Advice for welding needed

[ShadowsPapa]

Also. Check the points at where the wire goes through the rollers inside. Minimum pressure is required. I've always set mine to....when you pull the trigger and then the wire over it should stop and the rollers should keep spinning. To tight it will sputter and make a mess. When doing sheet metal really thin stuff. Trigger let go trigger let go....it should minimize the burn through. I'm left handed as well. Brace one hand against work and gun. Keeps it steadier.

AHA - this is a GREAT DAY already. I have learned something - actually more than something. At least one thing. I think I have the rollers set tight as if the wire gets jammed up at the end of the gun the wire keeps feeding and you get a tangled mess. I've had that happen to me twice.
Next chance I get I'm going to try these things.
I am going to bookmark this thread and there's good stuff here. There's a lot of stuff I do and do ok at, but I was taught to know what you don't know - and I know I don't know enough about welding with MIG. I guess even a professional grade tool doesn't make you so LOL

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[ShadowsPapa]

On automotive sheet metal, it's a series of tacks, not a stringer. The base metal won't handle the heat. Hit the trigger, when you see the puddle, let go of trigger. Move a couple of inches away and repeat.

I need to post pictures of the job a fellow did on quarter panel patch panels on my 70 when I had it. You can buy exact fitting panels to patch the lower quarter panels on Javelin and AMX. Mine were just starting to bubble a bit behind the wheels. I bought the patch panels. They held them up to the car and marked a line to cut - a bit below the top of the patch panel. Once the piece was removed from the car, they held the panel up again and made another line - exactly even with the top of the panel. No gap, no overlap. They used a die cutter to trim a perfect straight line o the quarter panel so when the patch was held in place it was a perfect fit edge to edge.
Then he had pieces that held the patch in place. He did this for both sides at once.
He'd tack a spot, then move a few inches and tack another spot and so on occasionally moving to the other side.
Once he had a tack every inch on both sides he'd tack in the middle between those until finally he was just filling the tiny gaps where there was no tack. When he was done he used a small grinder and smoothed down the welds. It was so perfect it was smoothed over with "Icing" on the outside and high build primer. No bondo, no real filler.
On the inside it was so perfect. I sanded, primed and used a special order paint to touch up the inside of the trunk. I didn't use any filler of any sort on the inside. No one could tell there had been any patching his work with that welder was so perfect and precise.

I've always had the ability to make that sort of repair as my highest goal. I will never get there but I'd like to keep trying.

 

[Free2roam]

AHA - this is a GREAT DAY already. I have learned something - actually more than something. At least one thing. I think I have the rollers set tight as if the wire gets jammed up at the end of the gun the wire keeps feeding and you get a tangled mess. I've had that happen to me twice.
Next chance I get I'm going to try these things.
I am going to bookmark this thread and there's good stuff here. There's a lot of stuff I do and do ok at, but I was taught to know what you don't know - and I know I don't know enough about welding with MIG. I guess even a professional grade tool doesn't make you so LOL

So true. A guy I used to work with bout a race car. Sucked at driving it. So he bought a better engine. Spent 5k on the motor. I inherently had to break him the bad news that spending more money doesn't make him a better driver. I explained. If I suck at golf...and I was a pretty decent golfer at one time...if I buy a 5k driver it doesn't make a better golfer. Gotta learn to crawl before you walk I told him. Guess that applies to life in general. We will get you dialed in.

 

[Kindafearless]

Some good advice here so I won’t repeat.

Figured I’d just share some caution:

1.) Welding is addictive.
2.) Welding can cause sunburn, don’t use short sleeves. I feel like TIG does this more than MIG though.
3.) Carhartt sells some really affordable and comfortable shirts that are fire resistant.
4.) Welding is addictive.
5.) Don’t forget to buy a good helmet, totally worth it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Bought a nice helmet when I got the welder - self-darkening and gave my old 1980s helmet away.
Already have a nice leather welding apron.
Have long leather gloves as well. Had those with the Forney stick welder.
Oh, and don't wear cheap sneakers LOL.

 

[Free2roam]

Some good advice here so I won’t repeat.

Figured I’d just share some caution:

1.) Welding is addictive.
2.) Welding can cause sunburn, don’t use short sleeves. I feel like TIG does this more than MIG though.
3.) Carhartt sells some really affordable and comfortable shirts that are fire resistant.
4.) Welding is addictive.
5.) Don’t forget to buy a good helmet, totally worth it.

It is addictive! Building stuff is too. Especially when you design it and build it yourself! You weld?

 

[kevman65]

Some good advice here so I won’t repeat.

Figured I’d just share some caution:

1.) Welding is addictive.
2.) Welding can cause sunburn, don’t use short sleeves. I feel like TIG does this more than MIG though.
3.) Carhartt sells some really affordable and comfortable shirts that are fire resistant.
4.) Welding is addictive.
5.) Don’t forget to buy a good helmet, totally worth it.

When you've done it 30 some odd years (DAMN I'm old) the addiction wears off.

TIG is more intense than MIG, so yes the radiation is greater. You can get the same affect from SMAW if you consistently long arc.

I would recommend wearing clear safety glasses under the hood. You can get flashed from radiation bouncing off ceiling or walls, then bouncing off the lens on the inside of the hood.

