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Anyone Install Mopar Cold Air Intake Yet?

ShadowsPapa

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Would I still get some benefit from the Mopar CAI even if I don’t do the hood vent?
What benefit do you think you are after?
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What benefit do you think you are after?
@ShadowsPapa Good question. My understanding is that CAI can help with improved MPG, HP and more of a lower throaty engine sound. No focused so much on the HP, but a little better MPG and engine sound is what I’m hoping for. Not expecting miracles but I’m wondering if I paid $525 for the factory build option and will not get much in return.
 

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I've read through several other threads talking about the cold air intake. Frankly, they all match personal experience - about all you will be likely to get is a nicer sound.
Don't look for higher MPG (although you'll have no basis to measure by since it will be installed on a new truck) and don't look for any HP gains in the range these engines typically run.
Normally the restrictions come at higher RPM, not what you see on the highway.
 

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Hey guys I have a 2022 Wrangler Rubicon on order and added the Mopar CAI to my build. I am trying to figure out how the side vent if cut into the hood helps. Is there a port/tube that runs from the hood vent to the air filter box? Or does the vent just add extra air to the engine compartment? Do you get any benefit if you do not cut out the side hood vent? Did you use the air filter that came with the Mopar CAI or get a different one? I apologize up front for my ignorance :) but I’m trying to learn. Thanks for your help!

Not sure if you are still active on here but reaching out.
@Russler @KurtP @Mr._Bill @Jeepmonster @El_Zorro
The hood vent allows for additional air, but also comes with a cover because it allows for water intrusion. The Mopar CAI will change the sound, but offers no measurable performance or MPG gains. It is a different top cover for the stock box, with a larger intake tube and washable air filter. I would order it separately, if you want the vent pieces. Otherwise, it doesn't really matter. There is a small air tube that runs from the front grill to underneath the air box opening. I have a light installed in that spot, so I didn't install the hood vent. I am also using the OEM paper filter instead of the washable filter. I like the look and the sound it offers.
 

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If you’re gonna do any do the Mishimoto one with actually dyno gains of 11 hp and 11lb of torque. The Mopar one isn’t shown to have any gains.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Independently tested in controlled environments? (meaning not by the company selling them)
And the gains are at what RPM?
 

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The hood vent allows for additional air, but also comes with a cover because it allows for water intrusion. The Mopar CAI will change the sound, but offers no measurable performance or MPG gains. It is a different top cover for the stock box, with a larger intake tube and washable air filter. I would order it separately, if you want the vent pieces. Otherwise, it doesn't really matter. There is a small air tube that runs from the front grill to underneath the air box opening. I have a light installed in that spot, so I didn't install the hood vent. I am also using the OEM paper filter instead of the washable filter. I like the look and the sound it offers.
Thanks for the info. I do appreciate it!
 
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@Russler This does help. I am by no means a mechanic or or car guru. I hate bothering people but I have searched forums and YouTube and not found info or images of how the hood vent connects to the intake. From what I understand with the factory order it does not come with the side vent cut out. I am so torn between wanting the benefit of the hood vent but not wanting to cut the hood and cut out part of the Rubicon hood decal. I wish the vent was at the corner cowl like the Rugged Ridge AmFib Low Mount Snorkel.
https://ruggedridge.com/p/rugged-ridge-amfib-snorkel/rgr-17756-35/

Would I still get some benefit from the Mopar CAI even if I don’t do the hood vent? From what I understand there is an air port from the front behind the grille to the CAI.
Thanks again.
@NJMAXX Sorry 5:45am here so these pictures are not great but I am hoping they help. The hood cutout has a hard plastic flange for lack of better words on the inside. You will then see the air intake portion of the kit that is mounted to the inside of the passenger fender well. The hood cut out also comes with a cover (not shown in the picture) so if you are worried about rain/water you can cover the intake hole. If/when you do this it would obviously be like not cutting the hole in your hood at all.

As for performance. IMO I did not gain nor lose any performance by installing this CAI kit. That means nothing for you as my setup is most likely completely different and the beauty of owning these damn things. My Rubi is a 6-speed manual, I am running heavy 37" rubber on 18" wheels, I have gone from 4:10 to 4:88 gears, I have installed the Mopar performance exhaust and I could go on and on. Back to my point....I do not think I see any performance difference with this installed. Power feels about the same (could be me being hopeful but I may have felt a little gain in low gear, high RPM ranges), gas mileage still sucks (I avg around 14.5mpg). I like how it looks as I have not seen another one in my area and coupled with the performance exhaust I like how it sounds.

