Stock? Mine are long gone, but the pictures from mopar show a single rate.
The ones I have are silver, have the plastic isolators, and are dual rate. I'm going to guess from memory thst they came from a 2020 truck?Stock? Mine are long gone, but the pictures from mopar show a single rate.
I think those are the front coils. Rears are dual rated and you can see it pretty clearly in the pics. Mojave X rear coil part number: 68607529AAStock? Mine are long gone, but the pictures from mopar show a single rate.
I know you're right on all counts... but man, I just am not prepared to throw down for the full suspension overhaul right now. It's just a lot of coin!
Nothing is wring with a Frankenlift . Just because spings are from one manufacturer and control arms from another and draglink from another if they are are properly fit and installed correctly then its fine.
Hey Chris, thanks for chiming in here. As you can see, I'm looking for the holy grail (which doesn't exist). After chatting with you on your thread, I was on the verge of going with the Clayton 1.5"s, but I wanted to send one last appeal out to the forum at large, if for nothing else than to cross-check your insights and also ask about the Dobinsons and Metalcloak options.You had commented recently on my thread about stock heightish with heavy weights using Clayton 1.5” springs and falcon 3.3 shocks. Mines a rubicon, not a Mojave but if I understand right the rears are the same height, the Mojave just sits 1” higher in the front…I do have a 1” spacer in the front of mine and similar weight to you so things should be close to being comparable. The 1.5” Clayton springs have gotten me back up to stock height in the rear and I actually have a tad bit of rake but not much. That is just with the rear springs and the 1” spacer in the front. I have not installed the front 1.5” springs or the falcon shocks yet. I can tell you it rides much better than it was. I felt like I was pulling a heavy trailer everywhere with me before with all the bounce and roll I had. Now it just feels close to stock…I can’t wait to see how much the shocks help on top of the Clayton springs. I might have to add a small spacer in the rear when I do the front 1.5” coils, we will see.
the picture here is with a loadout pretty much ready to go camping. 160 pound rack, 250 pound tent, fridge full of drinks without food at the moment, fridge slide, full 5# propane tank, 2 100 ah lifepo4 batteries, 2 rotopax full of water, a box full of recovery gear on the side, 35” spare underneath, 1 box with kitchen setup, 1 box with misc camp stuff, 1 box with chainsaw and tools, 1 box with hammocks and zero breeze attachments, zero breeze in the back seat, a pop up firepit, portable toilet setup, Starlink, camp lighting, and a full tank of gas.
While this is true for arms and bars and those parts, those shocks and springs absolutely have to compliment each other. If not you’ll have more of a Lurch than a Frankenstein.
Look forward to your report! I’ll report back as well once I get the coils on.
Sort of true, but not nearly as much as people think when it comes to off the shelf shocks. Companies like JKS sell their kits with a choice of off the shelf shocks from cheap to fox 2.0s to fox 2.5 elites... none of which are custom tuned. Clayton, metalcloak, and rock krawler do similar and allow the no shock options too. None of these kits have custom shock tuning, as you don't need it. You need shocks with appropriate travel for your lift and coils that don't unseat at full droop. Will you get custom tuned performance out of any kit or frankenlift? Of course not. Do you need it unless you're racing across the desert? Nope. Any quality aftermarket springs for the JL have similar spring rates anyway. Be it a proggresive, single rate, dual rate, or triple rate. In the actual ride zone on a JL they all ride and handle similarly and given the same shocks you'd be hard pressed to tell much of a diffrence. We've run synergy, rock krawler, metalcloak, and icon springs between the 2 JLs and the JT. I've got quite a bit of seat time in buddies rigs on AEV and Clayton springs. Outside of the HD springs, they all feel about the same. Ride comes down to shocks and tires/pressure more than anything else in my experience. Geometry plays a huge role too, which is why AEV gets all the praise on road (it's the drop brackets not some special spring and shock tuning). Make the geometry as good as you can and run quality shocks with any quality springs that give you the ride height you want and you're going to be very happy with the ride. Kit or frankenlift doesn't matter at all.
Assuming by block height you mean coil bind, none of them are hitting that before the bump stops anyway. No a larger wire spring cannot be softer than a smaller wire one unless the smaller wire one is into actual coil bind, which makes the spring rate effectively infinite as you cannot compress it further. You should have your bump stops set up to stop compression before that happens. The same infinite spring rate happens when your shocks bottom out, again to be avoided via bump stops. Spring rate at ride height is what most manufacturers publish as that is what matters 99% of the time. Driving around on the street you are typically only using 2-3" of suspension travel. The benefits of a dual or triple rate spring pretty much only come into play off road. Medium rate at ride height so it rides around nice on the road without flopping around like a fish. Light rate at full droop so it feels like landing on clouds when you take a crest at speed and get a little air with a nice downhill landing. Really high rate when approaching full bump to keep from slamming into the bump stops and aids the shocks in slowing the suspension movement before bottoming out. None of that really matters on the road. That's why the mojave internal bypass shocks ride so well on the street, they are in the ride zone where they are just firm enough. Lift it without shock extensions and the ride goes to shit. Load it up heavy so you are into the compression zone and they are so stiff you'll think you're hitting the bump stops just driving around. For non-bypass shocks it doesn't matter as they'll ride the same just about anywhere in the stroke as long as you aren't bottoming them out or fully extending them.