 

[Munkey Boy]

Been welding since I was 7, hit 50 this year. Done architectural welding, structural beef, high steel (non-union, had to flee several sites), all the way down/up to delicate bronze art castings. Never been certified but I had an inspector in the Bay Area take pictures of my work to, as he said, "Show these other hacks how it SHOULD look." Welded just about every type of alloy out there and used every process AND I used to teach it. I will attest to the ultimate truth I discovered welding cast iron (the worst with a stick) as my first foray at age 7 that @Kindafearless warns about: IT IS ADDICTIVE. Very, very addictive.

MIG with a shielding gas is by far the easiest. Miller is the best, Lincoln is the best of the rest, Hobart is rather impressive for the price, but as far as Harbor Freight goes, they are the only welders I have melted on MULTIPLE occasions. Don't waste your time and money there.

When you pick one up, the best advise I'll pass on is to use your ears more than your eyes. LISTEN to the weld. Adjust the speed and heat so that it "sings". Spatter makes for a shitty weld, and it usually hurts with a hotty finding its way into a shoe. Or an ear, had that happen one time. Sheet metal is one of the toughest things to weld, body work is an art. The thinner the metal, the easier it is to disappear in front of you (next to aluminum, it doesn't change color so you can't tell if it's too hot then poof.) The best thing to do is play around with it, have fun! Think of it like archery, yeah you can hit the bullseye but can you keep hitting it? It truly is a Zen thing, paint with the puddle (of metal.)

AND BREATHE. Seriously, I have had to hammer that in most of all to students as they hold their breath when the juice flows. Relax. You're doing alchemy! That's nearly god-like! Relish and respect the power. Sure it can kill ya, but so can water if you're under it long enough.

AAAAAAND get a good hood! With at least a 10 lens. Personally I use a 12 all the time as my eyes are more accustomed to darkness, TIG for decades does leave a permanent mark. Wear leathers if possible and gloves on BOTH hands. I went a very long time not wearing a glove on my welding hand for more control. Don't!

Cheers and have fun!

 

[Munkey Boy]

When you've done it 30 some odd years (DAMN I'm old) the addiction wears off.

TIG is more intense than MIG, so yes the radiation is greater. You can get the same affect from SMAW if you consistently long arc.

I would recommend wearing clear safety glasses under the hood. You can get flashed from radiation bouncing off ceiling or walls, then bouncing off the lens on the inside of the hood.

Been flashed by the reflection off a wall more than anything. Yeah, just turn your head. NOPE. Zap off the walls and suddenly there are these pretty purple spots floating about. Along with a matching headache and a delightful burning sensation in the back of your eyeballs.

 

[Free2roam]

Been flashed by the reflection off a wall more than anything. Yeah, just turn your head. NOPE. Zap off the walls and suddenly there are these pretty purple spots floating about. Along with a matching headache and a delightful burning sensation in the back of your eyeballs.

In 30 + years I've never had flash burn. I've always worn safety glasses. According to my optometrist polycarbonate lenses block 99%of UV rays. I believe him. I used to have a raccoon mask going on when I would tack a lot of parts together. Wear them under your hood it can't hurt.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I wear prescription glasses - otherwise I'd not see to pick up the hood

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Same area after I primed and then touched up the trunk paint (NOT RATTLE CAN)

Patch in place -

 

[Munkey Boy]

In 30 + years I've never had flash burn. I've always worn safety glasses. According to my optometrist polycarbonate lenses block 99%of UV rays. I believe him. I used to have a raccoon mask going on when I would tack a lot of parts together. Wear them under your hood it can't hurt.

Already there, my friend. Can't see without them. And the poly makes for better impact protection doing other metal fun stuff. Had a seven inch cut-off disk detonate in a bind, chunk glanced off my glasses and hit me across the side of my nose. Six stitches later, I could still see even though the glasses were trashed. And all that happened under a full face shield as well. Ricocheted off the plate I was cutting the gates off of. Can't agree more, wear protection. And lots of it.

 

[Anthony G.]

If you need to weld stainless steel, mild steel, or aluminum consistently, you need to have a welder who will always perform. You’ll get all of that and a whole lot more when using the Lotos Technology https://bestmigwelders.org/lotos/mig175-review/ MIG175 welder. It would help if you also had a welder that would give you a reasonable flow rate, a quick setup, and a solid torch. This welder comes with the spool gun and mask, along with an argon regulator and the consumables you’ll need to get started right away.

 

[DAVECS1]

It is like most things, it is all about setup and tools. Hobart makes a nice 110 model for a good price and the Eastwood units are very solid for the money. The HF welders will just frustrate you as they cannot hold a consistent arc.

I always use gas 75% argon 25% CO2. Get decent mild steel wire. Not all weld wire is good. Some is wrapped badly and will feed horrible. Some just has bad metalurgy and will do weird things especially if you do not keep a good gas shield on it. Good spools from Farm and Fleet or Home depot are very forgiving. Surface prep is vital. This is not stick welding. Clean edges, 1/8 or less gaps. I always have a set up piece of metal. I try a number of welder setting before getting into my work piece. I look for a setting that allows my burn to be almost level with the surface. For most that is probably to hot. If you are mindful of your gas shield there is nothing say you cannot start and stop as many times as you like. Alot of guys wanna pull the trigger and lay toothpaste, but the thinner stuff won't take that heat well. I weld until the base metal starts to glow orange then back off and cover it with gas until the brightness fades and I get back at it. When I am welding structural stuff, clean with bevals and the right settings pull the trigger and let it eat.

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