More than happy to crank up a quick facetime/video call and let you see/hear it if that will help. Shoot me a PM and I will send you my number.

Jeep Gladiator Anyone Install Mopar Cold Air Intake Yet? Screen Shot 2022-03-19 at 5.49.54 AM


Jeep Gladiator Anyone Install Mopar Cold Air Intake Yet? Screen Shot 2022-03-19 at 5.50.12 AM
 

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Hey guys I have a 2022 Wrangler Rubicon on order and added the Mopar CAI to my build. I am trying to figure out how the side vent if cut into the hood helps. Is there a port/tube that runs from the hood vent to the air filter box? Or does the vent just add extra air to the engine compartment? Do you get any benefit if you do not cut out the side hood vent? Did you use the air filter that came with the Mopar CAI or get a different one? I apologize up front for my ignorance :) but I’m trying to learn. Thanks for your help!

Not sure if you are still active on here but reaching out.
@Russler @KurtP @Mr._Bill @Jeepmonster @El_Zorro
Check this video out. It is part two of two. Part one is the CAI box install. This is hood vent install.

Mopar Cold Air Intake Jeep JL part 2: Cutting hood vent - YouTube
 

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I have 2 Gladiators. I got them about a week apart. The Rubicon came with the factory installed CAI. The Overland had (and still has) the stock system. No cutout in the hood of the Rubicon so I am thinking the vent on the hood isn't needed.

I did notice that the Overland has better gas mileage recorded over time. The Rubicon is clocking about 16 miles per gallon, the Overland is at 18.6 or thereabouts. Granted, I have take the Rubicon out on a few runs off road. The Overland has only been on desert dirt roads. I do notice the Rubicon has a bit more pep when I mash the throttle....
Overland better fuel economy - taller gears, less weight, street tires.

Rubicon more "pep" - 4.11 gears. More intake noise gives the perception of power.
 

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dcmdon

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Bought my ‘21 off the lot and it had the Mopar CAI. I couldn’t figure out why the ‘21 was getting less MPGs than my ‘20 that I traded. I removed the high flow Mopar filter and replaced it with a WIX. I’ll be damned if MPG hasn’t improved by 1 MPG.
This is not possible. A better flowing filter won't improve fuel economy. Remember that 99% of the time you have a throttle plate actively blocking most of your intake. The only time any kind of flow improvement makes any difference is at full throttle, when the throttle plate isn't blocking the intake anymore.

If your filter flows better then you will just need less throttle angle to make a given amount of power. Fuel is metered based on the actual air in the system.

The manifold pressure at the intake valve is what it is. It doesn't matter to the engine whether that pressure is achieved with a wide open throttle and a poor flowing filter or a great flowing filter at partial throttle.
 

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If you’re gonna do any do the Mishimoto one with actually dyno gains of 11 hp and 11lb of torque. The Mopar one isn’t shown to have any gains.
Again, your engine spends 99% of the time with the throttle plate blocking most of the intake.

If we even assume this number is true, remember that that 11 hp number occurs only at full throttle and at roughly 6000 rpm. At all other times, the benefit is none to little.


I know lots of people are going to try to justify their purchase. But honestly CAIs fall into the bling category. They do little other than make your motor sound better. If you accept that, then go for it.

If you want to pay the money for a 2 hp gain at full throttle at 3000 rpm, 5 hp gain at 4000 rpm, 7 hp gain at 5000 rpm and 10 hp at 6000 then go for it.

Again, how much time do you spend with your foot on the floor? Because other than at high rpm with the throttle mashed to the floor, even the best CAI makes ZERO difference. (because the throttle is blocking the intake by design)

Independently tested in controlled environments? (meaning not by the company selling them)
And the gains are at what RPM?
Don't be introducing logic and scientific methodology into this whole process. ;-)
 

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I have one, it is for looks and sound level mostly, when pulling a load up a hill it seems to have more power but that is probably me just justifying the cost, when I say looks ,it opens up the area under hood a lot as every resonator box is gone,
i run the high performance dry filter that came in the kit, I do not see the benift of cutting the hood as the Mopar fender air intake is not sucking in engine compartment air and there is already a opening in grill to let some outside air in. My stock Mojave for short trips in hilly area I'm in gets 17.5 around town and 22 highway. The intake tube is huge, and the baffles in airbox are removed and box is much larger, the throttle body can be replaced with a modified larger one, but not sure that is worth it......Jack
 

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Again, your engine spends 99% of the time with the throttle plate blocking most of the intake.

If we even assume this number is true, remember that that 11 hp number occurs only at full throttle and at roughly 6000 rpm. At all other times, the benefit is none to little.


