AHHHHH!!!!WTF? Aux switch help!

[ShadowsPapa]

On a side note, there were 2 connections on that bolt, 1 of them won't reach that front bolt and I may have enough thread split them and dob1 on the front and 1 on the back. GREAT observation on seeing someone took that bolt off before. I didn't notice that and that would explain it that front bolt along with all other 10mm bolts came off with no effort. Again I didn't put hardly any effort into taking the broken one off, just twisted right in half. Must have been dealer? I got it new.

Just a theory - perhaps the prior person broke it, but that nut is deep enough they put it back on and it LOOKED intact, but wasn't. I've seen that in the past where a prior person broke a fastener after the nut came part way off. They put the nut back on what threads were there making it look like it was fine - maybe they were hoping the next person thought they broke it themselves.

Whatever the case - carry on, carry forward........

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[Fishee]

Well this was my ground solution. Hardware store had some metric threaded couple that I put on whatever threads were exposed and bought an m6 bolt. May work. Wasn't a whole lot of thread to grab but seems secure.

Aux switches still don't work though lol

Thank you for all the suggestions, glad my wife doesn't keep a swear jar around ?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That'll work and doesn't look bad, either.

 

[ecidiego]

Aux switches still don't work though lol

What do you have wrong? How long ago did you program them?

 

[Fishee]

What do you have wrong? How long ago did you program them?

I activated with my tazer and they show up in the menu. The little lights don't light when I push them. So must not have any power. I think I mangled that orange wire depinning it

 

[ecidiego]

I activated with my tazer and they show up in the menu. The little lights don't light when I push them. So must not have any power. I think I mangled that orange wire depinning it

I think something has to be connected to them. A circuit has to complete.

Turn one on, and measure at the Aux wire for 12vdc.

How did you depin? You need to put the depinner in, push the wire IN so it unlocks, THEN pull it out.

 

[Fishee]

I've seen install videos and after they taze them they push all the buttons with nothing hooked to them and the lights turn on

 

[ecidiego]

I've seen install videos and after they taze them they push all the buttons with nothing hooked to them and the lights turn on

A lot of people screwup the other connector, where you join the two orange wires. Check that one.

 

[ecidiego]

OH - also check the harness fuse that's just after the box on the driver side engine compartment. A lot of guys blow that up on install.

 

[ecidiego]

I've spent 3 hours trying to depin the orange wire. Depinning set. 50 videos. No luck. Insane. No pic or video has ever been posted about wtf you actually do with the depinning tools or small screwdriver. They just gloss over it...boom...click! Depinned. Probably going to finish the install except for the orange wire part and have the dealer do it. Can't 'practice' on my own truck.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I've noticed with a few of the connector designs you end up with that release tool actually forcing the connector back into the shell and preventing the tab from being depressed. In some cases you really have to push the wire into the shell while pushing the tool in and then you sort of hear a click and the wire just comes loose.
A friend who was a professor of computer science in an Iowa university used to say the neat thing about standards in computers is there are so many to choose from. I think that applies to wire connectors more than any other product. The crimpers, release tools, and now I've found that the so-called standard connectors used in cars in certain decades were slightly "redesigned" by GM, Plymouth and others so you THINK you are getting a certain Packard connector only to find it won't work in the shell the same sort of connector came out of because one is MOPAR style and the other is GM style but they are the same name and number. Ugh.

 

[mtudb24]

I've noticed with a few of the connector designs you end up with that release tool actually forcing the connector back into the shell and preventing the tab from being depressed. In some cases you really have to push the wire into the shell while pushing the tool in and then you sort of hear a click and the wire just comes loose.
A friend who was a professor of computer science in an Iowa university used to say the neat thing about standards in computers is there are so many to choose from. I think that applies to wire connectors more than any other product. The crimpers, release tools, and now I've found that the so-called standard connectors used in cars in certain decades were slightly "redesigned" by GM, Plymouth and others so you THINK you are getting a certain Packard connector only to find it won't work in the shell the same sort of connector came out of because one is MOPAR style and the other is GM style but they are the same name and number. Ugh.

Hey now. Keep my company out of it. I'm a wiring engineer / manager for Packard, um I'm mean Delphi, oh I really mean Aptiv. How many names have we had over the past 50 years?? HAHHAHHAHH

Give me a weather pack or Metri pack or GT connector instead of this bullshit Tyco, Deutsch, Molex, or Yazaki connectors, and its easy peasy to de-pin connectors all day long.

Being serious though it helps having the right pick tools. Makes the job so much easier

Also, being a wiring guy, the body shop always broke these studs in General Assembly. While this link is something generic, they always had a "Quickie Stud" that was used in repair. It was fastened to the body using a 2 part epoxy and they would either attach grounds to the stud (removed paint) or if the stud was used to mount a harness packaging clip to attach a clip over it to route a wiring harness, this might be a option for you

https://www.electricalhub.com/click...BC8pWgm5aQ5lmoO-pNCCaJGjUJQAjIyBoCCEAQAvD_BwE

 

[ecidiego]

@Fishee any tips on getting that orange wire out? 4 hours now. Not getting violent so as not to damage it. No amount of finesse or any of the 32 depinning tools I have do a thing. I can't understand the procedure.

I did manage to get the Aux harness and the power wire for the front cam CVPM through the nipple!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Hey now. Keep my company out of it. I'm a wiring engineer / manager for Packard, um I'm mean Delphi, oh I really mean Aptiv. How many names have we had over the past 50 years?? HAHHAHHAHH

LOL - man, I could have used your brain a month ago........
I found it funny reading some of the MOPAR forums where guys were trying to do restoration, bought some parts, maybe wiring harnesses and connectors and found that the Plymouth version was a bit different. I've run into that, too - swapping shells around to reconfigure the switch connection for the Prestolite wiper motor harness only to find - when I take the connectors out of this shell, it won't go back into this other shell and yet they are supposed to be the same connectors........

I'm still unable to match these loops, for ground connections over 1/4" studs.......... and the shells for these fan connectors (with no latch)
I just did some sample restorations for a shop in MI and they were happy enough they are going to be sending me more work so I need to find some other connectors.

 

[mtudb24]

LOL - man, I could have used your brain a month ago........
I found it funny reading some of the MOPAR forums where guys were trying to do restoration, bought some parts, maybe wiring harnesses and connectors and found that the Plymouth version was a bit different. I've run into that, too - swapping shells around to reconfigure the switch connection for the Prestolite wiper motor harness only to find - when I take the connectors out of this shell, it won't go back into this other shell and yet they are supposed to be the same connectors........

I'm still unable to match these loops, for ground connections over 1/4" studs.......... and the shells for these fan connectors (with no latch)
I just did some sample restorations for a shop in MI and they were happy enough they are going to be sending me more work so I need to find some other connectors.

Shadow, you ever need anything wiring related, you send me a message. If I don't have here in SE Michigan, I'll find one of my plants either in our technical center in Ohio or my production plants in MX.
T

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