I didn’t need it.
If you end up wanting/needing it, it’s super easy to add. Two bolts and doesn’t require disassembling anything else.
Save yourself ~$200.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

I'm running the Readylift SSt 2.5" lift kit combined with Rubicon take off shocks and front springs on my Max Tow. I added Poison spider geo brackets to the control arms and mine drives and rides amazing. If I wasn't on 37" Goodyear MTRs it would ride better than it did stock. I had a shop install the spacer lift because they only charged me $801 out the door and that included the lift kit and the Alignment and i didn't have the time to install it at the time. I did the Rubicon take off stuff myself and the Geo brackets. If I would of installed everything I would of been under $800 for all. You ain't got to spend a ton of money to have a great ride. Now if plan on banging on a ton of rocks out in the desert then spend the money on a really expensive lift. But if it's a daily that's going to see occasionally light trail use then spacers lifts are great and they allow you to retain pretty close to stock ride.

 

[red/green hawk]

Start with the mopar lift without the adjustable track bar. You might not need it. I didn’t need it.
If you end up wanting/needing it, it’s super easy to add. Two bolts and doesn’t require disassembling anything else.
Save yourself ~$200.

I'm planning on using the 1" puck from my Teraflex leveling kit on the front so I think I'm gonna need it.

 

[CerOf]

I'm planning on using the 1" puck from my Teraflex leveling kit on the front so I think I'm gonna need it.

Ahh, probably. I only have a 1/2” spacer up front

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