I know lots of people are going to try to justify their purchase. But honestly CAIs fall into the bling category. They do little other than make your motor sound better. If you accept that, then go for it.

If you want to pay the money for a 2 hp gain at full throttle at 3000 rpm, 5 hp gain at 4000 rpm, 7 hp gain at 5000 rpm and 10 hp at 6000 then go for it.

Again, how much time do you spend with your foot on the floor? Because other than at high rpm with the throttle mashed to the floor, even the best CAI makes ZERO difference. (because the throttle is blocking the intake by design)



Don't be introducing logic and scientific methodology into this whole process. ;-)
LOL - yeah, I find it interesting that - well, no, based on past experiences, I wasn't surprised by someone believing those crazy claims of 10 or 11.
I can provide anecdotal information or "evidence" of extremely minor gains compared to cold air intake vs. intake from directly under the hood of a 401 v8 but then you can't compare that either because the Jeep Gladiator to begin with doesn't pull air from the hottest area of the engine bay. A friend raced a 401 powered Ambassador - a boat of a car. He made a cold air intake and took air from the very front of the car by converting the headlight buckets into air scoops and ducted it to the carburetor. He saw a gain - of a couple of tenths of a second in the quarter mile. Are you going to feel that? Naw, and we're talking 401 cubic inches on a carbureted engine running much of the time at WOT.
Since these trucks pull air from the right front corner where the air isn't exactly its hottest already, you aren't changing that much.
Any gains also won't be instant as Dave and Kurt and others have said over and over - it takes time for things to adapt - long term fuel trim, etc. So you can't say "I put it on and felt instant power" and any "dyno tests" by the company selling such things isn't going to take that into account.
Many things can impact economy - those who claim a gain - at what mileage did they install the CAI? If at say 5,000 miles, then any gain is most likely due to the natural gain we all see as our trucks wear and learn. Only if you installed one at 10,000 miles or more can you all but discount the gain as being from wearing in and the natural processes. Mine took a fair jump after 7,000 miles on the odometer - no changes to anything.

I've also noted after having this thing for over 2 years now - mine gets WORSE mpg when the air is under 50 degrees ambient temp. Our temperatures here can swing from 20 degrees to 60 degrees in a matter of a morning. Heck, we went from freezing to 70 the other day in a matter of a few hours. I could tell the truck was actually doing better as the day went on and the air warmed up. That's counter to my experiences with carbureted, non-computer-controlled engines.
The fly in that ointment is that my 4.0 does a lot better with air between about 40 to 50 degrees and you can actually truly feel it run nicer.

Because of the need to get all of the power and mpg they can possibly squeeze out of these things right out of the gate, meaning every fraction of a mpg, and every additional HP is not just good marketing, but also good for the EPA's eyes, it's hard to imagine they'd leave 10 hp on the table with such a simple change. YES, there's the noise and vibration and harmonics stuff, but still.... most trucks are actually more loud than the Jeep Gladiator, IMO. I can hear other trucks at the stop light over my own truck noise and the intake on these is crazy quiet - they could add some muscle to the intake sound and not lose buyers or violate any municipal codes.

Anyway, marketing dyno tests, IMO, are at least part BS.
Any true dyno testing for determining small gains have to include time - for the system to learn and adjust, be done at the exact same engine temperatures, coolant temperatures, humidity levels, barometric pressures, and more. That's my opinion, obviously those who have bought these will say I'm full of crap and some will say that just because it's me.
 

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Again, your engine spends 99% of the time with the throttle plate blocking most of the intake.

If we even assume this number is true, remember that that 11 hp number occurs only at full throttle and at roughly 6000 rpm. At all other times, the benefit is none to little.


I know lots of people are going to try to justify their purchase. But honestly CAIs fall into the bling category. They do little other than make your motor sound better. If you accept that, then go for it.

If you want to pay the money for a 2 hp gain at full throttle at 3000 rpm, 5 hp gain at 4000 rpm, 7 hp gain at 5000 rpm and 10 hp at 6000 then go for it.

Again, how much time do you spend with your foot on the floor? Because other than at high rpm with the throttle mashed to the floor, even the best CAI makes ZERO difference. (because the throttle is blocking the intake by design)



Don't be introducing logic and scientific methodology into this whole process. ;-)
I’d honestly only get one for better sound with an aftermarket exhaust. I don’t think it’s a 6,000, think it’s 4800 but regardless you’re right, none of the time are any of us gonna be on the throttle like that on a consistent basis to see any real gains.
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